Window Trim?

I have just the ticket! I love old Ford shop manuals (I have many) check it out! I could not find the shot of the door but it is much like the quarter window. Remove the inner door panel and door glass and the trim un-screws from the back. People on the forum reported that tremclad works well. I used an expensive paint made to paint chrome trim from an auto body supply house, It sucked

why in the world would you start a project like that 2 weeks before a show?
the time/labor involved is more than 2 weeks work..especially if the car has been repainted without taking the trim off, it also gets pretty ugly under there
with all the debris and trapped water your guaranteed to see some rust
around the edges.
the doors are the worst because after the door panel comes off, the window
comes out, you still have the door glass weatherstrips to take off, which are
usually rotted (these pieces are metal where they mount to the door)
and share the same screws as the outer trim so they have to come off.
you can get them in a set of 4 from mustangs unlimited i think i paid
$30 for them.. and this is all for a single 3ft piece of straight door trim..
i personally would rather do the quarter windows then that damn door,
remove the interior quarter panels, revove 10 sm. screws and the quarter window pops out and behind that are the 4 screws that hold the trim in..
the windshield trim is easy to pop off as is the hatch trim..
its just not worth the stress to rush a job like this, its time consuming.
if you dont have a 40 hr job then go for it
if you work 50+ a week like i do then i suggest waiting till after your show..
either way good luck!
oh if you do decide to do this .. you will need to get extra trim retaining clips
available at any glass company, windshield/glass installers, or parts store.

My II cents...the door glass does not have to come out to remove the belt molding, just remove the lower stop and roll it all the way down. It'll go far enough to access the screws.

In my experience, the lower quarter glass moldings will be the problem. Many times the screws are seriously rusted into the sheetmetal, and that's on TX/OK cars, I can only imagine what it must be like for cars up north.

Use caution on the drip rail moldings, the clips are long obsolete, even from sources like Auveco.

BTW, the moldings (if they were originally black) were simply painted black over a standard bright anodized molding. Not sure why they weren't black anodized, other than long term durability issues.

2 weeks should be enough time if you have a free weekend and a few hours in the evenings, unfortunately in my case, the 2 rugrats tend to work against getting anything done in a timely fashion.

I took my car down to the shell when it was painted and me with help? from the short guy that looks like me, got it back togeather in a week-end. We put all trim and lights back in. We put the door and quarter glass back in also. We left the hatch glass and windshield to the experts. The glass place ordered up all new hardware from their own sourse. They ordered all the clips and came to my garage to install it.
It felt strange because I did or at least watched every aspect of the II restoration. I just gave the glass guy the key to the garage. When I got home it was done. Like a visit from the auto glass fairy I was running low on sick days from work because I watched the painter paint it and the machine shop dude machine the block, and the transmission dude rebuild the transmission and rear pumpkin.