Bladez5_0 said:You need to pull a vacuum on the system because the refrigerant cycle is based on pressure. If it's not vacuumed out it will work but it will not work as well as it should. You also need to get any moisture/debris (like dust or possible creepy crawlies) out of the system so that it doesn't eat the compressor up or clog the orifice on the expansion valve. You also need to get the R12 oil out of the system since it doesn't mix with the R134 correctly and can lead to compressor failure due to lack of oil. My A/C pulls about 50 degrees since the conversion.
Nope.GearHd6 said:I guess thats about the norm for the conversion then?
PuterAmI said:Nope.
I get them colder than that.
Both of mine I have at 42 degrees on a 93 ambient.
jrichker said:If you remove the A/C compressor, when you re-install it, you will need to flush the system and install a a new accumulator/dryer (aluminum canister mounted on the firewall). The accumulator/dryer is about $75 last time I checked. The system will need to be vacuumed down & recharged with R134.
GearHd6 said:I never vacuumed it...
Here's a cheap solution, maybe cheaper than paying to have it done. My current vacuum pump is a refrigerator hermetic unit (motor & compressor in one unit). It was a freebe from a local used appliance store. I bolted it down to a piece of plywood & soldered a 1/4" flare fitting on the suction line. It works great, pulls 29" of vacuum in about 10 minutes or less. I have used it several times and have had excellent results.pb_paulie_b said:Compressing air leads to heat. Find a guy that does residential A/C and heating. They normally have the vacuum you need on their truck and save the dough you were gonna pay a shop to do it.
The vacuum removes the air & moisture. The air trapped in a system displaces refrigerant. That means you can't get a full charge of refrigerant in the system without exceeding the safety spec for max head pressure. Not only that, but the A/C process depends on expanding a hot liquid into a cold gas. Air will not compress enough to liquify in an auto A/C system.ALMOST STOCK said:I’m assuming (and we all know what that means) that the reason you need to pull a vacuum is because this is the only way to remove refrigerant and oil when the compressor is in it’s normal position but if it were out of the car and draining for 2 yrs would you really have to pull a vacuum?
I’m no AC expert and I’m not claiming to be believe me, but if 9 Deuce GT is going to have his compressor out of the car for possibly 2 yrs why couldn’t he just put some caps on the discharge and suction ends of the compressor to keep out any contaminates out, prop the compressor so that the old oil and refrigerant would drain toward the caps.
Then every once and awhile when he thinks about it in the next 2 yrs turn the clutch pulley a couple of turns and then remove the old accumulated oil and refrigerant that has collect at the caps?
jrichker said:Here's a cheap solution, maybe cheaper than paying to have it done. My current vacuum pump is a refrigerator hermetic unit (motor & compressor in one unit).
Bladez5_0 said:...he would still need to vacuum out the system due to the remaining refrigerant and oil in the system. ...
Either read jrichker's writeup, or see mine where I describe how to flush and convert.65ShelbyClone said:What is required to do a flush? Both of my cars are going to get 134a and I want to do the conversion right the first time.
Yes. They are called "alternative refrigerants".65ShelbyClone said:Also, aren't there refrigerants other than R12 and 134a that could be used in automotive systems?
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