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X-pipe install..Tools needed???

  • Thread starter Thread starter kylebgt
  • Start date Start date Dec 10, 2007
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kylebgt

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Jul 2, 2007
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Dec 10, 2007
#1
  • Dec 10, 2007
  • #1
I always see post that say, all you need for a x-pipe install is some extensions to get to the passenger bolt. I have yet to come across a detailed description of EXACTLY what tools are needed for the job. Also is there a detailed writeup somewhere on how to do it? I have a X-pipe that has been sitting in my basement for 2 months now and I really need to get around to installing it. Thanks
 
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03redgtstang

Banned
Apr 24, 2007
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Dec 11, 2007
#2
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #2
It really isn't hard to say how to do it, its just harder to actually do it. that's why theres not much of a detailed description. You don't really need alot. Someone will chime in on exact measurements. I want to say you will need 15 mm socket , 1/2 in. ratchet (maybe 3/8), a few extensions, wrench/02 sensor socket (be extremely careful removing the sensors) I highly recommend the night before or few nights before lubing up all the bolts. other than also some jackstands to hold it in place if you don't have a few other hands, not much else is needed. Its fairly simple.
 
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03redgtstang

Banned
Apr 24, 2007
105
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Dec 11, 2007
#3
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #3
oh and bandaids and beer. the bandaids for your knuckles and the beer for when you realize how much of a bitch the manifold bolts are to get off.
 

Superhereaux

chicks make me feel inadequate
Founding Member
Jul 30, 2002
538
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59
South Texas
Dec 11, 2007
#4
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #4
pretty straight forward

3/8 ratchet, numerous extentions of various lengths, a swivel, mid-length 15mm socket and some WD-40

i forget what size you need for the cat-back connection but you should have them. buy a new gasket for the passenger side as well

what X-pipe did you buy?
 
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03redgtstang

Banned
Apr 24, 2007
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Dec 11, 2007
#5
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #5
ah yes the much needed swivel how soon I forget.
 
N

Nightstick

New Member
Jul 1, 2007
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Dec 11, 2007
#6
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #6
If you cannot find a mid-length socket(youll have to have it), take a deep well and cut it down. I used a pipe cutter, worked quite well.
 

Twista

Active Member
May 7, 2004
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@ the z00 in chicago
Dec 11, 2007
#7
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #7
its very easy..

all you need is.

PB Blaster (1 can) it works faster and way better than crappy Wd-40 for loosening up the header bolts

2 extensions (10inch extensions)

Use (1) Extension on the driver side to tighten it and unloosening it.
*Note* the more extensions you use the weaker the strength is to the bolt.

You need a swivel.. get (2) because you might break 1 if there cheap

You need a deep dish socket.. 18mm for my bolts, but everyone said it was 15mm so test it before you go buy the deep dish. Get 2 of these deep dishes just incase you break it trying to loosening up the header bolts.

A light source so you can see.

A gasket for the passenger side

thats it really.

i had many midpipes on my car and swapped them in all myself becept when removing my stock H. Its very easy and i can do it in little time now. The 1st time it took me hours, but i laugh at it now because how easy it is. The hardest part is just using muscle to break the header bolts... the rest is easy as pie.


just make sure you get a floor jack and jack the xpipe up abit than start tightening everything far as you can. Doing that will make it sit up higher. Or else you might scrap on bumps. So jack up the pipe when your tightening it up. Make sure you FINGER TIGHT EVERything when your just putting it together under your car. start at the header than go back and you should be good!
 
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2002GreyGT

Member
Jun 10, 2003
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Raleigh, NC
Dec 11, 2007
#8
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #8
A set of Mechanix or similar gloves to prevent all those knuckles from getting bashed!

~K
 
G

guitarpnk99

New Member
Nov 24, 2007
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Moline, IL
Dec 11, 2007
#9
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #9
+1 for mechanic gloves. If possible loosen the bolts with your hand open pushing with your palm so you don't throw a bitch fit.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

Active Member
May 20, 2006
1,421
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39
UCSD/La Jolla
Dec 12, 2007
#10
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #10
you're all forgetting a 20mm wrench for the 02 sensors
 

kylebgt

New Member
Jul 2, 2007
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Dec 12, 2007
#11
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #11
Thanks for the input guys! I will probably do it after Christmas, I asked for a couple ramps. Do you guys think they're low enough or will I scrape?
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,52804/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/initialR,NONAPP19841/shopping/selectZip.htm
 

1992 2.3LX

New Member
Dec 5, 2002
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Ky
Dec 12, 2007
#12
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #12
SOAK THE BOLTS FOR DAYS PRIOR TOO!!!

Use air tool if you can. I soaked my bolts for a day and used air tools and they were still a bitch.
 

georgio440

Member
Nov 22, 2007
195
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17
Walnut Creek, CA
Dec 12, 2007
#13
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #13
Are the bolts that bad? With some extensions and whatnot, I was able to remove the stock 10 year old exhaust off my old Dakota. Just took some manpower to break off the bolts, but it wasn't that bad.
 
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03redgtstang

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Apr 24, 2007
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Dec 12, 2007
#14
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #14
^^ The bolt itself yes it on there pretty damn good but the part that makes it so hard compared to the other side is the fact you need so many tools to get at the passenger side bolt, decreasing the amount of force applied to break it free. (extensions, swivel) It is in such a bad spot and so hard to get at, its not as easy as your other nuts and bolts on the car. Hence why people only b** and complain about the passanger side manifold bolts and no other bolts on the car lol.
 

georgio440

Member
Nov 22, 2007
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Walnut Creek, CA
Dec 12, 2007
#15
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #15
Look like I gotta buy a few tools then.
 

03ghoststang

Well-Known Member
Jul 16, 2005
1,930
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Los Angeles, California
Dec 12, 2007
#16
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #16
CobraRed_96_GT said:
you're all forgetting a 20mm wrench for the 02 sensors
Click to expand...

22mm
 

Twista

Active Member
May 7, 2004
510
2
29
@ the z00 in chicago
Dec 13, 2007
#17
  • Dec 13, 2007
  • #17
03redgtstang said:
^^ The bolt itself yes it on there pretty damn good but the part that makes it so hard compared to the other side is the fact you need so many tools to get at the passenger side bolt, decreasing the amount of force applied to break it free. (extensions, swivel) It is in such a bad spot and so hard to get at, its not as easy as your other nuts and bolts on the car. Hence why people only b** and complain about the passanger side manifold bolts and no other bolts on the car lol.
Click to expand...

that bolt is not bad at all. People complain about it when its there 1st couple times doing an midpipe install.

once you start doing it for emissions each year or just swapping pipes its not a PITA at all. i just use (2) 10' extensions and a swivel and the bolt comes right off. Just gotta spray it with pb blaster 30 seconds before you try to remove it. If your using wb 40 i would wait awhile before trying to break it because from the times of me using WD40 on the header bolts i almost sprain something in my back trying to break it loose. But than i tried pb blaster and that bitch came right off.

But people do bitch about the starter bolt also.. theres on bolt thats in a bad place


I se rhino ramps (grey)for the front of the car and jack stands for the ass end. Its get the car nice and high for the install.
 

Kornnut

Founding Member
Nov 25, 2000
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Tulsa
Dec 13, 2007
#18
  • Dec 13, 2007
  • #18
Spray the bolts with pb blaster then drive around a bit. Do this a few days before each day. Does wonders when you put a little heat to it.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

Active Member
May 20, 2006
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UCSD/La Jolla
Dec 13, 2007
#19
  • Dec 13, 2007
  • #19
03ghoststang said:
22mm
Click to expand...

awww touche
 

georgio440

Member
Nov 22, 2007
195
0
17
Walnut Creek, CA
Dec 13, 2007
#20
  • Dec 13, 2007
  • #20
Well, my midpipe is supposed to come today and I haven't really lubed up the bolts, but have the proper tools to get to the ones on the manifold. I'm gonna try it tonight and see if I've got the man power to do it.
 
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