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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Window Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kilgore Trout
  • Start date Start date Oct 25, 2006
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DTNODYA

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Dec 15, 2005
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#41
  • Nov 1, 2006
  • #41
Thanks for taking the time to write all that up in case any of us ever have to do it.

That is a big effing rivet gun!! I gotta go to Harbor Freight tomorrow and scoop one up.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#42
  • Nov 2, 2006
  • #42
Hey no problem

It is not that bad of a job really if you take your time and pay close attention to how it all comes apart and goes together.
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
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Jan 26, 1999
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Nov 2, 2006
#43
  • Nov 2, 2006
  • #43
Killy... Did it snap the spring off like that with the motor still on the regulator?
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#44
  • Nov 2, 2006
  • #44
Yes, the motor was connected at all times, the gear piece pictured above fell off and then the spring tension was no longer "held" by the worm gear on the motor so the regulator was all over the place inside the door. I threw some zip ties on it to try and restrain it but the thing was crazy especially when I released the mounting bolts, it sprung inside the door with enough force that I thought there could be some exterior body damage... But there wasn't
 

DTNODYA

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Dec 15, 2005
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Nov 2, 2006
#45
  • Nov 2, 2006
  • #45
Hey Killz, do you happen to have a picture in your arsenal of the door handle from the inside? Also, how did you put the plastic deal back on? Did you spray it with some adhesive stuff or just stick it on?
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#46
  • Nov 2, 2006
  • #46
I used 3M blue painters tape to hold the water splash guard on the door before reinstalling the trim panel

I am going to go back in there with some 3M spray adhesive though like was suggested above in the thread. I will do that when I go in to vacuum out the door like I should have done in the first place...

I do not have the picture you requested, sorry...
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#47
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #47
Kilgore Trout said:
I used 3M blue painters tape to hold the water splash guard on the door before reinstalling the trim panel

I am going to go back in there with some 3M spray adhesive though like was suggested above in the thread. I will do that when I go in to vacuum out the door like I should have done in the first place...

I do not have the picture you requested, sorry...
Click to expand...
Update: I traded the car for a Cobra so the blue painters tape is still in there. That will be a funny surprise for someone someday
 

DTNODYA

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Dec 15, 2005
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#48
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #48
Kilgore Trout said:
Update: I traded the car for a Cobra so the blue painters tape is still in there. That will be a funny surprise for someone someday
Click to expand...

U ever get whatever is wrong with your new car fixed? Something leaking in the front or something ...???
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#49
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #49
Yes the Cobra is all better now
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
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Nov 15, 2006
#50
  • Nov 15, 2006
  • #50
tape in there is more common than you might think.
 
A

architecthec

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Jul 31, 2006
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Nov 16, 2006
#51
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #51
If it is the motor, I changed out the window motor on my 94 GT and was as simple as, take the door panel off, take the speaker out and then the three bolts for the motor and pull the motor out thru the speaker hole. I thought I had to take the window glass out and after loosing that fight (and almost the glass) I decided what the hell I'll take the motor out and see what happens. I feared tension or spring loaded regulator would be a problem ( like the older fox body) The motor came out and went back easy as pie. I did not mess with the regulator.
I think I paid $60 for the motor. Take the you old one with you because the parts guy said Ford was notorious about mixing left and right.
Good Luck.
 

dastang2

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#52
  • Mar 21, 2007
  • #52
i got a problem. the window came off the regulator mounts. i opened it up and found that the window had been attatched to the mounts by silicon. before it broke, the window would rattle when the door was shut. how does the reg. mount to the window.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#53
  • Mar 21, 2007
  • #53
Bad news man, you need a new window. You could try epoxy but I doubt it would be anything but a temp fix.

A metal rail is glued to the bottom of the window. The window regulator is riveted to this metal rail. Sounds like your rail has come loose from the glass. This is known to happen and like I said the best fix is to replace the whole window glass assembly.

I believe that it is important to keep the inner and outer window seals the the glass passes between as it goes up and down well lubricated to avoid your issue and many other window related issues such as not going up/down and squealing. All it takes is some silicone spray 1-2 times per year to keep them lubricated... Preventative maintenance FTMFW

Good luck.
 

dastang2

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Mar 21, 2007
#54
  • Mar 21, 2007
  • #54
so are you saying that it needs a regulator and window. apparently it did this before because the previous owner had already replaced the rivets with bolts and siliconed the window with rtv. i tried window caulking but it didn't even hold enough to get the window back in which is a bitch. i was thinking an easier and maybe cheaper fix would be to go to the junkyard and get another door. the windows on the car have a mustang logo and pinstripe on the lower part of the window so that is going to cost more. i have an extended warranty, would this be covered even though somebody else tried to fix it. i doubt it.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#55
  • Mar 21, 2007
  • #55
You only need a new window the regulator should be fine based on what you have described. I would try to get Ford to fix it under warranty, its worth a shot... If you DIY use the proper rivets not bolts.
 

dastang2

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Mar 21, 2007
#56
  • Mar 21, 2007
  • #56
oh and when the window was down before this happened, it would rattle when the door was shut. what is this. this is a convertable. my warranty has a deductable. i have to pay for them to look at it and if it is covered i get my money back but if not covered, they keep the money. this is why i think it will be cheaper for me th just fix it myself.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#57
  • Mar 21, 2007
  • #57
The reason the window rattled when down is probably that when the previous person did that half azz repair they did not properly adjust the window alignment guides to keep the window in its proper place. These guides have to be removed to perform the work and then re-installed PROPERLY for the window to not rattle. It sounds more complicated than it is. I am sure you can fix this yourself.
 

dastang2

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Mar 22, 2007
#58
  • Mar 22, 2007
  • #58
ok i know what you are talking about now, thanks.
 

dastang2

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Mar 22, 2007
#59
  • Mar 22, 2007
  • #59
ok i got the window in and i tried to adjust it a little because that was a small gap between the quarter window and the door window. now i can't get the window down because it is going down crooked. i adjust the track with a torx wrench. can i get some help thanks.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

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#60
  • Mar 22, 2007
  • #60
Can you post a pic of where you are adjusting it? The adjusters I was talking about are felt covered pieces of metal that push against the inside of the window and keep it firm against the outer weather strip. They kinda slide up and down to push less/more...
 
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