Wel i put 30lbs on with maf from pro-m for 30s for my hci swap but now im putting the originals back on with the original maf
Resolved Car wont start after running out of fuel
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Fuel is clean checked the psi again after i put on my 19lbs and new fpr and its at 40 psi
I like your plan.
Just to confirm (only because it hasn't been said yet): The car at one point ran well on the 30lb injectors and Pro-m; correct?
Just to confirm (only because it hasn't been said yet): The car at one point ran well on the 30lb injectors and Pro-m; correct?
No it hasnt this is a new fresh rebuild engine with a hci swap and the previous one had the 19s on
Here is where i am at now car cranks but does not start.
It starts with start fluid but lacks power, full throttle goes to about 1000 rpms and thats it
Replaced eec relay, fuel pump relay, tfi, Checked iac between pins gives me 9.3 ohm, tps is 0.93v closed, koeo gives me code 81 82 84 and 96.
The first 3 are emision stuff that i have removed but the 96 makes me think my pump isnt flowing enough or is bad but still gives me 40 psi?
It starts with start fluid but lacks power, full throttle goes to about 1000 rpms and thats it
Replaced eec relay, fuel pump relay, tfi, Checked iac between pins gives me 9.3 ohm, tps is 0.93v closed, koeo gives me code 81 82 84 and 96.
The first 3 are emision stuff that i have removed but the 96 makes me think my pump isnt flowing enough or is bad but still gives me 40 psi?
Ahhhhh...
You have us here trying to help you chase down a component failure. One that would be initiated somehow by running the engine out of fuel.
Let's begin again.
Please list all parts and mods installed on the car since the last time it ran correctly.
Post some detailed images of your engine bay when you get the chance including some close-ish (not too close) images of your new parts.
I had to go back and re-read your first post now that I understand a little better about what's going on.
30 lb injectors with just a Pro-M is stretching it. I've been down that road and you really should get it tuned. That new MAF will compensate with an approximation of voltages but it cannot compensate for the fuel ramps (The EEC still thinks you have 19 lb injectors, mind you.)
That aside, unless you have a blower or big heads and cam in that kit, you shouldn't need the 30s.
You have us here trying to help you chase down a component failure. One that would be initiated somehow by running the engine out of fuel.
This changes things.
Let's begin again.
Please list all parts and mods installed on the car since the last time it ran correctly.
Post some detailed images of your engine bay when you get the chance including some close-ish (not too close) images of your new parts.
I had to go back and re-read your first post now that I understand a little better about what's going on.
30 lb injectors with just a Pro-M is stretching it. I've been down that road and you really should get it tuned. That new MAF will compensate with an approximation of voltages but it cannot compensate for the fuel ramps (The EEC still thinks you have 19 lb injectors, mind you.)
That aside, unless you have a blower or big heads and cam in that kit, you shouldn't need the 30s.
New rings? If yes I would pull the plugs and shoot some clean motor oil into each hole, not a lot, excess raw fuel can wash the cylinders dry and wipe out ring to cylinder seal.
Just say'n
Just say'n
Last time it ran it had the old original engine in it this engine is a new one.
As it stands now:
Rebuild 302 shortblock
Gt40 upper and lower intake ported by tmoss
Promaxx heads
Trick flow stage 1 cam
1.7 scorpion roller rockers
19lbs injectors with original maf
T5 swap
A9p ecu
Mishimoto radiator
Elektric fan
Shorty headers
Off road h pipe
Magnaflow catback
As it stands now:
Rebuild 302 shortblock
Gt40 upper and lower intake ported by tmoss
Promaxx heads
Trick flow stage 1 cam
1.7 scorpion roller rockers
19lbs injectors with original maf
T5 swap
A9p ecu
Mishimoto radiator
Elektric fan
Shorty headers
Off road h pipe
Magnaflow catback
Attachments
Ok... and it sounds like you got at least one "It's alive" idle for a time. That's a good thing.
I'm going to put this here:
stangnet.com
You've already pulled codes (keep pulling them as you go along). But look at the EEC and sensor test sections of the checklist above.
Have you peeked at the plugs since the time it idled?
Another thought that occurred to me is that if the EEC is passing you codes then it is alive at the very least. We've seen a [rash] of EECs with bad capacitors of late. If I remember right, those units didn't continue to pass codes. @General karthief @Mustang5L5 Do you guys recall more on that portion?
I'm going to put this here:
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...
stangnet.com
You've already pulled codes (keep pulling them as you go along). But look at the EEC and sensor test sections of the checklist above.
Have you peeked at the plugs since the time it idled?
Another thought that occurred to me is that if the EEC is passing you codes then it is alive at the very least. We've seen a [rash] of EECs with bad capacitors of late. If I remember right, those units didn't continue to pass codes. @General karthief @Mustang5L5 Do you guys recall more on that portion?
So good thing i put the 19s back in also this is when it ran last time with the 19s in...
The 30s are out of the question now
Change those plugs!! Get some champions or autolites, take them V-Power junk and toss them. Don't need no highfalutin igniters, just stock, copper plugs gap around .052 or so.
Let me understand this, the car ran out of gas, would not start, then the engine was rebuilt and updated with what appears to be some great go fast goodies?
Still will not start. It apparently ran for a minute from the looks of those plugs, I bet you change out those plugs, with 19 lbs injectors and a matching maf that thing may just light right off.
Still will not start. It apparently ran for a minute from the looks of those plugs, I bet you change out those plugs, with 19 lbs injectors and a matching maf that thing may just light right off.
Almost lol, no the new rebuild one ran out of gas while idling on my lift, i have never driven it just idling.
Also started up fine every time untill then.
Maybe its vacuum related i switched from speed density to maf with the old engine, do i have to connect the map line or just leave it open?
Also i have three vacuum ports on the manifold, one to the t tree, one to the fpr and one to the pcv.
And i kept the charcoal canister and ran the vacuum line from the canister to the t tree.
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First, connect the charcoal canister to the intake direct by it self, the valve and wires are there hooked up right? The valve opens at part throttle cruise to purge any gas fumes from canister.
Second, the vacuum line that is used for the MAP sensor on SD cars should be plugged off, leaving the nipple on the sensor open to atmosphere.
Thanks for clearing up the order of events, I think if you swap the plugs it will run.
I think the big azz injectors introduced too much fuel and fouled the plugs,
Now these are the thoughts from a back yard hack and not based on any real mechanical training
Second, the vacuum line that is used for the MAP sensor on SD cars should be plugged off, leaving the nipple on the sensor open to atmosphere.
Thanks for clearing up the order of events, I think if you swap the plugs it will run.
I think the big azz injectors introduced too much fuel and fouled the plugs,
Now these are the thoughts from a back yard hack and not based on any real mechanical training
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