Wiring help needed!

#41
K guys try not to get too mad but I can't seem to get the rear seat out. According to a mustang book that i have to remove the back rest u simply pull up and it shoudl come off the hooks right? well I dunno if im not putting enough strength but it doesn't seem to be budging, the right side has always been off its hook but the passenger side is really in there. I cant get the bottom out either, the book says u simply push the center of it back 1 and a 1/2 inches and it should come off the hooks and off... well again i cant seem to make it budge. Anyone know where to get connectors that are similar to those for the instrument panel? also anyone know where to get some molex's? i'd like to make it like quick disconnect, like the instrument panel all connects to one molex which then connects to all its wires coming from the fuse box and light switch from one place, making it easy for repairs when needed. and less clutter.

What would you guys think if i moved the fuse box to the glove box?
Also has anyone found a way to reinforce the glove box? its cardboard ness concerns me.
Also any suggestions on how to light the back two seats and trunk? and maybe even the glove box? leds? neons? or just the plain old light bulbs? I seem to have broken my glove box light when pulling it out, and quite frankly i dont think it cut it in the first place... It never did work.

I was thinking last night... as all the electronics are out of the car... I might as well fix everything that doesn't work right... Cigarette lighter... get a new one... trunk light add one... Repaint the dash... get the correct color carpet... (all the interior has been changed to 65 red while the carpet is still 66 red) I'm trying to clean the mud, dust, and grime that has accumulated behind the dash over the years, and believe me its alot... Also planning on adding sound dampening as the seats and carpet are out... adding sound dampening to the firewall... that is gonna be tough. Its like a one shot deal... the only things i'm leaving out are disc brakes, and subs, i might as well add kick panels, new stereo...
 
#42
If you haven't already, you should pull the front seats out. It will make it much easier working under the dash and easier getting the back seat out. They are each fastened by four nuts accessed from underneath the car. There are rubber plugs that pop out. Use a deep 1/2" socket.

Back seat:
Push down and then use your knee to knock it back in each of the areas where the hooks are (blue arrows). When it gives the inch or so, let up on it and it should release.

Removing the bottom will give you access to the back bolts (white arrows)
Once they are removed, pivot the bottom out just a tad and lift up about an inch or so and it comes off hooks at the top.

seatbolts.webp
 
#48
I found a local shop that carries all the connectors, so i'll start up again soon. A concern was recently brought up about making sure that this new wiring job will be safe enough. are there any tests/precautions I can take to make sure that there will not be any electrical fires? what are the common causes? and what should I do with the extra wires such as power windows, a/c compressor etc... I rolled em up and zip tied em together but should I cap the ends with something?
 
#49
I bundled mine and wrapped the tip of each in electrical tape and stuffed them in the dash.

Also just for the heck of it, I now carry a fire extinguisher in the car. I finished the job 6 months ago and have had no issues.
 
#50
Yah I want to carry a fire extinguisher in my car too, maybe like a small chrome one that attaches onto the hump that divides the two front seats.

But: I was wiring the instrument panel, (I'm wiring it on the fixture itself and then connecting it to a molex which will then connect to its respectable areas, so when you need to maintain it you just have to disconnect one thing) well I was looking at the ammeter, and i was tracing it back to where it needs to connect, and according to the ignition schematics it connects to the main disconnect and then one goes to the starter relay, and one goes to the alternator, my problem is that when I went to the car and looked at the alternator... it looked like it was flipped upside down than in the picture which i thought was fine, but then when i started looking at the wires, it seems that the two are switched... i used the ground as a measuring one and it seems that the one that is at the top... the one that connects to the regulator is supposed to be white but on the actual car is black-yellow and the one that connects to the ammetter is white, and is supposed to be black and yellow, how can i make sure? does it matter which one goes where?

2. Where is a really good place to connect the ground?
 
#51
If it was me, I probably would not wire in the ammeter.

The way an amp meter works is it takes all the current in the circuit path through it. That would mean you would have to have unusually large wires running to it.

On our Mustangs, the ammmeter takes a portion of the power distribution through it, but if you have or decide to add a higher output alternator later, you will have problems.

Most cars now have volt gauges instead. They are wired in parallel with the circuit instead of series and only need small wiring. I think a voltmeter gives you more information of what's going on with your charging system.

I replaced my gauges with a VDO setup, and it came with disconnects too. I used the metal bracket right behind the panel for a ground, IIRC the same as the factory.
 
#52
Really? actually, I was planning on putting a higher output alternator right after I finished wiring the car. Hmm, so a volt gauge? I can get one teh same size and style as the stock ones and put it in? where do they sell those?
Also the oil one, thats oil pressure correct? because in my car the previous owner installed a second oil pressure gauge with numbers under the ignition at the bottom of the dash. Except, the aftermarket one not only has wires but a tube connecting to part of the oil sending unit, when the car is turned off the tube has space in between so it is black, gray (the color of the tube) and black, but when the car turns on it becomes solid black, when i traced it back to the oil sending unit the traditional part with the wire coming out was off to the side and this tube was going in directly. Anyone else have this? is it better to replace this too?
 
#53
suki243 said:
Also the oil one, thats oil pressure correct? because in my car the previous owner installed a second oil pressure gauge with numbers under the ignition at the bottom of the dash. Except, the aftermarket one not only has wires but a tube connecting to part of the oil sending unit, when the car is turned off the tube has space in between so it is black, gray (the color of the tube) and black, but when the car turns on it becomes solid black, when i traced it back to the oil sending unit the traditional part with the wire coming out was off to the side and this tube was going in directly. Anyone else have this? is it better to replace this too?
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have a mechanical oil gauge vs. an electrical gauge that you are used to.
 
#54
oic, yah the one on the bottom is white faced I'd like to get one thats black faced to match the others also it has numbers while the original one is just a level. I was thinking to get one of those 3 gauge things to put under the dash near the shifter and put a new water temp, a smaller rpm, and that oil psi gauge there.
 
#55
K, I finished wiring up the intstrument panel to the molex, it works great, and i really thank the guy at the electronics store for convincing me to buy a cripmer... it made the job so much easier. I'm pretty sure if it was some1 more experienced it would've taken 1/6 of the time but hey i learned a lot, tested diffferent soldering techniques, and crimping techniques. A great but tedious experience.

Picture of instrument panel:
View attachment 380702

The yellow heat shrinks stand for those connecting to lights, the green is for fuel, the black is for ground/oil, and temperature is blue. =)
 
#59
thanks, an update: i'm currently in the process of fixing my floor pans, they had some rust holes in them concerning me, so, I ordered some POR 15, gonna repair em, then, put in the new sound dampening, paint the interior, then start rewiring it all, new carpet, and then seats.

A question about the ignition switch... the new harness has two different connectors for the ignition, one connector has 2 wires that include ignistion switch accessories and the other wire is a splice coming out of ignition switch power.
The second connector has ignition switch coil, ignition switch power, ignition switch ignition and ignition switch start. I sent ez wiring's technical support an email about how to wire it, sent them the wiring diagram, and told em that my ignition only has three wires coming out of it.
 
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