My B&M Hammer shifter Vids

Your video made me want that shifter so bad!!!! I saw it on youtube before I realized you were on here and my questions about it got answered.
I just got my built trans in and I will be installing it and a trans cooler this weekend. I wish I had this shifter to go with it.

The only other thing I want to know is about the handle. Is the quiksilver an option or did you have to buy that seperate. Would any 5 spd shift knob fit on it?

Thanks

The quicksilver handle was bought seperatley from summitracing, it comes w/ the one pictured. I have no idea if manual knobs will fit, and iv wondered this myself too. I still like the knob i have regardless tho.
 
is it just me, or are the shifts delayed by about 2 seconds? looks interesting, but i don't think it would work for me.
They are delayed because the shifter doesn't really make it an equivalent of a manual valve body. The auto trans shifter will shift when:

- the right speed (MPH) based on the throttle position (TP) is reached

AND

- the shifter position will allow the next gear

Let's say you're in 1st and you floor it. If you're in "D" which allows upshifting to any gear, it will shift into 2nd when it reaches the MPH for the TP. If the car gets to the designated MPH for the current TP but the shifter is in "1", it will not shift into 2nd. Once you pop it into "2" it will upshift. However, if you pop it into "2" before reaching the MPH, it won't shift. Both conditions have to be satisfied for it to shift. What you're seeing in the video is the shifter is getting bumped up into the next gear before the MPH/TP is reached. Bumping the shifter really means "allow upshift when the EEC is ready" not "upshift now!"

One solution is to set all your shift points really low using an Xcal. Then use the B&M Hammer Shifter to shift. Having the shift points set low will ensure the first condition is satisfied and the EEC will be waiting for you to bump the shifter up. The downside is if you drive in "D", it will keep shifting early.
 
Thats what I was trying to say except you made it sound better. lol
I looked on B&M's website and the 5-spd shift knobs are different. I guess I will buy the quicksilver knob at the same time I buy the shifter. We have a summit racing store about 15 min from where I live so I will be buying this soon.

This shifter will be fun with my new valve body.
 
Do you have any other mods besides the torque converter, 3.73's, PI intake, and plenum/tb? I saw the first vid that said much more and was curious.

power wise? Not a lot more, more like much more general car mods. Besides those, Steeda underdrive pulleys, a reworked Steeda CAI. The X-pipe and side pipes. A reflashed X-Cal2 tune.
new coil packs, spark plug wires and the correct spark plugs actually helped too:nice: But that's all i can think of
 
That is almost the same exact mods I have now. I have the 3.73's, PI intake, Accufab plenum/tb, Mac CAI, o/r x, magnaflows, and my stage 3 trans from BC Automotive is going in this weekend. They build awesome transmissions.

In about a month I am getting a 4200 stall converter from DirtyDog Performance.
The only thing left that I haven't had built is the motor and I have an aluminum shortblock sitting waiting on forged pistons and rods and a lil shot o nitrous:D
Picking up my PI heads this weekend too.

Did that torque converter make a big difference for you? I have heard that they are an awesome for any auto.
 
They are delayed because the shifter doesn't really make it an equivalent of a manual valve body. The auto trans shifter will shift when:

- the right speed (MPH) based on the throttle position (TP) is reached

AND

- the shifter position will allow the next gear

Let's say you're in 1st and you floor it. If you're in "D" which allows upshifting to any gear, it will shift into 2nd when it reaches the MPH for the TP. If the car gets to the designated MPH for the current TP but the shifter is in "1", it will not shift into 2nd. Once you pop it into "2" it will upshift. However, if you pop it into "2" before reaching the MPH, it won't shift. Both conditions have to be satisfied for it to shift. What you're seeing in the video is the shifter is getting bumped up into the next gear before the MPH/TP is reached. Bumping the shifter really means "allow upshift when the EEC is ready" not "upshift now!"

One solution is to set all your shift points really low using an Xcal. Then use the B&M Hammer Shifter to shift. Having the shift points set low will ensure the first condition is satisfied and the EEC will be waiting for you to bump the shifter up. The downside is if you drive in "D", it will keep shifting early.


thanks, but i'm well aware of that. i have been tuning my own car for about 4 years now.
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I don't ever recall seeing that knob. I had a B&M Quicksilver in my '66 F100 and the knob wasn't like that.... That one's cool! I am preparing to put an AODE in my '89 GT (turbo'd 357W), and I've been trying to decide on a shifter. I know I'll need to replace the handle because I want knob with a button for my linelock. I did see the standard one with the button, but I didn't see one like what you have...:shrug:

Good vids!:nice:
 
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I don't ever recall seeing that knob. I had a B&M Quicksilver in my '66 F100 and the knob wasn't like that.... That one's cool! I am preparing to put an AODE in my '89 GT (turbo'd 357W), and I've been trying to decide on a shifter. I know I'll need to replace the handle because I want knob with a button for my linelock. I did see the standard one with the button, but I didn't see one like what you have...:shrug:

Good vids!:nice:

thanks!
i dont see it under quicksilver at summit anymore, but this is it: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM-80534&N=700+115&autoview=sku