ok so I have a previous post on this topic. I am about ready to give up and go carbed because I cannot figure out what to do to get my 5.0 to stop running rich. I have done the following to try and correct the problem. Took it to a mechanic who hooked it up to the computer and changed the BAP sensor the TPS and the fuel pressure regulator. WHen I got it back after paying almost 500$ I put a new computer in new o2 sensors and a coolant temp sensor all to no avail. I am so frustrated. All the feedback I get is to dump the codes but I don't see what good that will do if the codes were already checked and everything was corrected that the diagnostics test said. I'm leary of taking it to another mechanic for I can't afford to pay another 500$ for my car not to be fixed. I am so tempted to switch to carb. but I have spent so muh money on this efi that its all almost new so it would be a waste to change. Also I forgot to mention that when I swaped the engine out I also put a new upper and lower Typhoon intake on it, and to my knowledge that should not make a difference but if anyone has any input on where to go next please let me know.
Wits end
- Thread starter sidl3000
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yes I have an off road h-pipe but there should not be black smoke and it really does it when you hit the gas it bogs down big time way to much fuel. I just went and bought one of those ford code readers and i hooked it up but I cannot get it to pull codes. does this mean that I am not getting power to the eec?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Are there any modifications to the car? Oh yeah, while you're at it - if you could tell us what kind of car and year it is, that might help too.
If you did the old paperclip trick to pull the codes, it might give us a better starting point to have you troubleshoot. Just return that code reader and get your $$ back 
Oh, and I'm not sure if this would cause such a problem, but when you deleted your smog, did you plug the ports up from the back of the heads?
Oh, and I'm not sure if this would cause such a problem, but when you deleted your smog, did you plug the ports up from the back of the heads?
James et al, are correct - we need the entire low down (are you MAF? Etc). AFAIK, a non-Cali '88 GT should have been SD, so no BAP (unless it is a Cali car or converted). But info like that is very much needed to help.
good luck.
good luck.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
In your initial post you said the dealer replaced the "BAP" --- Speed density cars don't have a BAP - they have an MAP (manifold absolute pressure). Check that sensor - the vacuum 'nipple' should be connected to manifold vacuum. The BAP's are left open to sense atmospheric pressure (Barometric Absolute Pressure). If yours is not hooked up to vacuum - and is seeing atmospheric pressure all the time - that might explain the rich condition; atmospheric pressure is close to what the manifold sees at w.o.t.....
Michael Yount said:
I agree with this one , friends car was running like crap when he first got it and he thought it was running good , well after fixing the vacuum leaks , hooking the MAP up like it was supposed to be and good tune up and bumping the timing , he didnt know what to say ....on a speed density 87-88 model (88 non california) that MAP (not BAP ) sensor has to be hooked up to a vacuum source for the computer to adjust the fuel , timing , etc .......but one more thing to add and I would do anyway is to check fuel pressure , if its too high put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it ( stock is 38-40 psi , if you put an adjustable one on turn it back to 35-37 )
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
....and if your mechanic was the one that either 1) didn't hook up the MAP, or 2) actually 'unhooked' it, I'd want to have a talk with him about a refund of an appropriate part of what you paid him.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Pull some copies of the thread off and head on back to your mechanic -- see if he'll refund some of your money. He shouldn't have missed that....
Glad it's working for you.
Glad it's working for you.
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