Wiring Guys. Hissin? Daggar? Anyone?

You will use the ECT for the Spal controller (unless you purchased their proprietary sensor).
Do not use the stock gauge 'sender' or the autometer gauge's sender for anything but the complimentary gauge (AM sender = AM gauge. Stock sender = stock gauge. No mix and match either).

For a switched (accessory) input, if it's just a sensing input (as it likely is - so the controller doesnt run with the key off), power to the overflow bottle works. If you need something that can handle a load (to energize a relay, etc, post up and we can find you a circuit which definitely has enough capacity).


To keep the OEM gauges functional:

Use a Tee fitting for the oil pressure gauge. The stock boss and sender are 1/4" NPT and the AM is most likely 1/8" NPT (so adapt accordingly).

For the coolant temp gauge, put the AM sender in the stock location. Relocate the stock sender to the rear of the lower intake (driver's side), to the t-stat (you can buy a stat with a 3/8" NPT hole for 10 bucks at AZ). Or see Jrichker's method of making a manifold to install a sender in a rubber line. Do NOT connect two temp senders in a Tee fitting (the probes need to see the stream of electrolyte in real time. A tee places the senders in an alcove).

Good luck.

EDIT: You might need to buy an adapter for your coolant gauge. AM used to include the adapter for SBC's but not SBF's. That might have changed. You can get the fitting from AM or a better parts store.

You should be able to safely tap into VPRR to the ignition coil. Or run a wire from the ignition switch harness, through the firewall and to the controller.

You got it regarding the ECT. See #7
(diagram courtesy of Stang 22, who credits Almost Stock for showing it to him IIRC):

View attachment 349811



You'd tap into the ECT's signal wire. This one varies voltage with regard to temperature (the VRef wire always shows 5 volts - you do not want to use that one). The sig wire is lt grn with a yellow trace IIRC.



Good luck.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender: Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold.
Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for
the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will
get the most accurate temp readings.


Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee
that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in
the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

88-378 said:

Daggar, the green wire is the one that i tap going to the ECT. right?

Never mind re-read your post. what is VPRR? i don't want to run it all the way through the firewall.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure if Daggar has posted on this thread but I'll take a stab here.

VPWR is the 12 volt output from the EEC relay. One leg runs to the positive side of your ignition coil. There are other locations to grab accessory power if you dont mind digging through the underhood wire looms or running a little extra wire.