my notch vs. 96 cobra

thanks for telling me the differences between the late n early fox, i wasnt aware (seriously). now i know. like i said, i love new edge's but the new edge cobras go for considerably more than say a 96 or 97 with 90k+ miles...
 
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Since the last two times our SVTOA chapter had dyno days using a Dynojet. Two similarly modded 96-98 Cobras put down in the mid-290's, while a bone stock 96 put down 267. DOHC cars respond very well to modding. Bear in mind, I own one.

Ruffle my feathers? lol @ GB101. :rlaugh:

Then why does everyone over on svtperformance seem to think that longtubes are required for anyone event thinking of topping 300rwhp on a 96-98 dohc cobra?

They may respond well to mods…but you certainly are not getting 40rwhp out of a midpipe and cai that’s for sure. The average 96-98 dohc seems to be in the low 260/high 250 range.
 
call me ignorant, but can someone explain to me the advantage longtubes have over shorties?

Long Tubes have longer primaries which improve exhaust scavenging. This in turn promotes better low end torque figures and a broader power band in comparison to shorties. Shorties are said to promote better breathing up top, but unless you're driving an all out race car with an 8,000RPM peak power band, you'll never notice it anyway. Since this is the case, Long Tubes tend to be the header to choose when a performance is in question.

Essentially, shorties are bought because they do offer a slight improvement in flow over the stock manifolds, but mostly because they're easier to install than Long Tubes.
 
ok thanks. by itself (over shorties) is it enough of a difference to notice though?

Where the early '96-'98 DOHC Cobra's are concerned....yes, every little way you can enhance low RPM torque production helps. The number one mods for these cars are gears, Long tubes/mid pipe, under drive pulleys and CAI. Some go with IMRC deltes as well, but I like the idea of having them in there for part throttle street use. That's a combination for a solid 12-second car right there. :nice:
 
Since when is midpipe and CAI worth 40+ rwhp on a 96 dohc? I’d venture to say it’s likely 270rwhp to 215rwhp comparison. When you factor in the 300-400lb weight advantage of the fox….that horsepower differential starts to quickly disappear.

Considering a stock notch is capable of running low 14's/high 13's @ 99mph….I think it could be a drivers race to the finish. Without gears that 96 dohc is going to be a dog down low…and will likely not fully catch up until close to the end of the ¼. Obviously, anything past that and the cobra has the clear advantage.
My 96 Cobra had 3.73s, O/R H-pipe, Cat-back and a POS Jet chip and no other power mods. It made 299.8 rwhp. :nice:
A 408 built properly wouldn't need a lot of boost to get to 650. I'll bet you could get there on well under 20 psi. Figure 500 hp before boost at the crank. 14 lbs of boost would double that in an ideal world. So let's say 30% loss between the real world and drivetrain. Looks like 700 hp to me.
I agree, the 408 would not need much boost at all to achieve those numbers. My point was the 4.6 could do it for cheaper with less mods and be a much nicer street driven car. It would idle smoother and be more reliable.
If you had to buy the new block and build it up it would cost a bunch more then just taking a 4.6 and slaping some forged internals in it. :shrug:
the new edge technically is a form of the sn, but that doesnt make it an sn. the platform it was built on doesn't make it the same car, there are way more visual similarities between the 4 eye fox and the aero fox than there are between the sn and new edge. i've driven an 02 gt and a 96 gt and the 02 felt better in every category...turning, acceleration :shrug: looks are subjective, you are right. and personal taste is what i base my car buying on anyway since i will be the one driving it. if you ask me, the way the sn's wheels sit in from the factory they look like they are ready to go drive on traintracks.

but anyway, it boils down to preference at the end of the day...

The 99-04 cars are SN95s. There were no chasis changes at all. They even use the same rack and pinion. There is no extra bracing or anything. The springs and shocks even stayed the same if memory serves. The brakes were upgraded in 00 or 01 and yeah the engine got some improvments in 99 but really its only the sheet metal that changed on the outside. :shrug:
 
I cant get past the fact that the 94-98 cars look like a chick car. I have seen a few that I thought look really nice, but for the most part it looks like something college girls ride to the beach in blaring their new Maroon 5 cd. :shrug:

I would love to drop a 4v 4.6 with an IRS into a fox though. that would be bad ass
 
You're stupid. :p

Seriously though, lets look closer at this.
You buy a 96 Cobra for $5000 or a 95 for $4800. Now for the 96 you take out the motor and hone the block as well as slap in some forged pistons and rods ($1000) and get a set of 03/04 heads ($1000) and an 03/04 intercooler setup ($500) and a Whipple 3.4 ($3600) and thats $6100 assuming you do the work yourself. You have a setup that you can run to 900+ rwhp.

With the 408: 351 seasond block ($500), rotating assembly ($1800), block bored and clearenced (I have no idea, $800?), AFR225 heads ($1600+), intake setup ($600), blower of choice with intercooler ($5000) and a cam ($150).
$10450 total.

Am I wrong here?
 
you find me a 96 cobra for 5 grand with a block in decent shape enough to do all that and id question the durability of it. but seriously if you can find any good deals on 96-7-8 cobras shoot them my way! would be MMMMUCH appreciated!!!
 
you find me a 96 cobra for 5 grand with a block in decent shape enough to do all that and id question the durability of it. but seriously if you can find any good deals on 96-7-8 cobras shoot them my way! would be MMMMUCH appreciated!!!
I have found several deals on 96-98s in the 5-7K range in excellent shape reciently but I am trying to get the money together to get one myself so I am not sharing my finds :p

And I am not saying do that kind of power level on the stock internaled block, thats with a rebuild. I have my eye on a 97 with 151K on it for $4500 thats in great running shape and is prolly good for another 50K untill it needs to be rebuilt. It dont matter if the block has 151K on it as long as it hasent been rediculously over heated or shot a rod through it, the block and crank are not going to fail because of the miles. :shrug:


EDIT: Come to think of it there is a crystal white one near me that can be had for 8K and only has 48,000 on the car and 3K on the engine that was built for boost with forged pistons and rods. It does not have a blower right now but still made 330 rwhp :nice:

I will see if I can find that listing for you again. :nice:
 
You're stupid. :p

Seriously though, lets look closer at this.
You buy a 96 Cobra for $5000 or a 95 for $4800. Now for the 96 you take out the motor and hone the block as well as slap in some forged pistons and rods ($1000) and get a set of 03/04 heads ($1000) and an 03/04 intercooler setup ($500) and a Whipple 3.4 ($3600) and thats $6100 assuming you do the work yourself. You have a setup that you can run to 900+ rwhp.

With the 408: 351 seasond block ($500), rotating assembly ($1800), block bored and clearenced (I have no idea, $800?), AFR225 heads ($1600+), intake setup ($600), blower of choice with intercooler ($5000) and a cam ($150).
$10450 total.

Am I wrong here?

Maybe I am stupid.:nice: Now, let's take those same setups like I discussed and instead of taking the 408 to 14 lbs of boost, hit it hard. How about a ysi trim at 28 lbs of boost. That would take that 500 hp motor to 1500 hp.
Most people on here building a car have no need to go over 500 hp and wouldn't know what to do with that if they had it. Not that I'll post final numbers on here, but I'll put it this way. If I don't run very low 11's, high 10's I'll have a real problem with my car and I'll be ordering the renegade pully set and seeing how much boost I can run without splitting the block. Let's do the math, what does it take to make a 96 cobra run 10's... BTW, where do you think you can get the motor honed and get new forged pistons, rods, and rings for 1k?
 
Maybe I am stupid.:nice: Now, let's take those same setups like I discussed and instead of taking the 408 to 14 lbs of boost, hit it hard. How about a ysi trim at 28 lbs of boost. That would take that 500 hp motor to 1500 hp.
Most people on here building a car have no need to go over 500 hp and wouldn't know what to do with that if they had it. Not that I'll post final numbers on here, but I'll put it this way. If I don't run very low 11's, high 10's I'll have a real problem with my car and I'll be ordering the renegade pully set and seeing how much boost I can run without splitting the block. Let's do the math, what does it take to make a 96 cobra run 10's... BTW, where do you think you can get the motor honed and get new forged pistons, rods, and rings for 1k?
Rob, you know I wasnt serious when I called you stupid :rlaugh:
I did forget to add the shop price for the honing. IDK how much that costs but I know the rods and pistons can be had for just under a grand.

As far as the power, if you took everything I said about the Cobra engine and use the same blower you are talking about then the Cobra engine is gonna cap at 1200 hp. The block can handle to 1800 but the crank is only good for 1200 hp. :shrug:
But can a 2 bolt main 351 punched to a 408 handle 1500hp? Thats impressive and I had no idea. I figured they would split around 1000 since a 302 stock block splits at 500ish. :shrug:

As far as a 10 second quarter it takes just over 400 rwhp on one with a drag suspension. Full weight Termis take over 500 rwhp to do it but they nudge 2-tons :ack:
My old 03 Termi Vert had 453 rwhp and my best time was 11.48 on drag radials. They wouldnt let me run any more though. :(