Yea, everyone assumes the covers are the problem, when in reality only contact point is the baffles. I tried clearancing the baffles, but never though of heating them. The rivets worked loose after the ball peening. I know one guy who can do good tig work, but he's always snowed under to ask him to get to these. He's the only one around who I'd trust to do this. Last thing I'd need is a loose baffle or welding beads floating around in the oil.
To anyone I suggested using an RTV coated bolt in the dipstick hole..............
- Thread starter D.Hearne
- Start date
69gmachine
Member
Another way to gain clearance is to cut the tops off of a set of cast valve covers you pick up cheap at a swap meet. Use the flange as a spacer. The ones I'm using are 3/8" thick and you can't even tell they're there. I used orange hi temp RTV to seal them directly to the heads and then a regular cork gasket between the spacer and VCs. They provide just enough clearance for the baffle with Comp Magnum steel roller rockers and poly locks. I'm using the chrome reproduction '69 Power by Ford valve covers for an almost stock look. It's kinda like the dress up kit for the 428 CJ but for a 408 W instead.
I'll keep that in mind. I just bought a set of those covers too, just didn't want to ding em up clearancing the baffles. I test fit em, but they just didn't quite clear the rockers. The Moroso's look like plain Ford covers, no logo to tell you different. Got a set of plain chrome covers on the Ranger's 5.0, these came with a parts car. Two filler holes in each cover. No name brand though to tell who's they are. I used the extra holes to good use, rigged a dual PCV system that draws from the front holes into the carb base, the rears are linked with a "T" with hose and I used one of those "ricer" breather element oil plug caps to filter the incoming air, that's hidden behind the 4 bbl's aircleaner. These covers also clear the 1.7 Cobra roller rockers on the heads.
Yea I know, but ain't about to spend another $150 for them either.
All the one's I've seen are too tall anyway. All over an inch. All that's needed is maybe 1/4-1/2" to clear the baffles on most.
Tim65GT
Active Member
Hack
15 Year Member
You do know that "RTV" is nothing but an abreveation for "room temprature vulcanizing" don't you?
skywalker
Member
You do know that "RTV" is nothing but an abreveation for "room temprature vulcanizing" don't you?
Yes. I do. Vulcanized rubber breaks down under petroleum.
It isn't rubber. And I have used various brands of clear RTV to seal cork valve cover gaskets. I cover them in a thin layer and then RTV them to the covers. Allow this to sit for 2 days and you can remove the covers again and again. Mine have been in place for 6 years. No leaks. And go check-out the high temp RTV used by Harley-Davidson 31 years ago to seal the lower cases on Sportsters. Orange RTV that has been there on my bike since I bought it in March, 1977 without the 1st leak.
Now...is oil a petroleum product or have I been misled for 59 yeras?
69gmachine
Member
guess I need to hit some cruise-ins this summer
If it'll add to the pleasure it has always been Chevy-only guys who took the bait.
skywalker
Member
High Temp RTV is a different story - although is DOES still break down from petroleum, just takes longer. Those lower cases develop leaks eventually - just like anything else sealed with RTV. The oil is not in constant contact with the RTV. In fact if put together properly, it's not in contact with it, just like when you seal a timing cover or an oil pan with RTV and a gasket. But if you put RTV around a bolt in the OIL DIPSTICK BUNG, it's going to CONSTANTLY be coming into contact with RTV. The oil WILL break the RTV down.
I use a variety on chemicals on helicopters, including RTV and high temp RTV. Anywhere that petroleum is used, we do not use RTV, we use binary chemicals that when mixed will have a similar wet consistency to RTV and will settle to a similar consistency to RTV, but they are not RTV. One I mentioned earlier is Mil-S-8802. It's used around places on gearboxes that may leak oil. And the RTV we use is no different than the stuff you get at autozone, and I've even had to go to autozone to buy some in a pinch.
RTV is breaks down in petrol. Period. If you want something sealed from a petroleum product, don't use RTV. It won't work. It may last a day, a week a month a year of 30 years, but eventually, with enough oil contact, that RTV will leak. You can argue with me til the cows come home, but RTV breaks down in oil. If it is a unary room temperature vulcanizing chemical, then it does not like oil.
Let me understand this....after 31 YEARS and 160,000 miles without a leak......I need to be worried that I'm going out on Saturday morning to take the Sporty out for a run and the RTV will have failed...again...after 31 YEARS (are YOU 31 years old?) and should this happen (I doubt after 31 YEARS I have anything to worry about) it will be because RTV shouldn't be used in the manner Harley-Davidson used it. Am I correct in that assesment?
I guess if you left solid brass in water for 160,000 years it MIGHT deterriorate and you could draw the conclusion that water destroys brass..........but you get MY point. After 31 years in oil without a leak I think you may be required to modify your stance.
Just returned from the garage and I quote from a card for Permatex ULTRA-BLACK RTV gasket maker:
"improved oil resistance" and is recommended for valve covers and oil pans as a gasket maker. But, hey, it will break down in 30+ years so you shoulodn't use it.
