Yellow 95

Blaise805 · Dec 26, 2013

So I found this 95 Gt convertible on craigslist and the seller said the trans was out but it ran. We rented a trailer and drove the hundred miles to check it out. Then car looked a little rough but not to bad and it started up and sounded good. The two passenger side tires were flat and the throttle cable is not attached to the peddle. I offered them four hundred and fifty bucks and they took it. got home filled the tires with air started it gave it a little gas from outside and drove it off the trailer put it in first and it went right into gear. I think we might have something here Ill post pics and an update in a few days. Something funny I haven't seen a yellow 95 convertible mustang in a long time and when we got on the freeway the twin went by,very strange how things happen.

revhead347 · Dec 27, 2013

Awesome. $450 SN. That's a good deal.

Kurt

chaos254 · Dec 27, 2013

Nice deal. I always hear of stories like this but I can never find then myself lol

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Blaise805 · Dec 30, 2013

Hello here is an update The engine runs good some hack got in there and made a mess of the wiring for the missing stereo. The transmission works good in reverse but barely moves in forward drive or first. Im going to drop the pan tomorrow and have a look but I think I'll be looking for a good used one. The power steering pump is shot and I have a new top coming. The hacks got to it but it is very savable if anyone has a AODE trans for sale let me know. Pics soon.

chaos254 · Dec 30, 2013

Blaise805 said:
Hello here is an update The engine runs good some hack got in there and made a mess of the wiring for the missing stereo. The transmission works good in reverse but barely moves in forward drive or first. Im going to drop the pan tomorrow and have a look but I think I'll be looking for a good used one. The power steering pump is shot and I have a new top coming. The hacks got to it but it is very savable if anyone has a AODE trans for sale let me know. Pics soon.

Check the classifieds or car-parts.com for a trans. This would be a perfect time for a manual conversion.

Blaise805 · Dec 30, 2013

I would consider the five speed but I have an 88 gt five speed and I'm going to put this one up for sale after I get it into shape. That being said I pulled the pan and the trans is shot. I went to two yards today and found two transmissions in cars that appear to not have been abused other than the accidents that put them in the yard. The first guy wanted six hundred bucks so I went to pick the part and found a cleaner car and I have to remove it but its one hundred and eighty bucks with a warranty and also has every other part I need. I think I can have this car put back in good shape with a total of about thirteen hundred dollars including the purchase price. I'm going to be busy. Ps why do these cars have some of the hardest to remove bolts I have delt with and I do allot of wrenching in the marine industry.

jozsefsz · Dec 30, 2013

Sounds like you have a plan. Don't be surprised if you keep the SN95 after you have it running, they're great cars (you'll see ). IMHO Ford's extensive use of mismatched metals (uncoated steel bolts, aluminum parts) is one of the biggest problems with stuck bolts... the corrosion-welding can be a real bear to deal with.

Blaise805 · Dec 30, 2013

You would think they use a little never seize but they never care about the guy that is going to service it later. I had to torch off the starter on my 88 last week because the upper bolt would not let go.

Blaise805 · Jan 16, 2014

Blaise805 said:
You would think they use a little never seize but they never care about the guy that is going to service it later. I had to torch off the starter on my 88 last week because the upper bolt would not let go.

Blaise805 said:
So I found this 95 Gt convertible on craigslist and the seller said the trans was out but it ran. We rented a trailer and drove the hundred miles to check it out. Then car looked a little rough but not to bad and it started up and sounded good. The two passenger side tires were flat and the throttle cable is not attached to the peddle. I offered them four hundred and fifty bucks and they took it. got home filled the tires with air started it gave it a little gas from outside and drove it off the trailer put it in first and it went right into gear. I think we might have something here Ill post pics and an update in a few days. Something funny I haven't seen a yellow 95 convertible mustang in a long time and when we got on the freeway the twin went by,very strange how things happen.

Hello Here is an update on the 95.I installed a used transmission from a guy on ebay he has good reviews and gives a ninety day guarantee. The price was good and the trans came clean and packed good on a pallet, now when I started the car and tried to shift nothing happened. I have been trouble shooting it and now if I rev it up abit it will engage .I have to do this in forward and reverse. I haven't had it on the street yet due to non op. I would like to hear any opinions on why this is happening and what to check. Thanks Randy.

toyman · Jan 16, 2014

Did you properly set the shift selector cable? Possible TR sensor issue as well.

Blaise805 · Jan 17, 2014

Thanks for the reply, can you tell me which plug is the TR sensor and what its purpose is?

jozsefsz · Jan 17, 2014

Fluid level would be my first suspicion so check & double-check that (in-gear I believe). Toyman's right the TRS can cause some weird stuff too. It's the switch attached to where the shift-selector cable goes. If I remember a long long time ago I bought one and they called it a neutral safety switch but it's actually a TRS. It tells the computer what gear you're in, which is pretty important in an electronically controlled transmission. It's an 8-pin oval connector from a google image search. Check the condition of that wiring and the pigtail as well. They sell the pigtail which makes me wonder if that's not a common problem-area (corrosion, etc.)

Blaise805 · Jan 21, 2014

jozsefsz said:
Fluid level would be my first suspicion so check & double-check that (in-gear I believe). Toyman's right the TRS can cause some weird stuff too. It's the switch attached to where the shift-selector cable goes. If I remember a long long time ago I bought one and they called it a neutral safety switch but it's actually a TRS. It tells the computer what gear you're in, which is pretty important in an electronically controlled transmission. It's an 8-pin oval connector from a google image search. Check the condition of that wiring and the pigtail as well. They sell the pigtail which makes me wonder if that's not a common problem-area (corrosion, etc.)

Thanks for the info, I just got back from a trip to Colorado. I think you guys are on to it. I have to make some adjustments I don't think the trans is in park when the shifter is it will not turn over in park. The car will start in neutral and now will go into reverse but it seems like the shifter is further up to park when it goes in and shifting into forward it seems to want to be down towards first or second and I'm not feeling the shifter click between gears. I have only gone back and forth in the lot and have not been on the street yet to put it to a real test but will try and adjust the shift cable tomorrow.

toyman · Jan 21, 2014

Do you know the procedure for adjusting the shifter cable?

Blaise805 · Jan 22, 2014

toyman said:
Do you know the procedure for adjusting the shifter cable?

I read about the procedure and tried it today but the proper cable mount to the trans is missing and the bolt and washer is not keeping the cable lined up. I also think the switch it self needs to be replaced. I think its supposed to have a ball type stud with a clip to hold the cable in place any insight on this would help. Thanks again for the replies.

toyman · Jan 22, 2014

There isn't anything that needs to be kept aligned. The end of the cable where you are adjusting is slotted to allow you to set it correctly. What you do is set the shift selector in drive, loosen the nut and move the manual lever all the way forward until it stops then move it back three indents and tighten the nut. With both the shift lever and manual lever in the drive positions you are good to go.

Blaise805 · Jan 22, 2014

toyman said:
There isn't anything that needs to be kept aligned. The end of the cable where you are adjusting is slotted to allow you to set it correctly. What you do is set the shift selector in drive, loosen the nut and move the manual lever all the way forward until it stops then move it back three indents and tighten the nut. With both the shift lever and manual lever in the drive positions you are good to go.

Thanks for the info I went to the pick your part today and got a cable to trans mount bolt. The one I got does not fit into the trans shift lever but the set up looked very similar. I don't know what the original looked like .

Blaise805 · Jan 23, 2014

Blaise805 said:
Thanks for the info I went to the pick your part today and got a cable to trans mount bolt. The one I got does not fit into the trans shift lever but the set up looked very similar. I don't know what the original looked like .

Ok so I put a new TR switch on and the car went right into gear and seemed fine then all of a sudden nothing in any gear. I let it set for an hour and right into gear no slipping or anything then instant no shift again, am I going to have to use the warranty I don't want to pull this thing again auughh.

jozsefsz · Jan 23, 2014

Have you checked your wiring / pigtail / harness? It seems to act a little differently each time you work on it. At least that's how it reads. Since this is the 2nd transmission doing the same thing to you I still wonder if the wiring isn't messed up. It could be a long-shot but I wouldn't pull the transmission until I at least checked it for corrosion and continuity. Maybe even jumper the solenoids into a certain gear to see if it stays there.

Why I say this is that it sounds like you have a break in the wiring -- high resistance heats it up and the resistance gets even higher, eventually dropping out of gear. Once it cools off it's ok enough for you to run again. This could also be due to bad grounds so those are always worth checking.

Also, how does it act when you put it into 2/1 (not D or OD)? If better then definitely leaning towards an electrical problem.

Blaise805 · Jan 23, 2014

jozsefsz said:
Have you checked your wiring / pigtail / harness? It seems to act a little differently each time you work on it. At least that's how it reads. Since this is the 2nd transmission doing the same thing to you I still wonder if the wiring isn't messed up. It could be a long-shot but I wouldn't pull the transmission until I at least checked it for corrosion and continuity. Maybe even jumper the solenoids into a certain gear to see if it stays there.

Why I say this is that it sounds like you have a break in the wiring -- high resistance heats it up and the resistance gets even higher, eventually dropping out of gear. Once it cools off it's ok enough for you to run again. This could also be due to bad grounds so those are always worth checking.

Also, how does it act when you put it into 2/1 (not D or OD)? If better then definitely leaning towards an electrical problem.

That's what we think too however I don't know anything about the electrical on these transmissons. I'm learning as I go. The fluid we put in is merc-Dex. I have read that it should use mercon v or something, could this cause this problem. I was thinking about disconnecting a trans cooler line and checking for pressure what do you think. Thanks again for the help. The first trans had a lot of metal in it.

Yellow 95

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Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

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