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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

wont idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter fox92
  • Start date Start date Sep 18, 2010
F

fox92

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Sep 18, 2010
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Sep 18, 2010
#1
  • Sep 18, 2010
  • #1
im having problems with the idle. first i removed the smog pump and just folded the pipes on the back of the head and welded them. once i started it i had a really rough idle and was running very rich, it would burn your eyes. i checked for vaccum leaks with some carb cleaner and found nothing. i then replaced the iac and tps and now the car wont even idle after startup. i have to hold the gas down to keep it going. any advice.
 

jrichker

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  • Sep 18, 2010
  • #2
See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. Everything you need to find and fix idle problems is in there.

The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
 
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fox92

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#3
  • Sep 18, 2010
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what happens if you jump the underhood light connector or the other gray ones that are by the eec test connector
 

jrichker

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WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer. Then you will definitely have idle problems.
 
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fox92

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so your telling me i need a computer
 

cenok is family

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  • Sep 19, 2010
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if that's what you did, then yup.

jrich knows his stuff.
 
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mwood

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#7
  • Sep 20, 2010
  • #7
I had idle issues when I had a 5.0. Smog was removed when I bought it. The fix for me was as simple as cleaning the TB with some carb cleaner. Get's stuck and gunked up.
 

jrichker

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  • Sep 20, 2010
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Make no assumptions - diagnose and then replace only as needed.

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 91-93 model 5.0 Mustangs

How it is supposed to work:
The grey/red wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems.
Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector grey/red wire gets jumpered to power
which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer.
That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open
the computer up & repair the trace if it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering
it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test
simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(grey/red wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.



If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the grey/red wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector : it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the grey/red wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.





If you feel like opening up the computer to attempt to repair the fried wire, see http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/749974-computer-issue.html#post7490537 and joel5.0's comments for more help on fixing the computer innards.
 
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