edelbrock heads Q..

[Mac-man]

ok i am looking at a set of edelbrock 60229 castings for my project i am working on. they seem to be the same as all the other edelbrock heads i have looked at except these dont have the steam holes drilled.. and i was curious exactly what they are referring to. i was thinking it might be the ports that ffed the egr ?? but wasnt positive. also the car they are going on has absolutely no emission equipment and is using a trick flow intake, so would these work or should i get the ones with steam holes ?? thanks

here is a link:

Edelbrock 60229 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Cylinder Heads - summitracing.com

 

[Brian@PAR]

From the instruction sheet

Check the upper deck to see if you have an early or late model block (not needed with 351-W): a) Late model 289-302 blocks have the water​

passages located next to the head bolt location on the deck of the block (This block

will not require drilling). b) Early 289-302 blocks will
have the water passages located directly over the cylinder upper deck area and will require drilling 1/8" steam holes as seen in Figure 2.
​

If you have a 5.0 block then no you don't need them.

Can I ask you why you chose these heads?
​

 

[Mac-man]

i was looking through one of our catalogs at work since we are an edelbrock dealer, and i can get great deals on edelbrock parts. i was looking for a sb ford cylinder head that had studs for rockers, so that i could get away from the pedestal mount style rockers, and these were some of the ones i saw in the catalog... if there is another number i should use i will if these wont work, i was just thinking of picking up a set of edelbrock heads here pretty soon, and some in the performer rpm range.

mike

 

[347HO]

What size bore are you finishing with?

 

[Brian@PAR]

Personally I would not use that small of a head. You have a 5 speed and with a custom cam you could use the Vic JR's. You have to be willing to spin it to 7K but that's no problem with a good valve train on stock bottom end. There are several reasons for the big head but one big one is you can move them to bigger and bigger motors.

 

[Mac-man]

the bore is whatever is stock plus .030 . the bottom end is actually pretty well built, fully balanced and machined with forged components, so i dont think the rpm would be the issue, i was just looking for a decent aluminum head that would let me see about 425 rwhp when i finally get a blowerfor this thing. the cam is an f-cam, and it has the trick flow track heat intake on it at the moment, and i didnt plane on swapping those out. thanks for the info though guys

 

[347HO]

With the 4.030", a 2.02" valve will compliment it nicely.

I've heard, not seen good power put down with boost and a letter cam.
However, to run that cam and have a stable valvetrain will be tricky near 5500rpm and above.
If you build your setup to make broad power below that, you'd be saving yourself some pain and money.

I suggest you match your valvetrain components to compliment that camshaft and cylinder head you choose.

As Brian@PAR commented... if you were to buy larger, better cylinder heads such as the Vic Jr., even Canfield or TFS series, you'd make more power now, and later, when you decide to upgrade the rest of the setup.
I also agree with Brian... the attention to parts you put in the bottom end, a custom camshaft is in order to take advantage of that and the boost.

 

[87AODGT]

However, to run that cam and have a stable valvetrain will be tricky near 5500rpm and above.
I

I don't see what makes it so tricky, just have the right springs and pushrod length, mine sees 6500 on a regular basis

 

[347HO]

I don't see what makes it so tricky, just have the right springs and pushrod length, mine sees 6500 on a regular basis

Are we to assume you chose the correct springs and pushrods the first time?

How do you know your valvetrain is stable?
Would you care to show the results from your "engine dyno" sessions?

For the sake of keeping this helpful to Mac-man;
What springs are you using?
What is your install height?
What is your tension on the base and on the nose of the lobe?
What lifters are you using with the above?

I will admit right now, I'm not trying to get you defensive, I'd like you to prove what you've posted.

 

[Mac-man]

since when is an f-cam not suitable for boost? everything i have ever seen both on the net and in person has shown good success with an f-cam and boost... and on the note of heads.. trick flow heads are 1200 bucks.. and the others a little more expensive..

the reason i ask about those edelbrock heads, is that being a dealer i will only have about 750 in a set of these, as an assembled set of heads, and thats considerably less expensive than the other choices. all i was asking is if they would help be get the 425 rwhp under boost, with what i mentioned in earlier posts ..... if not i may consider another alternative.. thanks

mike

 

[347HO]

since when is an f-cam not suitable for boost? everything i have ever seen both on the net and in person has shown good success with an f-cam and boost...
mike

No one has said in any post in this thread that your "f" cam won't make power with boost.

... and on the note of heads.. trick flow heads are 1200 bucks.. and the others a little more expensive..
mike

Not going on cost of any cylinder head and only on performance and value, TFS TWs and High Ports are hard to beat when compared apples to apples.
Canfields have also proven their edge over standard design cylinder heads.

Since you have the ability to buy at "cost" Eddie products, the Victor Jrs were suggested because they have shown to be superior over the RPM sets.

Using your goal of 425 to the ground, going with better cylinder heads will require less boost and with the correctly matched camshaft will provide a better "power band" or "column average" of power.

As a dealer, you probably can call Edelbrock and get the lowdown on what they suggest for your application. The trick would be talking to someone with experience in what you're trying to do.

On another note, just remember an assembled cylinder head may not have the springs, cups, valves and valve angle that's correct for you setup.

 

[Mac-man]

in reference to the cam, i was only saying that since someone posted earlier they hadnt seen good results with boost and a letter cam, and i was just wanting to ask the question to find out if there are any results on it not being a good blower cam... i figured being that the edelbrock head are a bit on the small side, and the fact that cam is kind of small in its own rights, going with it and my trick flow intake would be a fairly suitable combination ... i understand bigger is better in the way of heads since it does allow room to grow, but i dont plan on going crazy with this car and the small cubes of the 306 ...

 

[Brian@PAR]

Will the F cam work, yes. Is it the best cam for the motor and your goal not in my opinion.

Part of the probelm with the FMS stuff is quality control. Some you'll install and they will be spot on, some will be off a couple of degrees. All of them I've seen cam doctor'd have been off lobe to lobe. Another issue is the cheap cores they use, there is a reason for the low price. With the right springs they flex. Now will this cause you an issue with what you want to do, probabaly not as you don't need to spin it high. Keep in mind you'll be making peak HP around 5500 but twist it higher and you are pushing your luck on doing damage.

347HO's comment about the 5500 RPM limit is very true. A lot of guys don't know they have valve train problems until they break something or try to disassemble the heads and can't get the valves out because the locks have deformed the stem. If you "feel" valve float at a certain RPM it's happening long before that and the parts are taking a beating.

If you wanted to make 425 N/A and have a head you can grow into then the JR's are the ticket but like I said earlier it will take a custom cam to do that. Keep in mind one of the cool things about a custom is you get to tailor the idle quality with in a certain range. Or at least you do with us. A Vic Jr headed 306 will lend itself to a very smooth idle, around 17" of vaccum, with a shift RPM around 7000. But by manipulating the seat timing a bit you can have a lope with the performance basically unchanged. Another thing to keep in mind with a big head little motor is your power band will be over 3000. This will not be your typical peaky motor but it will feel soft down low. This is kind of nice for a street driven car especially if the wife or girlfriend ever drive it.

Good luck to you but I would seriously consider the JR's or at least a better quality cam.

 

[Mac-man]

i got yah, and i am wanting to make 425 RWHP after supercharging... i may not have made myself clear earlier. as for the cam choice would say a trick flow cam be better, or is there one you think would be a better choice ?? i am not wanting to go too radical with the cam nor the heads, and keep it as streetable as possible and also keeping some low end torque and i am not wanting to rev it past 6K if i dont have to. i just want something fun to drive... the reason i am looking at an off the shelf cam, is because if where i work has access to it i can usually save about 30-40% over jegs/summit pricing. i understand that saving money is not the way to make ultimate horsepower, but i also dont think 425 supercharged horsepower is going to take a huge set of heads, nor a custom ground cam although i could be wrong. please keep in mind i come from the modular world, where cams were made by vt, and we just wanted ported stock heads.....; thanks again for all the info i do appreciate it

mike

 

[347HO]

You invest appx 1000.00 on a rotating assembly.
You invest appx 600.00 on block preperation.
You invest appx 800.00 to 1400.00 on cylinder heads.
You invest appx 2000.00 on a boost setup.
... and then you want to save 200.00 on a camshaft and appx 200.00 on the correct associated valvetrain components?

I'm a custom camshaft advocate. A custome piece will be correct for your application and depending how YOU want it... it can be aggressive to mild and still provide enough power to absolutely fry your tires. When I say "mild" that's in reference to street manners, yet still give you your hp goal.

 

[Mac-man]

i am going to use the "appropriate" valvetrain for the cam i am using. and all i wanted to know is will those heads work on a 5.0 block, not a lecture on what i should do.. i know there is better out there, but i am not looking for the "best" just whatever gets the job done, at the best price possible. if i was truly trying to cheap out i would buy some "pro-comp or thunderstrike heads from ebay" and as far as the shortblock i didnt spend the money on it... it came with the car

mike

 

[347HO]

Good luck to you sir.