1990 On3 Turbo Build/Review

BryanNux

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May 15, 2015
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Hello there, first post on here for me. Iv'e been a thread creeper on here though for years. I recently finished up my on3 install last week in between training and my upcoming deployment this week(sad I cant enjoy the car more) I just want to take some time and give my quick opinion on how the kit is overall and what worked or didn't work for me during the install. My car has unknown bottom end and heads, b303, edlebrock performer intake, 47lbs injectors, 3.73 gears out back with a t5, megasquirt ecu.

Upon receiving my kit I conducted a full layout of all the items for inspection, everything that was ordered was there and in serviceable condition. Additional items I ordered from on3 were there y-pipekit, extra vac lines which came in handy, vac block, heat blankets for the down pipe and turbo, afr and boost gauge, and a 340lph fuel pump. I was hoping there would be a general set of instructions with the kit to follow, not sure if they don't include it in the kit or if it just fell through the cracks so I followed along with the hellion instructions online. They really need to include a 3/8 npt tap for the oil pan, I went to numerous different stores looking for one and finally found one at a huge plumbing store. The first thing I did was drop the hot side pipes off at a local shop to be ceramic coated which I highly recomend. They forgot about my order while I was away for training and coated them free of charge for me. I then started disassembly of the car, hood, bumper, intake and all that jazz. I had bbk longtubes and had to remove the steering shaft and stater to allow them to drop out the bottom. After all the ancillary items were removed from the engine I conducted a quick cleaning before assembly. I probably test fitted the entire hot side piping 3 or 4 times just to be certain. I ditched the manifold gaskets and ran a bead of copper rtv around each port. One thing that helped me with the manifolds was removing the two motor mount bolts, jacking the engine up, pushing it away from the working side and sliding a wooden wedge in the motor mount. helped give me plenty of room to maneuver the manifold and start all the bolts without globing rtv everywhere. I also recommend leaving the intake off until at least the pass manifold is on. I ditched the turbo to mani gasket as well and just ran rtv on that as well. Snaked the downpipe in and bolted it up, it hangs pretty low but my car is probably to low as well. I used small door springs to attach the thermal blankets to the downpipe. Tapping the oil pan sketched me out a little at first but ended up being pretty easy, I used a few small punches at first then used a plumb bob to enlarge the hole. I ordered a few additional parts from lmr about midway through that I had forgotten, a fuel pressure gauge for under hood, reflective heat tape, spark plug boot protectors, ac delete/PS pump relocation bracket(also wish it came with some instructions) breather style oil filter cap, and the 90 degree oil filter adapter because the relocation kit is trash from what ive heard. after relocating the alternator and PS pump I measured for a new belt and picked up a 67-3/4 belt from orielys that worked perfectly. I did multiple runs to lowes and the auto parts store for hardware items, flat 1inch iron to fab brackets for the intercooler, vac caps and fittings for the plumbing of the oil feed lines and fuel gauge. The cold side piping gave me the most difficulty out of everything with all the test fitting and adjusting or making new intercooler brackets. I had to enlarge the hole in the fender where the pipe feeding the intake comes through with a reciprocating saw. The 90 degree elbow was giving me a hard time as well, had to use a Dremel to remove some rubber on the inside diameter of the elbow and use a heat gun to soften it up to slide it over my throttle body. below my radio I made two holes in the faceplate and wired in the afr and boost gauge.

All in all it wasn't a bad install even after spilling half a gallon of gas on my garage floor(didn't have any help for the entirety of the install) Its definitely an affordable kit for boost I recommend taking your time and do not be in a rush, I know its hard. Double and triple check everything for tightness, make sure nothing will be affected be the extra heat and hot components, and ziptie everything down vac lines, wires, etc. I used ziplock bags with labels on the front for every nut and bolt that came off to help keep accountability of what went where. Additionally install the park plugs before permanently installing the manifolds, tough to get too with the piping in the way. After starting double check everything for leaks and let it warm up before test driving to ensure everything is kosher. I loaded up the base tune with megasquirt and fired up and idled first try, sat a little high for about 20 seconds then came down. I drove around for about 25 mins using VEAL saving the tune as I went and its runs pretty well. Little on the rich side until I get it tuned, also my timing light is shot so I have yet to verify any timing at the crank but the AFR's are great and safe even in boost, also only running the stock 7psi wastegate spring. Only issue im having is starting it up after its at operating temp it doesn't seem to want to fire up, so ill load the base tune to start it sometimes and then immediately load in the tune ive been working on. The car is a blast to drive and will probably need new tires here soon with all the added fun : ) If anyone has any questions about the kit or install just let me know.
 

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John Dirks Jr

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Thanks for serving our country. Hope you have a safe return. I'm looking forward to your report once everything is dialed in.
 

90sickfox

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Just FYI the 94- 95 upper radiator hose will get it off the turbo ( I used a sink drain 90° on my factory hose ). If that filter has the little metal cap on the inside throw it away or run a bolt and washer through it to secure it. Turbos don't like eating little metal thingies.

That plumb bob idea saved my life when I did mine. A91what has been doing all my tuning. These things are fun aren't they....lol
 

BryanNux

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May 15, 2015
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please provide a copy of the tune you are running, I will double check you for sanity. :D

ok thanks I should probably get the timing light and verify it but I leave in two days so it'll wait 9 months...:O_o:
 

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BryanNux

Member
May 15, 2015
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Just FYI the 94- 95 upper radiator hose will get it off the turbo ( I used a sink drain 90° on my factory hose ). If that filter has the little metal cap on the inside throw it away or run a bolt and washer through it to secure it. Turbos don't like eating little metal thingies.

That plumb bob idea saved my life when I did mine. A91what has been doing all my tuning. These things are fun aren't they....lol

I went to advance they didn't have the hose so I just shortened mine by an inch or so. Ill check the filter this evening. And yes its a lot of fun, maybe a little too much. when I get back ill put on the boost controller and run 10-12 and take her to the dyno
 

Anti_Hero0932

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looks good! looks alot like my car. i just put a similar intake on my car as well. cant wait to actually drive the thing!

@a91what will hook you up on the tune man he has helped me alot!
 

a91what

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Ok so some quick suggestions, your IGN table is sketchy and the timing transitions are not very smooth. too little timing in cruise and too much emphasis on the KPA ranges you wont drive in much.
The VE table has too much emphasis on the boost range and the AFR table is messy.

These things above may not be noticable until you start to really drive the car alot, they show up as quirkyness or awkwardness in the tune.
Before you do any further tuning you also need to get the injector dead time settings correct... this is paramount to a good tune.

If you want specifics I can dive deep into things. check out my tuning threads for info
 

BryanNux

Member
May 15, 2015
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Ok so some quick suggestions, your IGN table is sketchy and the timing transitions are not very smooth. too little timing in cruise and too much emphasis on the KPA ranges you wont drive in much.
The VE table has too much emphasis on the boost range and the AFR table is messy.

These things above may not be noticable until you start to really drive the car alot, they show up as quirkyness or awkwardness in the tune.
Before you do any further tuning you also need to get the injector dead time settings correct... this is paramount to a good tune.

If you want specifics I can dive deep into things. check out my tuning threads for info

I appreciate it, yea any suggestions I’ll def take and work them out. I got one more day I can fiddle around with that it tomorrow some.
 

a91what

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I appreciate it, yea any suggestions I’ll def take and work them out. I got one more day I can fiddle around with that it tomorrow some.
Your leaving out for 9 months huh? Service related? If that's the case I can make some changes for you so you can review them. Will take me all of 5 mins.
 

BryanNux

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May 15, 2015
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Your leaving out for 9 months huh? Service related? If that's the case I can make some changes for you so you can review them. Will take me all of 5 mins.

yes sir, heading to the middle east. That would be awesome ill throw it in the car in the morning
 

BryanNux

Member
May 15, 2015
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You have hot start issues? I can fix that easy, send the datalog once at work to me, don't run autotune.

yea once its fully warm and I shut it off, it will crank but wont start. Then Ill load the base tune that came with the ecu and itll start, then I switch back to my current tune. Or wait until it cools and itll start. laptop stays in the car lol.
want me to datalog the drive to work?
 
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