The eibach pro kit was the goto for years. I think at one point in my life every person I know had them. I'd say you are getting 1.5 inch drop out of them. I can't even remembee how many sets I help install.
Run new energy suspension isolators and my guess is that you will get a 1/4 inch back on any spring.
Still I'd just buy an H&R set

Mustang5L5 said:

I would take a guess that the pro-kit will likely give your least amount of drop and then you can “tune” it with isolator choices. (Poly, rubber or none)

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Same applies to the rear as far as removing the iso and getting more dropped right? I have Poly's in the rear so I need to get a little more drop too

I have the mad calibrated to 30 lb injectors. I also believe they did something to the a9l because I’ve tried several times switching to 19s and 19 maf and car wouldn’t start. Every time I start car it surges till I hold gas few seconds then it evens out idel. That just started happening. Also the afr is running lower leaner then before . I tried all kinds of stuff. All day today scince I woke up atb7 till now .Tried checking coil. 12 v,ignition switch12, switched iac, new fuel filter,pump and even a battery w terminals bought yesterday. 12 v on injectors,changed distributor,change ecc relay, new fuel relay,changed some vacuum lines. I’m thinking the fuel regulator. I don’t see or really smell fuel in vacuum line but that’s the only thing I could think of.I am getting code 85,67 I’ve had those before didn’t give me problems now I’m getting 29,34. I have 12 v coil wire ignition switch. Can a bad regulator cause surging?Also I was just reading something about a bad injector. I have never been able to do a cylinder balance test I have the code reader can you please explain how to do that? I haven’t changed spark plugs or wires. I don’t think that would cause surging

Rare find

Welcome to Stangnet.
Post pictures please. We would love to see this gem! Sounds like a Great find!

86HO5.0 said:

Load only dialog.

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86HO5.0 said:

Load only dialog.

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ok got it. i imported 3 to 1.

Load only dialog.

ok gotcha, so i have saved number 3..when i load do i include actual dependencies or load only dialog?

Save table 3 and then load the settings when table 1 is open, essentially copy and paste.

The Idle duty cycle is currently at 49.8 at target idle RPM. Open the idle initial values table under the startup/idle tab. Bring the lower values up.

86HO5.0 said:

You have 2 ignition timing tables and table switching is turned off. Table 1 has crazy swings in commanded timing, Table 3 timing table looks good. Make this one your primary or enable table switch.

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86HO5.0 said:

The idle PWM is pretty high, I'd recommend opening the throttle stop screw slightly (calibrate TPS after) to bring it down to 30-35 at an idle.

If you'd prefer not to adjust the throttle stop screw, calibrate the TPS--currently reading -0.6. Then adjust the idle initial values table, it currently drops well below the number recorded at a stable idle. This needs to be slightly higher than normal idle PWM, try 52-55 range and tune accordingly.

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so the idle pwm is set to 10? is that what your seeing? i did calibrate my tps today before i did anything with the car. i had to get my timing set with the trigger wizard. im trying to understand what your saying. i havent really changed much in the fuel/ignition tables. i think i need to sit and watch some videos on idle values table etc...im kinda learning this all as i go. thank you.

86HO5.0 said:

You have 2 ignition timing tables and table switching is turned off. Table 1 has crazy swings in commanded timing, Table 3 timing table looks good. Make this one your primary or enable table switch.

Click to expand...

ive made some adjustments on timing table 1, i havent touched anything on timing table 3, im brand new to this. im not sure how to go about the table switching and making 1 or the other the primary. ill watch a few more videos and see if i can get it figured out. thank you for the advice

General karthief said:

he is running a ca.....car.......curbera........curberater.....ah....c-a-r-b-u-rator, I doubt cats would last long, right?
Besides, he has a dog so there's that

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When you are trying to make your car idle using Richters step by step instructions. I will use a flat bladed screw driver and tweak the idle screw clockwise or counterclockwise.... OH the horror........

You have 2 ignition timing tables and table switching is turned off. Table 1 has crazy swings in commanded timing, Table 3 timing table looks good. Make this one your primary or enable table switch.

The IAC duty cycle is pretty high, I'd recommend opening the throttle stop screw slightly (calibrate TPS after) to bring it down to 30-35 at an idle.

If you'd prefer not to adjust the throttle stop screw, calibrate the TPS--currently reading -0.6. Then adjust the idle initial values table, it currently drops well below the number recorded at a stable idle. This needs to be slightly higher than normal idle duty cycle, try 52-55 range and tune accordingly.

It's coming through in HTML instead of MSQ.

Edit--Got the file.

General karthief said:

he is running a ca.....car.......curbera........curberater.....ah....c-a-r-b-u-rator, I doubt cats would last long, right?
Besides, he has a dog so there's that

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Honestly, i have no clue what cats do with a carb.
I owned one car with a carb and it only lasted a couple months thankfully.

Justin87 said:

I DO want a minimal drop. Back when I was 17 I cut my stock springs and my 5.0 was SLAMMED lol. Terrible ride quality but I was young and dumb and didn't care. Now I am 36 and and feel like 1 inch is plenty.

However, I was forgetting about the isolators. Adding new ones of those will raise it up even if the new springs bring it down. That's a good point.

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Ok kool yeah that's the only thing is you want a certain drop but the isolators might make it a little higher than you want it so you got a gauge that and make adjustments

Attach a copy of the most recent saved tune file. If that doesn't work you can email it to me.