Wide band sensor?

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U can put the sensor anywhere along the pipe as it is self heating and adjust accordingly. But if ur carbed anyway, u don't need the factory 02 bungs as jr stated. Be sure to use the drivers side as its the one the runs leaner typically.
 
U can put the sensor anywhere along the pipe as it is self heating and adjust accordingly. But if ur carbed anyway, u don't need the factory 02 bungs as jr stated. Be sure to use the drivers side as its the one the runs leaner typically.
Thanks ,thats another thing i was interested in,i figured with 2 banks of cylinders,which side to put it on.My x pipe does have bungs on it ,i will pop it in the drivers side then.Thanks again.
 
The correct placement for a wide band O2 sensor is approx 4-6" after the collector on your manifold....which is a little before, or right around the area of the stock O2 sensor placement on the stock mid-pipe. Under no circumstances should it be placed after the catylectic converter. Your readings will be skewed if so.

This was the advice given to my by the tech guy at Innovate Motorsports Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Tuning, one of the indusrty leading companies in Wide Band tuning.
 
I was looking at the LM-1 but see alot of mixed reviews,do you have that one?

I have the LC-1 and it worked great. That was until I broke some random wire off under the dash and am getting an error code now. I just haven't had the time to crawl back under there and check it out....and since I dyno tuned my car afterwards, it really hasn't phased me.

If I could do it over again, I would have gone with the LM-1. Unless you need the system permanently installed and like driving around with a lap top and a mess of wires on your front seat when you're doing your tuning runs, the LM-1 is a lot simpler and more convenient to use.
 
I had a lc-1 (I think) and it was a clean install. Only one wire hook up to a lap top. Had a guage in the a pillar to monitor a/f. Overall, a pain to wire in but worked like a charm. Wish I would of kept it and put in the new car.
 
No need to hook up to a laptop(maybe 1 day if i go over to injection)I bought the car carbd 2 yrs ago and havent had to touch it yet whether its 30 degrees or 100 degrees,runs good all year round.BUT since i have gone to the track i was bitten by the race bug and want to sqweek a little moe out of it before dumping some money into the engine.And want to try some jetting and timing adjustments out.I would like to just hit a 12 something.I ran a 13.4 @104.3 granny shifting on street tires.I know i should get tires but i dont wanna break stuff mainly because its a weekend/street car........................................for now.LOL
 
Think I paid 300 with a guage for the a pillar. And it was an lc-1. The wiring instructions could of been better but I got through it easy. Just keep it all labeled and solder it together once its ran perfectly. Find a safe spot to mount the "brain" under the hood. I made a alum bracket and mounted it to the firewall so the o2 sensor would reach the pipe.
 
Did urs have the one wire hook up to ur lap top? I never data logged mine and was just curious as to how easy it was to use. Seems the one wire hook up would be too good to be true. I had mine hidden behind the console for easy access. But just tuned at the track off of my guage. I did notice the guage jumped around a bit. Could of been my tune or something as my motor let go at the track b/c of a faulty part, but I think data logging would be the easiest way. This was an auto car so real easy to watch the guage, a 5 speed would of been a bit more difficult.
 
Mine was a real PITA because I didn't have the right plug adapter on my laptop for the cord the supplied, so I had to get another cord, with a USB adapter along with the program to run it added to the mix. My front seat looked like Frankenstein’s monster by the time it was all said and done.

All I needed to see was a pop up graphic on my screen saying “Danger to Manifold” and I would have been all set. :D