WideBand O2 Reads 16.5 - 17.5 at WOT. IS THIS RIGHT???????

[ARMAGEDON]

I just installed the Innovate Wideband O2, 3844 MTX-L.

At idle it reads around 14.5. At WOT it reads 16.5 to 17.5.


At those numbers. I figure the pistons would be melting.

I have had the car about two years and have put about 500 miles on it. Occasionally at WOT, once into it, the engine sometimes seems to stutter a little. Maybe that was pinging, I don't know. Then I back off.

I always run 93 octane w/ half a bottle of 104 octane booster.

I have full exhaust and put the O2 sensor in the mid pipe before the X, no cats.

I believe the timing is around 10*, based on what the previous owner indicated. He said he kept it running pretty fat for safety. I don't have a fuel gauge to check.

The black & white wires are on a good ground. The power wire is fed directly into a 15 amp fuse.


The super charger currently has a 6 lbs. pulley on it.

The car idles great, runs strong and pulls like a beast. It feels like all of 400 hp at the wheels. I've been in a few.

Can I really be that lean? Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Questions:

Calibration was done per directions.

No Tune on car.

No FMU, it has 30 lbs. injectors.

The gauge and O2 sensor are brand new. One week old.

The 02 sensor is mounted exactly 36" down from the header collector, before the connection to the X-pipe. I have 1 5/8" shorties.

The below link will show the O2 location.

O2 Bung pictures from mustangs photos on webshots

 

[Noobz347]

No, it's not accurate. At 17.5, I doubt seriously that the car would run at all.

Did you calibrate the new sensor or just hook it all up, start the motor and head down the road?

 

[ARMAGEDON]

No, it's not accurate. At 17.5, I doubt seriously that the car would run at all.

Did you calibrate the new sensor or just hook it all up, start the motor and head down the road?

Yes, I calibrated just like the directions said.

 

[90lxcoupe]

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Yea, stop driving it till you figure it out. Also, quit wasting your money on the octane booster. That car should be able to run safe on just pump gas alone

Does it have a tune in it? if so who tuned it, does it use an FMU?

 

[Noobz347]

... and where is the sensor mounted exactly?

 

[7upstang91]

Yes, I calibrated just like the directions said.

Is it brand new?

Yea, stop driving it till you figure it out. Also, quit wasting your money on the octane booster. That car should be able to run safe on just pump gas alone

Does it have a tune in it? if so who tuned it, does it use an FMU?

This.

... and where is the sensor mounted exactly?

Great question! I want to know the answer too.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

Yea, stop driving it till you figure it out. Also, quit wasting your money on the octane booster. That car should be able to run safe on just pump gas alone

Does it have a tune in it? if so who tuned it, does it use an FMU?

No tune. No FMU.

It has 30 lbs. injectors.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

... and where is the sensor mounted exactly?

The 02 sensor is mounted exactly 36" down from the header collector, before the connection to the X-pipe. I have 1 5/8" shorties.

 

[87AODGT]

no tune, no FMU and a blower? case closed, go get the damn thing tuned

 

[ARMAGEDON]

no tune, no FMU and a blower? case closed, go get the damn thing tuned

Does anyone know of a good Mustang tuner in the Dayton, OH or Columbus, OH area?

Work has me pretty busy. I was hoping the O2 would help me tune it or at least point me in the right direction.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

The sensor should be next to the o2 sensor..you should be down around 12-13 at wot. The car will run at 17 as long as it's just at cruise.. You want it at 15-16 at cruise it will save you gas.. Won't hurt your motor at all. My car has been tuned and runs around 16 at a cruise and 12.5 at wot.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

Also if your o2 sensors are too far away from the heads it might give you a wacky reading because the o2s aren't hot enough..if you have shorty headers the o2 and wideband o2 should be right past the header collector. Fmu is the easy way out. I have a quarterhorse on my car and had someone from eectuning.org tune mine via Internet and phone.. Worked out pretty good..quarterhorse=250$.. binary editor=80$...innovate lc-1=180$..someone to tune my car=100$... it was worth every penny...and you will learn more about how the computer works if you ask questions.. It was worth the money.. Even if I gained 0 hp it was worth it.. The car runs much smoother and makes it more fun to drive..

 

[90stang5speed]

just a quick note about octane boosters. I used to work for autozone and to better answer the question that customers had about which booster was best, I called the manufacture of the NOS brand. This is what I learned. The industry standard is to use 91 octane fuel. there are octane points & octane numbers. Those that say they raise octane 8 points means you go from at best 91 to 91.8 octane. Big deal right. If you start with 93 octane you have gained absolutely nothing & wasted your money. If you use the NOS brand, you get 60 pts or 6 octane numbers. 10 pts to the number. you can go from 91 to 97 octane with that. If you start with 93, the best you will get is still only 97. is it worth it? That's up to you.

As for you being so lean at WOT, I'm not a pro tuner but, I had an issue like that where it would idle & cruise fine but lean out at WOT. What it was for me was a clogged intake screen on the pump. I suspected that the stock pump was not able to keep up so I was going to upgrade anyway & when I dropped the tank, I found the clogged pump screen.

I use the TWEECER RT. someone else recommended the Qt horse. I would look into getting either one of those. Hope that helps.

 

[90lxcoupe]

When i had my blower i had a 255 in the tank, and a external procharger pump with 42 lb injectors. You may need more fuel.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

just a quick note about octane boosters. I used to work for autozone and to better answer the question that customers had about which booster was best, I called the manufacture of the NOS brand. This is what I learned. The industry standard is to use 91 octane fuel. there are octane points & octane numbers. Those that say they raise octane 8 points means you go from at best 91 to 91.8 octane. Big deal right. If you start with 93 octane you have gained absolutely nothing & wasted your money. If you use the NOS brand, you get 60 pts or 6 octane numbers. 10 pts to the number. you can go from 91 to 97 octane with that. If you start with 93, the best you will get is still only 97. is it worth it? That's up to you.

As for you being so lean at WOT, I'm not a pro tuner but, I had an issue like that where it would idle & cruise fine but lean out at WOT. What it was for me was a clogged intake screen on the pump. I suspected that the stock pump was not able to keep up so I was going to upgrade anyway & when I dropped the tank, I found the clogged pump screen.

I use the TWEECER RT. someone else recommended the Qt horse. I would look into getting either one of those. Hope that helps.

Great point on the Oct. Boost. I think I may have been hood winked by the advertising. I thought the number on the bottle were whole points not tenths of a point. I think I've been ripped off.

The screen is a good point. If the gauge is working correctly, I am definately not getting enough fuel at wot.

I agree a tweecer or a tune is in order.

Do you think if I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator for more fuel, it may fix the issue? There is no gauge on it. Other than watching the wideband numbers I wouldn't know.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

When i had my blower i had a 255 in the tank, and a external procharger pump with 42 lb injectors. You may need more fuel.

That may be the issue. If I stayed w/ the 255 in tank for now and didn't get the ext pump yet, but did drop in 42 lbs. injectors, do think the extra flow may solve the upper end fuel issue?

I do have an adj. fuel reg. no gauge on it. Should I adj. it up more, if it can?

 

[TokyoJoe]

if you are going to want to tune it yourself get the right tools. You completed the first step with the wideband but without anything additional i.e. fuel pressure gauge, tuning software there isnt much else that gauge will do for you except tell you when to back out of it. You want closer to 11.5 12 afr for boosted apps.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

if you are going to want to tune it yourself get the right tools. You completed the first step with the wideband but without anything additional i.e. fuel pressure gauge, tuning software there isnt much else that gauge will do for you except tell you when to back out of it. You want closer to 11.5 12 afr for boosted apps.

Yes, good point. This is my first supercharged car. Tuning it myself may be over my head.

 

[Kdubslugga]

30lbers is not enough for boost, although with only 6 psi your a bit safer than most. There are no reputable tuners in Ohio, which is why I tow my car 8 hrs to Anderson Ford for a tune!

 

[281pony]

i realize this is your first supercharged car, however someone needs to slap you with reality. i'm on my first supercharged foxbody, you need to READ and have more knowledge of what is going on BEFORE you are where your at now.

running a blower car, with that small of injectors, no fmu, no tune, and boosting it PERIOD is stupid. let alone more then once, while feeling a miss or detonation. your lucky it hasnt blown up already dude.

you need a good tune. if the car is making 400whp, 42# injectors will support that. bigger injectors could cure the lean issue up top because they can keep up with the fuel demand. HOWEVER, you STILL need a tune.

a good 255 in-tank, ie; walbro gss-340 will support the power without an inline. 42# injectors will work for you also. just get the car tuned with the proper components. it isin't cheap, but it will cost alot more when your adding a new engine to the equation.