After a few years of my stroke i am back in to my favorite theraphy.. My 65 vert project! 3 years have pass since the begining and i have enjoy watching my body man,and son build up my stang one stept at a time. 90% of body/compact metal was replaced and a beutifull signal flare red color covers it now.
While the brakes were been installed a small problem came up and still i haven't figure a way to solve it.
First some info on what's on the car brake system.
Front original Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers,
Russell braided lines in front and rear,
Brand New Rear Crown Victoria calipers attached with 1993 Toyota Corolla front caliper brake hoses and custom build Stainless Steel Hose Brackets,
Custom build parking brake cable and adjuster, MBM 7" single diafragm booster with custom made fire wall braket and custom made adjustable push rod,
MBM Chrome Aluminum 1.0" bore dual master Cyl. and MBM Combination Valve (GM Style) for 4 wheel disc brakes.
All metal lines are 3/16" stainless steel and i have installed one man Russell brake bleeders in the front Kelsey Hayes calipers.
The problem is that after bleeding the system (Bled with Snap-On pressure tank) i have a very long travel in the pedal before it starts to engage. Pedal distance from the floor is 6 3/4" while in my 66 GT is only 4" but the pedal rest at the rubber bumper in the hanger assembly.
I was told that increasing the master cyl bore to 1 1/8" will correct this but i am not to sure about it since it's almost 3" of additional travel that have to be eliminated.
Another guy said that by moving the clevis pin on the pedal down will cause the ratio to be corrected but this is imposible because the booster rod is the screw type hat can't be bended down or up to compensate for the new angle.
Re-using the old booster bracket is also imposible because the total lenght of the bracket/booster/master cyl is so long that it hit's the shock tower.
So my dilema is what route to go and if any one here has change the bore of the master cyl. , what has been the total distance shortened by the change and what was the bore size used? I saw Mustang Steve Clevis Pin Mod but is for the flat push rod that moves up and down. Mine is the round threaded rod without the swing arm in the bracket.
On the other hand the 1992 Crown Victoria Calipers were installed and one was looking towards the front and the other to the rear this is because the same part number is used on both brackets for left and right. I decided to invert the bracket in the passenger side so both caliper were set in the rear but at the expense of having to remove that caliper at bleeding time due to the fact that the bleeder screw sits at the bottom in the installed position. Has any one here done the Crown Victoria Conversion and tell me what was the final caliper positions?
Any sugestions or opinions are gladly appreciated
As allways thanks in advance for all your great help and assistance.
Andrew
While the brakes were been installed a small problem came up and still i haven't figure a way to solve it.
First some info on what's on the car brake system.
Front original Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers,
Russell braided lines in front and rear,
Brand New Rear Crown Victoria calipers attached with 1993 Toyota Corolla front caliper brake hoses and custom build Stainless Steel Hose Brackets,
Custom build parking brake cable and adjuster, MBM 7" single diafragm booster with custom made fire wall braket and custom made adjustable push rod,
MBM Chrome Aluminum 1.0" bore dual master Cyl. and MBM Combination Valve (GM Style) for 4 wheel disc brakes.
All metal lines are 3/16" stainless steel and i have installed one man Russell brake bleeders in the front Kelsey Hayes calipers.
The problem is that after bleeding the system (Bled with Snap-On pressure tank) i have a very long travel in the pedal before it starts to engage. Pedal distance from the floor is 6 3/4" while in my 66 GT is only 4" but the pedal rest at the rubber bumper in the hanger assembly.
I was told that increasing the master cyl bore to 1 1/8" will correct this but i am not to sure about it since it's almost 3" of additional travel that have to be eliminated.
Another guy said that by moving the clevis pin on the pedal down will cause the ratio to be corrected but this is imposible because the booster rod is the screw type hat can't be bended down or up to compensate for the new angle.
Re-using the old booster bracket is also imposible because the total lenght of the bracket/booster/master cyl is so long that it hit's the shock tower.
So my dilema is what route to go and if any one here has change the bore of the master cyl. , what has been the total distance shortened by the change and what was the bore size used? I saw Mustang Steve Clevis Pin Mod but is for the flat push rod that moves up and down. Mine is the round threaded rod without the swing arm in the bracket.
On the other hand the 1992 Crown Victoria Calipers were installed and one was looking towards the front and the other to the rear this is because the same part number is used on both brackets for left and right. I decided to invert the bracket in the passenger side so both caliper were set in the rear but at the expense of having to remove that caliper at bleeding time due to the fact that the bleeder screw sits at the bottom in the installed position. Has any one here done the Crown Victoria Conversion and tell me what was the final caliper positions?
Any sugestions or opinions are gladly appreciated
As allways thanks in advance for all your great help and assistance.
Andrew