Advice on my new Stang. $6k to spend!!

[Robert.James]

Whats up guys, i bought this mustang about 3 months before i enlisted in the army so its not really "new" i guess. but it came with everything noted in my sig except the muffler deletes.

Yes it came with the GT500 sticker on the side stripe, looking to change it to GT350, change the spoiler,hood and grill eventually.

Im currently stationed in korea for 2 years while my car sits at home at my parents house, so my dad has a fun little project thats completely funded by me (He owns an actual 07' gt500).

I have 6k to put into it for now and im asking if this sounds good or if you guys have any suggestions on better products.

kooks longtubes, bassani o/r x pipe, borla mufflers.
Steeda watts linkage, rear eibach coilovers, j&m adjustable control arms,
steeda strut tower brace, subframe connectors
FRPP 4.10's(installed before the watts linkage of course)
Ford 18x10 chrome bullit wheels with nitto 555 extreme's
Hurst short throw.

Being in korea for 2 years gives me alot of time to save money for some type of forced induction, forged internals, built tranny or possibly 6 speed. But ill wait to see whats out for when i come back so i can be there to install, couldnt miss that.

And input would be awsome, thanks!

 

[SpartaPerformance]

Supercharger kit

 

[walter]

^ that would be the drag racer's response.

Obviously it all depends on what you want to do with the car. If it's corner carving you're seeking focus on a suspension package, watt's link (fays 2 engineering the original design and $$$ less), brakes, wheels and tires and just add a tuner and some mufflers.

6K is a lot to play with if I had that much money I might even consider looking into Griggs racing's catalog. Their front suspension kits go for about that much but you can fit insane rubber under the fenders and shave off 100s of pounds from the front of the car.

These cars are plenty fast from the factory, the suspension and brakes are the weak link address those issues and you'll find yourself with a much nicer car to drive IMO. If you don't believe it look up some of the GR40 cars at track days. I've seen N/A models even in street toy trim cruise around M3's and 911's.

 

[lexluthr69]

I second the suspension mods first, especially the watt's link, but like walter, go with the Fays2 Engineering watt's link. It's considerably less and is the original for our Stangs. Once you've tackled suspension and brakes, then I'd consider a large power adder like a blower or turbo.

 

[chad9350]

Heads and cams OR shortblock and sell the one you have now and still get good $$ for it OR sell longblock while still get good $ and get longblock...

THEN get SC....

b/c w/ sc you WILL NEED fuel, cooling, 1000$ in gauges, tune, and of course upgraded drivetrain and rear end; suspension too... oh, and tires...


sadly, 6K dosent get you too far in these cars...

 

[o0Dan0o]

Heads and cams OR shortblock and sell the one you have now and still get good $$ for it OR sell longblock while still get good $ and get longblock...

THEN get SC....

b/c w/ sc you WILL NEED fuel, cooling, 1000$ in gauges, tune, and of course upgraded drivetrain and rear end; suspension too... oh, and tires...


sadly, 6K dosent get you too far in these cars...

Heh, chad you seem to be pretty down on these supercharging folks. I'll give you the gages, though they aren't 100% necessary just very highly recommended. The rest of those you will need for a given power level, regardless of how you get that power.

Depending on your goals you don't necessarily need a built shortblock. I'd say under 400 RWHP you're pretty safe so long as the tune is good and somewhat conservative. Most people don't really run into trouble until past 450 rwhp (this are very rough figures), but if it's your DD I would play it extra safe.

My suggestion, though, echoes the others, do some suspension mods, since those are easy and fun. I installed LT headers on my own as well, and thought it was a lot of fun, though also very hard work. Then maybe H/C or a power adder.
Dan

 

[cycosarge]

Just buy a Kenne Bell 2.6L kit and call it a day. It comes with EVERYTHING you need and you get up to 501 RWHP on an otherwise stock car. Then spend your monthly allowance on upgrades, one at a time.

 

[Robert.James]

ill look into that fay2 watts, im still readin alot. ive gone back and forth between a KB or buidling the cars suspension, drivetrain, etc. at first.

i figured it would be better to build the car around the KB first so if by some chance i dont come up with the cash, ill still have a fun car. opposed to have a KB on a stock block resulting in a squirly car to the point of dangerous with the possibility of blowing it up.

once the suspension is done, im gonna have the stock 5 speed built, twin disk clutch, and a livernois rotating assembly. possibly the 298 stroker. from what ive read the stock block is good as long as i put a strong rotating assembly in it. that would tide me over until i save for a 2.8h kit.

ive read conflicting information about the stock block. with a forged rotating assembly is it capable of supporting between 700-800hp?

thanks for the input guys much appreciated.

 

[o0Dan0o]

ive read conflicting information about the stock block. with a forged rotating assembly is it capable of supporting between 700-800hp?

thanks for the input guys much appreciated.

I haven't heard of anyone cracking these blocks, four bolt mains with the side bolts, just a solid design over all. I think to kill it you'd have to be pushing over 1000 hp. Most of these blocks die from a rod going out side.
Dan