Vert long tube header thread.. Which ones?

[Pokageek]

Hi guys. On a vert:

#1 Which ones fit better? 1 3/4 or 1 5/8? Big difference in power between the two?
#2 What brands recommended? to watch out for?
#3 Pitfalls and problems installing on a vert? Fitment? clanging? spark plugs easy to get to?
#3 Best method for installing? How not to install?
#4 Anyone see no difference or loss of power?
#5 Chrome or coated? Chrome looks cool...
#6 Spark plug wires hard to route?

Thx.:SNSign:

Here's a start:

#3 Yes to pitfalls...

"fitment problems I did. What i mean is things didn't line up as well as I thought they should have being that there BBK's. Once bolted to the motor didn't line up well with the shortie H pipe. I got it together but it put up a bit of a fight.

The next thing is I don't know about you hard top guy but convertibles have that K support member under the engine. Well it aint going back on after long tubes because they hit on the drivers side.

 

[botlfed306]

I have 1 5/8 on my 94 cobra vert they sucked to put on but well worth it. The driver side i found it easier to put in from under the car. The passenger side was a bitch you have to remove a ton of stuff including the a/c to make room for the to fit but all in all for long tubes it was what i thought it was going to be. I have always had individual tube on my race car so they were easy. The quailty on the bbk i think is good and for the price you cant beat them.

 

[95strokerPSU]

I have BBK 1 5/8" in my 95. They were on the car when I bought it and I only had to uninstall and install them when the engine bay was completely stripped down, so I had no problems. The only fitment issue I have is that the K member brace to longer fits. Go with ceramic over chrome. No problems with spark plug routing, just be carefull that the boots don't touch the header, that happen to me.

 

[Stanger007]

I've got 1 5/8 MAC HTS coated.

Making them fit around the AODE was a pain. Stabbed both in from the bottom. Passenger's side was hardest. Had to have car up high (3+ feet) in the air, take off both mounts, jack engine up till tranny hit tunnel and rock engine to driver's side to get it in.

EGR pipe broke when trying to bend it the 1/10th of an inch it needed to go to mate back up to EGR.

Couldn't get stock oil dipstick back in to save my life even after bending it a bit. Ordered FRPP chrome dipstick but had issues with it as well. Stocker is back in and just ziptied to brake lines at the booster.

Other than that, everything fit well though. Passenger side O2 rides very close to the tranny. All stock braces went back in with no modification. Took 2 full days to swap out LTs and remove old exhaust and put in new (swapped out entire exhaust). Much longer than anticipated. Worth the hassle. I do not want to do it again w/ engine/tranny in car though.

No problems with leaks or whatnot... headers have been on and off a couple times.

Using bolts + lockwashers and FelPro 1415 to hold them down.

Only thing I'd change is doing something about keeping the heat IN the headers... engine bay temps went up a great deal.

Wes

 

[BlackVert]

re #5, chrome looks great but they discolor and rust very quickly

sorry, i have no install notes to add, cause i never got that far

but i do have some 1 3/4" jet-hot coated mac long tubes i'm selling at $350 shipped. they are the long tubes from eades' setup before he went turbo.

i got them when i was collecting parts for the 331 i was going to do. now they are collecting dust

 

[Therian]

An EGR delete may be in order...

I broke mine when trying to get the LTs out of the car. I'd like to find some kind of high temp hosing with the proper threaded connections, but apparently they don't exist.

 

[Stanger007]

An EGR delete may be in order...

I broke mine when trying to get the LTs out of the car. I'd like to find some kind of high temp hosing with the proper threaded connections, but apparently they don't exist.

I think your only option is to cut the copper, put the threaded ends on another piece of tubing and bend/flare it yourself.

I don't have a flare set that large so I just removed the EGR completely and disabled it in the EEC.

You'd probably make a killing if you could find a source for the ends and manufacture a kit of some sort or pre-bent EGR pipes.

The EGR is the biggest pain in my butt on my Mustang. The header side of the EGR is literally stuck on the header. I've heated it and sprayed it and cannot get that sucker off. I've put enough pressure on it to where I'm afraid I'd break the EGR bung off the header. Right now I just have it cut, and the pipe crimped and JB welded until next time I have the header out and can put it in a vice.

 

[Therian]

I'm sure NASA uses plenty of 2000 degree+ hosing.

maybe I should call them and ask...haha