351W...for FREE!

[ShAkE N BaKe!!]

First im givin a welder for free, now a 351w block! Man, this week cant get any better I stop by my uncles house and we were talking in his garage, I seen a block coverd with a blanket and a buch of junk. I asked him what it was and he told me it was a 351w. So i checked it out and turns out its out of a 1972 block. Then he popped out the question, Do you want it? I immediately said " HELL YA!" I always planned on having a 351 stroked out to a 393 or 408, but as i got home I started thinking, will 400-500hp twist my body? This car will be a daily driver and I can already see myself in the fututre wanting to step up to camaros and eating'em for breakfast.. I hope
I currently have a 289 with just a few mods nothing spectacular just carb, ignition system, intake and exhaust. Would you guys just stroke out the 289 to a 347 or get the 351 and stroke it out to a 393 or 408? Remember that this is going to be a daily so what do you guys think ill be happy with?

 

[351w_swap]

I thought mine was going to be a daily driver too but look at my pics of progress thread i just posted and you will see what happened (sort of). I bought a 351w but it cost me 2000 for a long block from PAW so you got a heck of a deal. I would put in subframe connectors and a 408. Don't go too radical like a blower or high compression and you will maintain reliability, especially if you have it professionally built. I wish my welder had been free, oh wait i got my dad to buy it for me to use haha. good luck in deciding

 

[blown65]

If I remember right you can do some real budget 393 builds.

I wouldnt go any further than 408 if it was me. (Our 72 Pantera has a 408 in it and love it. )

 

[mysavioreigns]

man, I need to come hang out with you and get some free stuff...

 

[ratio411]

You can build a fresh 393w for about the same as a regular rebuild.
I would go that route...
Much cheaper than the 347, and more power. No replacement for displacement.
Dave

Oh yeah, you can build more streetable power from a larger engine too. Since you say it is a driver...
A 347 would be less streetable at the same power level of a perfectly streetable 393.

 

[ShAkE N BaKe!!]

all the 393 kits that i see are about $900+. Where can i find on around the same price as a rebuild kit?

 

[rhyno9]

cast stroker crank with a 3.850-inch stroke .030 cylinder overbore, stock length 351W connecting rods, and stock-type 302 pistons =

393 cubic inches.

 

[ratio411]

That's the point of the 393... You DON'T NEED A KIT.
The folks selling kits are just looking for uninformed buyers.

If you rebuild an engine, you generally need new pistons and the crank needs worked.
With the 393, you just get 'off the shelf' 302 pistons (mild to wild, your choice), toss the old crank, and pick up a cast steel 393 stroker crank.
Put some ARP bolts in your stock rods, maybe polish the beams if you are motivated, then you're done.
Dave

 

[ShAkE N BaKe!!]

ya but i need a kit because all i got is just the block

 

[rhyno9]

ya but i need a kit because all i got is just the block

so what's the price difference for 351 kit or a 393 kit?

 

[Rusty67]

I've been poking around briefly because I too just got a free 351w. I was looking at the stroker crank and it seems they want me to use Chevy rods ? Is there an affordable crank out there that would let me use Ford rods ?

 

[65ShelbyClone]

so what's the price difference for 351 kit or a 393 kit?

If you have to buy the rotating assembly anyway, then maybe $100 difference tops.

I have a freebie 351W shortblock and was comparing 351 vs 393 costs and the only special part I need is the 393 crank.

Rusty- There are quite a few sources for affordable cast 393 cranks that use the stock rods. I think Summit has them and fordstrokers.com comes to mind. Less than $300 for a 393 with 2.311 rod journals.

 

[ratio411]

When I say you don't need a kit, I mean you don't have to settle for someone else's idea of price/quality when buying it all together.
You can put your own together because all the parts are extremely common and inexpensive separately.
If you have the block, then the only part that you need to pay extra for over a stock rebuild is the rods. Everything else would be replaced anyway.
If you can get a set of 8 rods, consider ARP bolts a must. Then polish the beams if you want a little extra. Or you could get Summit's 'worked' stock rods for about 3 bills and be done with it. Polished, bolts, bushes, balanced, and ready to go.

 

[65mistress]

What kind of hp and torque will you see with a mild set of pistons with the 3.850 crank? If you were to balance the rotating assembly could you squeeze any more?

 

[rhyno9]

What kind of hp and torque will you see with a mild set of pistons with the 3.850 crank? If you were to balance the rotating assembly could you squeeze any more?

It all depends on the package. Heads and cam will transform any engine.

All assemblies should be balanced. The cost of the balance is insignificant compared to the cost of redoing the rebuild the thing rattled itself to pieces.

RV

 

[bnickel]

crank

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SCA-9351W10&autoview=sku

rods

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP-5956FP&autoview=sku

pistons

these are a hypereutectic style which would be fine for a street engine unless plan on bottle feeding it or going over 400-450hp or so

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRW-8KH273CP30&autoview=sku