School me on Caster/Camber Plates

HaynStang

New Member
Dec 16, 2006
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Portland
I thought I had been getting away with running my lowered stang without CC plates, but apparently not... I just noticed that the inside edge of my front tires have been wearing like crazy. If I don't do something my front tires are going to be ruined. :mad:

So I know I need c/c plates, but I have no idea which ones to go with. This car is my daily driver and sees 10-15k miles a year. Am I going to have signifigantly more noise, vibration or harshness with c/c plates using a spherical bearing versus ones with polyurethane bushings? How long do those bearings tend to last on street cars?

Who even makes a reasonably priced c/c plate with poly bushings... BBK maybe? The Hotchkis ones are way out of my budget. I need to stay under $180 but hopefully cheaper.

If c/c plates with spherical bearings would be fine for my application, then which ones should I go with? I know everyone loves the MM plates, but are they really worth the extra money, or are you just paying for the name? Is there something cheaper that will work just as good? The UPR steel plates are only $120... are they any good? Or Mac/Pro3i/Summit/etc for around $150 or so?
 
Well, I thought I had been getting away with running my lowered 'stang without CC plates, but I was wrong. I was under the car the other day and noticed the inside edge of my front tires are wearing like crazy. The driver's side is particularily bad and if I don't do something my front tires are going to be ruined. :mad:

So I know I need c/c plates, but I have no idea which ones to go with. This car is my daily driver and sees 10-15k miles a year. Am I going to have signifigantly more noise, vibration or harshness with c/c plates using a spherical bearing versus ones with polyurethane bushings? How long do those bearings tend to last on street cars?

Who even makes a reasonably priced c/c plate with poly bushings... BBK maybe? The Hotchkis ones are way out of my budget. I need to stay under $180 but hopefully cheaper.

If c/c plates with spherical bearings would be fine for my application, then which ones should I go with? I know everyone loves the MM plates, but are they really worth the extra money, or are you just paying for the name? Is there something cheaper that will work just as good? The UPR steel plates are only $120... are they any good? Or Mac/Pro3i/Summit/etc for around $150 or so?

if you want to go as cheap as possible, then have the alignment shop elongate out the stock shock tower holes as long as your negative camber isnt too extreme.
 
I just got my MM 4 bolt plates installed and I don't hear any noise from the spherical bearings. They may be a little more expensive but it's only a few extra bucks. Take into account the good looks and they are still well worth the money. However, I guess the UPR plates would work just as good. Just dont have the looks of the MM plates.
 
lol - you don't buy MM stuff "for the name." It isn't Calvin Klein or or DKNY. Maximum Motorsports has the reputation they do because their stuff is strong and functions the way it should. They're grassroots racers who run what they build - a lot. Check out their website.

If you plan on keeping the car long, MaxMo is the way to go. After them, prolly Steeda is your best alternative. Both these outfits know their 'Stangs.
 
We make the camber plates for Pro3i. We use only high quality parts in ours such as alloy steel main plates, Class 2 fit FK bearing which are heat treated chrome moly Teflon line bearings (with a lifetime guarantee), bearing cups are machined to a tolerance of +or- .0002", powder coated black. I can tell you that the overpriced name brand everybody talks about now uses the same powder coat company we do along with a lot of the same laser cutting companies and bearing suppliers. Good luck on your purchase.
 
You're calling Maximum Motorsports an overpriced name brand? They could probably do the opposite and call you guys a no-name brand that simply rips off their designs. The "Professional Products" of suspension components.
 
Things to avoid:
CC plates made from aluminum in any form. They are weaker than a steel plate.
CC plates with a rubber bushing. The rubber bushing will delect under load.

Things to get:
CC plates made from high quality steel.
CC plates with lifetime warranty spherical bearings.
 
Things to avoid:
CC plates made from aluminum in any form. They are weaker than a steel plate.
CC plates with a rubber bushing. The rubber bushing will delect under load.

Things to get:
CC plates made from high quality steel.
CC plates with lifetime warranty spherical bearings.

damn...i have the wrong ones. probably doesnt help my nice front end shake at highway speeds. ive eliminated many...many things that couls cause it lol