Vortech owners come in please

the98stang

Active Member
Aug 12, 2005
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Clovis, CA
I'm trying to figure out what inlet pipe will work for my Vortech Mini Race (Maxflow) bypass valve. Will the stock Vortech inlet pipe work, or will I need to go with an AFM power pipe? Thanks!

Tanner
 
I am pretty sure (not 100%) that the mini race has to have its mouting flange welded on, which wouldnt be possible to a plastic vortech inlet tube. So i would think you would need a power pipe of some sort thats metal so you can weld it on that.
 
I am pretty sure (not 100%) that the mini race has to have its mouting flange welded on, which wouldnt be possible to a plastic vortech inlet tube. So i would think you would need a power pipe of some sort thats metal so you can weld it on that.

Yes...the valve has to be welded... But it has to be welded to the discharge not the inlet pipe (powerpipe, boost pipe, w/e you wanna call it). The only real problem I see running a mini-race on a stock inlet is that the outlet on the mini-race is larger than stock valve and thus bypass inlet on the inlet pipe which somewhat negates the whole purpose of the larger valve in the first place. Running a high flowing valve with little tubing makes very little sense.

In short, the valve will work, yes. Will it work to its full potential? Probably not. You most likely will not have an issue with it though.
 
I know it needs a flange to connect to the discharge. I already have that. I was just wondering what inlet pipe the mini race outlet could connect to. I don't want to buy an inlet pipe and then find out it won't work with the mini race.
 
I already answered that question lol

The only real problem I see running a mini-race on a stock inlet is that the outlet on the mini-race is larger than stock valve and thus bypass inlet on the inlet pipe which somewhat negates the whole purpose of the larger valve in the first place. Running a high flowing valve with little tubing makes very little sense.

In short, the valve will work, yes. Will it work to its full potential? Probably not. You most likely will not have an issue with it though.
 
You need a bigger bung on the inlet pipe for the return. You also need a new flange welded on the discharge pipe.


I used a greddy style bov/bypass pipe that will also hold the mini race.
Then I welded a bigger return on my AFM powerpipe.

197693_63_full.jpg

bovflange.jpg
 
All this talk of bungs makes me feel kinda gay...

And to answer your question, not that I know of. The Anderson and MPH all have the smaller bung (ok I'm so out of this 'bung' thread...)
 
All this talk of bungs makes me feel kinda gay...

And to answer your question, not that I know of. The Anderson and MPH all have the smaller bung (ok I'm so out of this 'bung' thread...)

lmfao... "I want TP for me 'bung' hole"

would the car run like poo if I got a hose with 2 different sized ends (one for the inlet pipe, one for the bypass)?
 
Atleast they arent calling it "bongs" ...iv made that mistake a few times in the past and everyone quickly corrected my spelling :rlaugh:

All you need to do is pull the pipe and take it and the larger bung to a welder....shouldnt charge you much to remove the old on and weld in the new one. (get a quote) Our local welder would tig it for $30 easy. (30$/HR)
 
lmfao... "I want TP for me 'bung' hole"

would the car run like poo if I got a hose with 2 different sized ends (one for the inlet pipe, one for the bypass)?

Probably not, seeing as you're not going to be running alot of boost on a stock block - you should be OK. If there are any stuttering or bucking issues just fix it ;) Like I said, it will work, but might not work "the best".
 
I actually threaded a 1" long piece of threaded steel pipe into my powerpipe, I think it was 1.25" wide. Then JB welded around where it was screwed in to the pipe. I used a special drill bit for making large holes, that was the same size as the pipe.

Of course welding is a better option!