wont start after intake install

Get the info on resetting the computer. Same thing happened to me, and after all sorts of tests and whatnot, it was as easy as resetting the computer!

to reset the comp dont you just unplug the battery for 10 min or so. i have had a vac line missing on the front of my intake (it was hideing with the fuel injector harnus) and it wouldnt start.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
G.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the no

If it is a vac line then it would be a major vac line for it not to start, it would just run like bung if it was a small vac line.

check your firing order and make sure it's correct...counterclockwise, not clockwise. Sounds like the timing might not be dead-on. If you have a timing light, double check your timing w/ a timing light.

did you pull the distributor or turn it at all ? sounds like its to advanced if it trys until you let off the key

Did you use a timing light to set the timing?

Did you connect all the vacuum lines back up?

Here's some help for the vacuum lines - Red line goes to the fuel pressure regulator

There is a cluster of vacuum lines on the passenger side wheel well. A plastic sleeve covers the colored part of the lines: push it back to see the colors I am referring to.

One white line from the vacuum line cluster goes to the rear smog pump valve. One line goes from the manifold to the red line on the vacuum line cluster. One green line from the vacuum line cluster goes to the EGR, The black line from the vacuum line cluster goes to the from smog pump valve.

One large vacuum line from the front goes to the carbon canister control solenoid.

Some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) with a picture...
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif

ok here is what happened to me.
i first made the newbie mistake of not changing out the gaskets when i removed my manifold the 2nd time. i figured since they were brand new, i can reuse them again! well i was wrong LOL!! so i took it off the 3rd time and i took the gaskets off and i realized that i didnt clean everything off the head! so i super power cleaned the heads till u can eat off them. next i put blue gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket and put it on. then i installed my manifold and everything worked.

i had the same problem as you and it was the fact i didnt clean my gasket crap all the way. always remember to change the new gasket if you compress it and remove the manifold again.

whitenblu89 said:

finally got it running. i took the intake back off and saw that there was still pieces of the original gasket stuck to the heads. i scraped it all off and put it back together now it runs beautifully. i even put on the new 70mm throttle body . but now i have one more question people talk about using a 94-95 mass air meter and im just curious how big the newer mass air meter is because the local yard has them for 25$

Click to expand...

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.

Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

Good job finding the old gasket pieces on there man. That little stuff can always make a car run stupid!

Jakob