The other night I was going to take my car out for a little ride in the dark, when I started the car I noticed it was dark inside the cabin and different looking on the outside, turns out my park lights wasnt on nor was my gauge lights for the stock cluster and the two aftermarket gauges I have. If you take a wire from where the aftermarket gauge lights are tapped and hook it straight to the battery, all the lights will come on. If they come on when wired straight and wont when they are wired up correctly, what could be the problem? Fuse? Headlight switch? What fuse controls the park lights and dash lights and all that jazz? Thanks
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- Thread starter 92GreenGT
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See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
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Dave, take a closer look at the info JRichker posted. The fusebox diagram shows the light-feed fusible link, and the 3rd link from the top (for one) shows the pathway for that link to fuse 4.
Physically, the links are right off of the starter solenoid (that mess of wiring on the battery lug of the solenoid).
I think JR might be onto something - when something goes wrong, sometimes people rewire things funny. The circuit is very simple on the feed side, and you could redo it altogether if need be.
Good luck bud.
Physically, the links are right off of the starter solenoid (that mess of wiring on the battery lug of the solenoid).
I think JR might be onto something - when something goes wrong, sometimes people rewire things funny. The circuit is very simple on the feed side, and you could redo it altogether if need be.
Good luck bud.
Look at the fuselink near the battery. They come off the main power wire (yellow) after the silenoid. Breaks into 4 wires after a round rubber fuselink looking splitter type deal. Look at your fuselinks, one of mine was corroded and $hit on me. I look at the area 4 times before i actually could see what was wrong. My headlights/dash lights/interior lights, but pass to flash and everything else worked fine. Check out those, if not maybe a rodent got in your dash and chewed up some wires. See if you have power going to your fusebox, then you'll know if the problem if before or after it. 
Have you looked at the light switch itself? The same terminal closes in the switch for parking and instrument lights.92GreenGT said:
A meter or test light will show you real quick if the switch is closing that position in the switch. On my '88, the parking light wire is brown under the dash, but I cant remember if it is still brown at the switch itself.
Good luck.
Saleen0679
10 Year Member
I went out today and replace fuse #4, and still got nothing. I tried a few different fuses and none of them made anything change. So I guess its safe to say that isnt it.
About the actual switch itsself, how do you get the headlights switch out so you can test it? I've never removed a headlight switch before.
Also, I looked at the yellow wire coming off the starter soleniod this morning, is the fuse link the black rubber circle on the wire? If so, do you just pull that rubber back and it will expose the fuse?
Thanks, narrowing it down one at a time.
About the actual switch itsself, how do you get the headlights switch out so you can test it? I've never removed a headlight switch before.
Also, I looked at the yellow wire coming off the starter soleniod this morning, is the fuse link the black rubber circle on the wire? If so, do you just pull that rubber back and it will expose the fuse?
Thanks, narrowing it down one at a time.
Saleen0679
10 Year Member
To remove the headlight switch you have to depress the two locking tabs located on the side of the switch while wiggling the switch out. Be careful of the wires when you pull since they are not long. You can then disconnect the connectors from the back of the switch.
The fusible links connected to the yellow wire are spliced in a few inches down. There should be three or four links clearly visible. Damage to the links is not always visible so you have to feel and flex the wires in addition to the visual inspection. You can take a meter to them if you don't find anything obvious.
The fusible links connected to the yellow wire are spliced in a few inches down. There should be three or four links clearly visible. Damage to the links is not always visible so you have to feel and flex the wires in addition to the visual inspection. You can take a meter to them if you don't find anything obvious.
There is a small tab on the side of the headlight switch that one can depress with a screwdriver to allow the light switch to pop out. It's been a long time since I did one so I dont remember more.
For the link, grope it and see if it feels rubbery or spongy. You can put a voltmeter on each side of it and see if you have juice in and out (a link can partially burn and still pass voltage though). Or pull fuse 4 and put your meter or test light in the tangs in the fuse slot. If your meter shows 12 volts in one socket/tang, you have juice making it to the fuse.
Good luck.
EDIT: Saleen beat me to the punch.
For the link, grope it and see if it feels rubbery or spongy. You can put a voltmeter on each side of it and see if you have juice in and out (a link can partially burn and still pass voltage though). Or pull fuse 4 and put your meter or test light in the tangs in the fuse slot. If your meter shows 12 volts in one socket/tang, you have juice making it to the fuse.
Good luck.
EDIT: Saleen beat me to the punch.
Saleen0679
10 Year Member
If you have voltage at the R/Y then you should have voltage at the BlacK/Orange. Don't know about any Red/Orange wires. Do you have a Tan/White and Brown wires?
Double check for voltage at the Tan/White and the Brown with the lights on.
Another check you can do if you have the switch out is to check the resistance between terminals B2 & R (should be the middle two terminals) on the switch and see if the switch opens and closes the way it should.
Double check for voltage at the Tan/White and the Brown with the lights on.
Another check you can do if you have the switch out is to check the resistance between terminals B2 & R (should be the middle two terminals) on the switch and see if the switch opens and closes the way it should.
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