WOW! Timing makes a BIG difference!

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

I FINALLY checked my timing last night.......2 degrees. I couldn't believe I've been running 8-10 degrees retarded for this long. In any event, I reset it back to 10 degrees and the thing feels like a whole new monster. Throttle response is back AND my car doesn't backfire in the low rpms anymore.

I can't wait to get off work so I can get back on the highway and let 'er rip. Now my car doesn't fall on its face in the high rpms. Matter of fact, feels like she'll make power all the way up to 5500. ****, she feels like she'll make power past that.

Oh well....I'm going to bump it up to 12-14 and see how she runs, hopefully she'll run even better.

I noticed when I was under the car that I have a Pro Street harmonic balancer. Is this a badass harmonic balancer or not? The ****ing thing had 3 sets of numbers. It took a minute to figure out which hash marks to use. What the hell are they all for?

ryan218 · Aug 6, 2007

10* is about perfect for a stock 5.0...(justin came over the checked mine for me) with 12*-14* run 89 or 93 though it..

DigitalGhost · Aug 6, 2007

stupid question....

how do you check and change the timing?

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

ryan218 said:
10* is about perfect for a stock 5.0...(justin came over the checked mine for me) with 12*-14* run 89 or 93 though it..

So If I go over 10 I'll have to up my octane? I thought you could go to 12 and still run 87?

nisreo · Aug 6, 2007

DigitalGhost said:
stupid question....

how do you check and change the timing?

you need a white out pen, beer and a timing light.

0: Drink beer ( thanks Ike83!)

1: rotate the crank and check the balancer for the timing marks.

2: use the white out pen to mark the lines and pointer tip clearly so you can read them easily

3: hook up the timing light to the battery and #1 cylinder spark plug wire

4: Remove the spout connector and loosen the distributor hold down bolt.

5. Start the engine and let it idle.

6: Point the timing gun at the balancer and pull the trigger, you should see your white marks standing still.

7: adjust the timing by rotating the distributor. Rotate it until the timing degree you want lines up with the tip of the pointer.

8: Shut down the engine and tighten the distributor hold down

9: re connect the spout connector and your done.

Let me know if I missed anything.

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

nisreo said:
Let me know if I missed anything.

I think you missed the MOST important step......

BEER!

fiveohwblow · Aug 6, 2007

Ike83 said:
So If I go over 10 I'll have to up my octane? I thought you could go to 12 and still run 87?

Wow.. I am surprised you guys run regular... I have always ran 91-93 even when stock. Especially with the timing at 14*!!!!

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

fiveohwblow said:
Wow.. I am surprised you guys run regular... I have always ran 91-93 even when stock. Especially with the timing at 14*!!!!

I run 87 no PROBLEM. No pinging or anything. I was always under the impression that you want to run the LOWEST octane possible without pinging.

fiveohwblow · Aug 6, 2007

Ike83 said:
I run 87 no PROBLEM. No pinging or anything. I was always under the impression that you want to run the LOWEST octane possible without pinging.

Well I think to save money and the obvious reason that regular gets cycled more heavily in station tanks so sediment is not as much a concern, but I always looked at it as a performance car, and with it being older tech and I can change the timing to 14* and gain power I did. I am sure you run 87 no problem, but it always did me well to run higher octane...

85_SS_302_Coupe · Aug 6, 2007

I thought 8-10 was stock? I've always run 14* though.

Oh and my car runs like a slug with 87 or 89 in it...doesn't like it at all. I've had so many people tell me there's not enough difference between 89 and 93 to make a difference but my car runs and tells me otherwise.

SVT32VDOHC · Aug 6, 2007

10 is stock.

I would check your spark plugs now. Make sure the gap is at the stock .054....I had all types of high RPM problems. Pulled out the plugs and they were so old and they were worn to .070!!!! I put them at .048 because my car has 141K on it, and the thing runs BEAUTIFUL!!! I can squak the tires in 2nd gear now, and no more hesitation over 5K!!!

25thmustang · Aug 6, 2007

I would throw new plugs in there actually, and run it at 14 degrees. Mine was at 4 and could barely make it up my driveway. I bumped it to 10 for emissions then 14 now. My car with the E7s ran best on 18 degrees actually!

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

Last month I put in some copper Autolites. I thought my timing issue WAS a spark plug issue, so I changed 'em and STILL had the same problem. Now that I've fixed my timing I have power ALL THROUGH the rpms. It feels like a brand new car my goodness gracious.

My only concern, is HOW did the timing fall down to 2 degrees?

Copperstang87 · Aug 6, 2007

when we swapped my tranny in my car, drove the car around town, shifted awesome, car ran like **** tho, checked the timing it was at like 20* and it was checked at 10* a week ago so i guess the dizzy got loose somehow thats the only explanation.

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

Copperstang87 said:
when we swapped my tranny in my car, drove the car around town, shifted awesome, car ran like **** tho, checked the timing it was at like 20* and it was checked at 10* a week ago so i guess the dizzy got loose somehow thats the only explanation.

I hate dizzys.....I think I'm just going to take mine off and push it around town.

foxmustangman · Aug 6, 2007

My dad and i thought we adjusted it, but i think we did, then moved it back to 10* on accident, because i havent noticed a thing.

fivespeedsteed · Aug 6, 2007

10 is stock right? so 14 is better and run 89+ to be safe? that sound good? i want to mess with mine.

foxmustangman · Aug 6, 2007

yeah, i have nothing to do today. i'll probably play too.

Ike83 · Aug 6, 2007

Ummm......I believe it defeats the purpose to advance your timing to the point of having to run a higher octane. The theory behind it is to advance your timing enough, but not TOO much that you have to run a higher octane. If you have to run a higher octane (which is usually due to spark knock) than you're defeating the purpose. You shouldn't have to run a higher octane on a LOW compression car. Apparently, our engines weren't built to run a high octane. Matter of fact, higher octanes in a low compression car can sometimes lead to unburnt fuel on the cylinder walls and you simply don't want that.

As far as I know......11 to 12 degrees on 87 octane should be perfect....but I could be wrong.

87Mustang351 · Aug 6, 2007

what should i run my timing at on my 351W? im not sure whats its on now we jsut set it by ear because there was no marks on my balancer, but i just picked up some msd timing tape...thanks!!! also what should run my total advanced timing at for the drag strip!

WOW! Timing makes a BIG difference!

Member

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

Official Member

Member

Official Member

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

waiting for the next hack atta

Mustang Master

Member

New Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency