Control Arm Bushings

[tderrick]

I'm way into the front end of my car and I thought I might as well replace
the front lower control arm bushings while I'm in.

Any special tool to get the old ones out??

Any replacement bushings superior to others??

thanks!!

 

[BREWTUS428CJ]

Use polyurethane, Energy makes a kit 43144G (black) or 43144R (red)-(faster) you sould be able to get em for around $50.00
No special tools required.

 

[HISSIN50]

You could be better off getting some Terminator arms and calling it good. This is especially true if you're going to renew the ball joints.

Swapping the Front LCA bushing is a bit of a PITA. I'd use Terminator bushings or poly.

Good luck.

 

[tderrick]

Use polyurethane, Energy makes a kit 43144G (black) or 43144R (red)-(faster) you sould be able to get em for around $50.00
No special tools required.

What do mean by Red being faster??

 

[tderrick]

You could be better off getting some Terminator arms and calling it good. This is especially true if you're going to renew the ball joints.

Swapping the Front LCA bushing is a bit of a PITA. I'd use Terminator bushings or poly.

Good luck.

I didn't think about the ball joints... I'm sure they're worn also...

How much for the Terminator arms ('03 Cobra I assume) ??

They must be a direct replacement??

 

[BREWTUS428CJ]

Red bushings make your car faster than black ones, much like a big "R" sticker on the hood would make your car scoot. Or a big ol' wing on the back, those are good for at least 40hp.
Seriously tho, any polyurethane is better than the factory rubber, it is more difficult to compress, so it reduces unwanted movement at the arm in hard corners.
Hissin50 is correct, it would be easier to just swap in some kickass control arms, and they should come with poly anyways.

 

[hollywoodstang]

Red bushings make your car faster than black ones, much like a big "R" sticker on the hood would make your car scoot. Or a big ol' wing on the back, those are good for at least 40hp.
Seriously tho, any polyurethane is better than the factory rubber, it is more difficult to compress, so it reduces unwanted movement at the arm in hard corners.
Hissin50 is correct, it would be easier to just swap in some kickass control arms, and they should come with poly anyways.

WTF?! Nice joke...

I use 03-04 Cobra control arms with steeda bushing and x2 ball joints with no spacer with 95 cobra R springs from ford racing. The ride is harsh and you feel everything on the road. I hate it on the street but love it on the freeway. Just a thought.

 

[HISSIN50]

I am actually not a huge fan of poly. It's almost as stiff as Delrin but still suffers from deflection.

The Terminator arms have bushings with a greater durometer rating than our OEM bushings. I dont find myself desiring anything stiffer. Terminator arms are a great deal at $160-ish.

Good luck.

 

[tderrick]

I've been getting inner tire wear / feathering on the front.

Do you think replacing the LCA's alone should remedy that? Should I do the uppers
also?

I already have a bullit kit in place (springs, shocks and bars)

 

[HISSIN50]

I've been getting inner tire wear / feathering on the front.

Do you think replacing the LCA's alone should remedy that? Should I do the uppers
also?

I already have a bullit kit in place (springs, shocks and bars)

The stock bushings were deemed too soft (hence being upgraded early in the mod-motor run). This can lead to toe out under braking (inner tire wear). But worn steering components can also cause this.

You'll save money on the front uppers - we don't have any. As you remember, the strut locates the upper portion of the front suspension lever.

I would inspect your tie rods (inners and outers. You kinda have to inductively check inners via slop in the rack linkage). Also consider swapping the rack and pinion bushings. They're under 20 bucks (get them while ordering other parts) and take 15 mins to swap.

Good luck.

 

[tderrick]

The stock bushings were deemed too soft (hence being upgraded early in the mod-motor run). This can lead to toe out under braking (inner tire wear). But worn steering components can also cause this.

You'll save money on the front uppers - we don't have any. As you remember, the strut locates the upper portion of the front suspension lever.

I would inspect your tie rods (inners and outers. You kinda have to inductively check inners via slop in the rack linkage). Also consider swapping the rack and pinion bushings. They're under 20 bucks (get them while ordering other parts) and take 15 mins to swap.

Good luck.

Thanks for all the help... I guess the inner tie rods are under the steering dust boot...

I will pick up some rack bushings....