O2 Harness

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The jumper connects the blue/yellow wire to a purple/yellow wire.

If I would jumper it the 89-90 way, it would be like a creamy pink/ purple to purple/yellow

I think that wire is supposed to be white/purple.

In that case, everything you have here is correct in a mass air application. In an automatic application, the Purple/yellow wire would loop to the White/purple wire. In a 5-spd setup, the purple/yellow loops to the blue/yellow.

I believe the scenario that fries the ECM is when the Blue/yellow and White/purple get looped together. I think this might be what you had before? Perhaps you want to open up both ECM's and inspect that trace.

If you can solder, it can be repaired.
 
I think that wire is supposed to be white/purple.

In that case, everything you have here is correct in a mass air application. In an automatic application, the Purple/yellow wire would loop to the White/purple wire. In a 5-spd setup, the purple/yellow loops to the blue/yellow.

I believe the scenario that fries the ECM is when the Blue/yellow and White/purple get looped together. I think this might be what you had before? Perhaps you want to open up both ECM's and inspect that trace.

If you can solder, it can be repaired.

I'll open them up tonight and look at the traces. Would a burnt trace cause the 67 tho?
 
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I'll open them up tonight and look at the traces. Would a burnt trace cause the 67 tho?


Unsure at this point. Usually if it is, you would get a slew of other codes in addition. ECT, TPS, EGR, etc


Quick way to check if the trace is burned without opening up the ECU. Pin 46 is wired to Pin 40 and pin 60 internally. Remove the ECU and touch a multimeter set on resistance between 46&40 and then 46&60. It should be less than 1.5 ohms of resistance
 
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Unsure at this point.


Quick way to check if the trace is burned without opening up the ECU. Pin 46 is wired to Pin 40 and pin 60 internally. Remove the ECU and touch a multimeter set on resistance between 46&40 and then 46&60. It should be less than 1.5 ohms of resistance

10-4

I remember now why I went mechanical and not electrical. Electrical = my progression :scratch::bang::fuss:

So 46/40 < 1.5 ohms
46/60< 1.5 ohms

Hopefully my crappy Harbor Freight DMM works
 
I'm actually an Mech. Engineer, not EE. Electrical was really a side gig for me.

I worked as Electrical during undergrad, but got tired of it. Since graduating went from positions from Mech, to Quality/Auto, to Metrology, then finally Aero. Kind of fluid being a general

This car just was Frankenstein'd through my youth by multiple mechanics (brothers) and EE (father) and now I finally going through it.

Appreciate the help
 
I'll open them up tonight and look at the traces. Would a burnt trace cause the 67 tho?

Yes, because the trace that is burnt, is what is used to let the ecm know if it's in gear or not. Basically when the trans is in neutral or clutch is down, pin 30 at the ecm gets grounded to pin 46. If the trace is burnt, pin 30 can't go to ground. So code 67 and a bunch of other codes get logged. Is code 67 the only code you got?
 
Yes, because the trace that is burnt, is what is used to let the ecm know if it's in gear or not. Basically when the trans is in neutral or clutch is down, pin 30 at the ecm gets grounded to pin 46. If the trace is burnt, pin 30 can't go to ground. So code 67 and a bunch of other codes get logged. Is code 67 the only code you got?

67 was the only new one, 81 82 85 84 are the others due not having any of that stuff on the car
 
Here is the A3M, I didn't see any problem with the trace
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A9L looked fine too
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And I believe this is the plug you were talking about
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So somewhere along the way you lost pin 30.

What color is the wire out of the harness at the EEC for pin 30? LB/yellow, or white/pink?

You can probably just cut to the chase and ground pin 30 and the EEC will always think you are in nuetral. Idle quality should improve and you can dump codes.

If you want to trace it out, pin 30 goes through two different connectors from the ecu. C201, and c350.

According to my EVTM, manual cars had LB/yellow leave the ecu, while autos had white/pink.

C201 is located in same tape out as the self test input. 8-pin plug.
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From there, c350 is located at drivers kick panel. Black 8-pin plug
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That's going to head out under the car and plug into the t5 on top.

On manual cars, the return wire after the jumper is a black with white tracer which connects to pin 47. It will go back through c350 And c202 and then through an additional connector c135.

C135 is located right below the ecu.
0cdbc3472256ae28aaed4a5384998dcf.jpg


Now. With all that said, since you have a few different year harnesses, I'd trace this out and see if the colors match up. With a 5spd, Light blue/yellow is your outgoing wire and black/white is incoming in those plugs I listed.


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Here's c350. I have these two harnesses from unknown year cars. This plug runs out to the transmission from the drivers kick panel. Plug on left is from AOD car and plug on right is from 5spd. Additional 2 wires are for the NGS on top of the t5. You can see in my case, the two wires are light blue/yellow and grey.

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I'm guessing that by having different year harnesses, a color or two may have gotten mixed. Ideally, you want all the harnesses from the same year.


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Pin 30 appears to be the blue/yellow


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47 is like a yellow/white .....maybe brown

I didn't see the the black 8 pin , saw a green 8 pin

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He means the one on the clutch pedal. There are two plugs. One is for the starter disable, and the other should be to pin 30. Blue/yellow wire. If you set your DMM to continuity, and touch one end to pin 30, and the other to the blue/yellow wire, it should ring out. Same should hold true if you test the blue/yellow at any of the other connectors listed.


What year are the harnesses inside the car? 1987? Where I would also check is connector C201 on the driver's apron behind the strut. This is where your 1993 engine harness is pullged into what I assume is the 1987 body harness? If so, are both wires on the plug blue/yellow and plugged into each other? This might be another good spot to pull the connector apart and check for continuity back to pin 30.


For testing purposes, if you pull the two plugs out of the clutch switch, you can jumper them with a simply 5A blade fuse. I'd just jumper the one that leads to pin 30, and not the actual starter disable plug. That will aloe you to continue testing pin 30 without having to press the clutch in each time.
 
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Interesting this I found, and not to confuse you. According to my 1988 EVTM, only the 2.3L wires pin 30 in parallel at the clutch and trans.
abfeefda43074c42058d82b35cf383e2.jpg



On the 5.0, they only show it wired at the trans
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The body harness is original to the car which is a 93 four cylinder auto. The Engine harness is some modified nightmare of what we think is an engine 89/90 harness.

Would it be better just to finish up the chafe repair on the correct 93 Engine harness I bought recently?