Engine question (having someone build me one...making sure he isnt feeding me B.S)
- Thread starter 95CobraStang
- Start date
Shakin66
Founding Member
If you have the $ for the KB S/c I would go for it. I have a centrifical on mine blowing through the carb. and the torque is very impressive but with KB it would be even greater
...I love torque
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/?action=view¤t=Picture006.jpg
...I love torquehttp://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/?action=view¤t=Picture006.jpg
Will a block from DSS or Coast High be stronger?
I highly doubt I will go with the local guy after hearing from all of you
I highly doubt I will go with the local guy after hearing from all of you
Looks great! I think that the intimidation of a supercharger in the engine compartment can't be beat!
I have the funds for a S/C and have already bought the boost and fuel gauges (my twisted logic-- i figure that if I bought the gauges, then I HAD to get the S/C)
I just don't want to go overboard. I want the car to be fun to drive- I dont want to be worried I'm going to lose it everywhere I go
I have the funds for a S/C and have already bought the boost and fuel gauges (my twisted logic-- i figure that if I bought the gauges, then I HAD to get the S/C)
I just don't want to go overboard. I want the car to be fun to drive- I dont want to be worried I'm going to lose it everywhere I go
If you have the $ for the KB S/c I would go for it. I have a centrifical on mine blowing through the carb. and the torque is very impressive but with KB it would be even greater
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d6/scatpro/?action=view¤t=Picture006.jpg
Anything over 500rwhp is on borrowed time for a stock block... and thats on a good tune. DSS is local to me, and i know a lot of peole running them, and have heard no complaints at all. thats who i would go with. only get forged pistons, as the stock crank and such will outlast the block. but if you really wanted to spend the money. look into an aftermarket block... Dart or something.
CAVIAT EMPTOR: Let The Buyer Beware!
When working with any engine builder, make sure you ask for and get a signed build sheet detailing all of the short block and head specs and tolerances. What were the heads torqued to, what gaskets and seals were used, what is the crank end play, what are the valve spring pressures and heights, what is the pushrod length (you get the idea). Your builder should be happy to accommodate you. If not, WALK AWAY!
All of these are important specs that you must demand and have the builder guarantee. If not, and if something goes wrong when you get it home and fire it up, you will have no solid recourse to discuss with your builder. This goes for the big guys (like DSS, CHP and PAW) and the one man shops. The guys at Roush have the right idea with their crate engines...a warentee. Ask a lot of good questions before you place any order. Again, your builder should be happy to accommodate.
There has been many a time where one has expected (without asking) a blueprinted setup only to receive and out of the box product. GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING!
note: the above diatribe based on personal experience
When working with any engine builder, make sure you ask for and get a signed build sheet detailing all of the short block and head specs and tolerances. What were the heads torqued to, what gaskets and seals were used, what is the crank end play, what are the valve spring pressures and heights, what is the pushrod length (you get the idea). Your builder should be happy to accommodate you. If not, WALK AWAY!
All of these are important specs that you must demand and have the builder guarantee. If not, and if something goes wrong when you get it home and fire it up, you will have no solid recourse to discuss with your builder. This goes for the big guys (like DSS, CHP and PAW) and the one man shops. The guys at Roush have the right idea with their crate engines...a warentee. Ask a lot of good questions before you place any order. Again, your builder should be happy to accommodate.
There has been many a time where one has expected (without asking) a blueprinted setup only to receive and out of the box product. GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING!
note: the above diatribe based on personal experience
Let me clarify a few things. All Ford pushrod V8's came with forged rods, ALL of em, no exceptions. Some had better forgings than others, but they're all forged. About the only factory rods I'd suspect are the 90's forgings (F1TE rods) Seen a couple motors that broke these rods in stock applications................................................................................... A very few factory Hi-po V8's had forged pistons. The Boss 302 was one, and it had a habit of cracking the skirts (as did the std cast small block pistons) If you're going to spray it or huff it, by all means go with Forged pistons. Nothing wrong there. Otherwise Hypereutectics are the key to longetivity, cast are OK too. the 289 Hi-po and 428 CJ's had cast pistons, I don't recall any complaints about them because of it.......................................................................... Now, we come to crankshafts.......... Most Ford cast cranks are excellant castings, the only ones I'd avoid are the early 50 oz/in 302/5..0 cranks and the early 80's 255 units.I saw a couple of the 5.0 cranks break in half in stock applications in the mid 80's, so that's why I avoid em. Anything before or after that are excellant castings. All FE cast cranks are bullit proof, just try to break one.
Ditto for the 351W & C cranks, and so too for the 429/460's (I don't have any experience with these but I've never heard any thing bad about them either) Unless you're going to run the Daytona or Talledega race or all out drag race, don't waste your money on a forged Ford crank. Spend the money elsewhere (like a roller cam) I just smile everytime I hear that phrase "All forged internals" 
thx for the advice.. keep it coming!! The more i hear, the more i see that i have no clue about engines. I now rate myself a 1 out of 10... i used to be a 2 out of 10
Take your time shopping and learning. It pays off in the long run. The things I've learned was gleaned from several books, and practical experience collecting and tearing down quite a few Ford V8's over the past 30 years. Built a few in that time too. Wasted a few dollars here and there as well.
95cobrastang....
what kind of power/numbers are you wanting to run? If you let us know, we could probably suggest a better turnkey engine or recommend the parts needed to suit your needs....much cheaper.
what kind of power/numbers are you wanting to run? If you let us know, we could probably suggest a better turnkey engine or recommend the parts needed to suit your needs....much cheaper.
Great idea!
- I would like a 302-331
- I want to strap on Kenne Bell Flowzilla @ 8psi or so
- Looking for 400 or so rwhp and mid 400 for torque
- Also, 8.6:1 compression with a mild enough cam (i want to daily drive this around the city)
thx-
can't wait to see what u guys come up with!
Kyle
- I would like a 302-331
- I want to strap on Kenne Bell Flowzilla @ 8psi or so
- Looking for 400 or so rwhp and mid 400 for torque
- Also, 8.6:1 compression with a mild enough cam (i want to daily drive this around the city)
thx-
can't wait to see what u guys come up with!
Kyle
You can either make those numbers without the blower on a 331 or come damn close starting with a roller block. The 331 I built for my 89 Ranger was near that with Canfield heads (these were on a par with AFR165's) A Ford Z303 cam, 1.7 rockers, Tri-Y headers (for the Shelby Stangs, they fit the Ranger perfectly) Induction was a repop Ford 3x2 with 3 Holley 250 cfm 2 bbls. Tame enough for everyday driving but needed at least midgrade fuel with 10.4 to 1 compression, idled at 6-700 rpms. Pushed the 3800 lb truck to mid 13's in the 1/4, topped in at 140.
LMan
Founding Member
Yes, you can get 400 without forced induction, which would tremendously simplify your build. I'd forego the blower unless you are just dying to have it on there...otherwise it adds cost, complication, and tuning issues you don't really need here.
Cannoball888
New Member
didnt this thread start out as a 347?
If you want those numbers....you really dont need forced induction...as stated above.
Stock Roller Block + machine work+ assembly....$700
AFR 185 Heads....$1450 or $1200 used
Compcams Xe274hr camshaft...$250...$175 used
1.6 Roller Rockers....$150-$250
Hawks racing? Crank....$150
Forged hbeam rods....depending on brand...will depend on price
Forged pistons....same note as rods
Vic Jr Intake....$175 used....$250 new
Speed Demon 750 carb....$450 new
Stepped headers from FPA.....$700 (coated)
Main girdle and windage tray....$200-$500 depending on whose you go with
High Pressure oil Pump...$50
Chromoly pushrods....$85
Rings/bearings/gaskets.....$250
Stock oil pan (or you can buy my 7qt)
MSD Dizzy....$185
Your choice of valve covers
That should put you in the high 300s..low 400s with a good tune. Power sill also depend on how you are putting it to the ground. Now, are these figures you want just for bragging rights or do you intend on running at the track? If you intend on running at the track, you could go with less high end parts and put the money leftover into your suspension and run the same times.
If you want those numbers....you really dont need forced induction...as stated above.
Stock Roller Block + machine work+ assembly....$700
AFR 185 Heads....$1450 or $1200 used
Compcams Xe274hr camshaft...$250...$175 used
1.6 Roller Rockers....$150-$250
Hawks racing? Crank....$150
Forged hbeam rods....depending on brand...will depend on price
Forged pistons....same note as rods
Vic Jr Intake....$175 used....$250 new
Speed Demon 750 carb....$450 new
Stepped headers from FPA.....$700 (coated)
Main girdle and windage tray....$200-$500 depending on whose you go with
High Pressure oil Pump...$50
Chromoly pushrods....$85
Rings/bearings/gaskets.....$250
Stock oil pan (or you can buy my 7qt)
MSD Dizzy....$185
Your choice of valve covers
That should put you in the high 300s..low 400s with a good tune. Power sill also depend on how you are putting it to the ground. Now, are these figures you want just for bragging rights or do you intend on running at the track? If you intend on running at the track, you could go with less high end parts and put the money leftover into your suspension and run the same times.
Yep you're right-- 347. However, I would rather go 302-331.
Here's the deal with the car: I want to get an engine in immediately. This is so I can begin driving. Then, I will begin adding suspension and necessary components so my power isn't completely worthless. So right now I want those #s for bragging rights. However, in the future I'd like to put them to work on the strip.
BTW- I'll be running Ford efi, so no carbs for me.
To answer supercharger questions--
I really want to S/C it. I like the idea of mild manners until I mash the skinny pedal...
Do most disagree with my plan: less N/A power but compensate with boost. Do you all like the N/A route more?
thx for keeping this going
Here's the deal with the car: I want to get an engine in immediately. This is so I can begin driving. Then, I will begin adding suspension and necessary components so my power isn't completely worthless. So right now I want those #s for bragging rights. However, in the future I'd like to put them to work on the strip.
BTW- I'll be running Ford efi, so no carbs for me.
To answer supercharger questions--
I really want to S/C it. I like the idea of mild manners until I mash the skinny pedal...
Do most disagree with my plan: less N/A power but compensate with boost. Do you all like the N/A route more?
thx for keeping this going
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