Drive Cycle Issues

joserw

New Member
Aug 12, 2009
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I am trying to pass a NYS inspection, the car has been returned to stock, however, I cannot complete the drive cycle to clear the P1000 code. The EVAP and Catalyst codes will not register. I have drive so many hundreds of miles and followed the OBDII Ford drive cycle to a tee. I have no idea what I could possibily be doing wrong?

Side question, what does this jargon mean? TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%
 
Your O2 sensors could be deffective,there are up stream o2 sensors and down stream sensors, you can clean them or replace them, make sure you sensors also heat up properly, and test them with a voltage meter after you check for build up, check your fuel cap, use high octane gas, check all your vacum hoses, make sure there are no leaks anywhere engine or exhaust make sure your engine heating up properly, I heard using somthing called sea foam, but make sure search stangnet for that, spark plugs, I think you know the obvious, keep clearing the codes until they don't come back. Oh yea fuel sytem cleaner. If I can think of somthing else edit this reply. Oh yea clean your intake and manifold, ivest in a catch can.
 
I am trying to pass a NYS inspection, the car has been returned to stock, however, I cannot complete the drive cycle to clear the P1000 code. The EVAP and Catalyst codes will not register. I have drive so many hundreds of miles and followed the OBDII Ford drive cycle to a tee. I have no idea what I could possibily be doing wrong?

Side question, what does this jargon mean? TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%


We have people here in Nashville that flagrantly, even in the testing station parking lot, have been caught disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU.

So now, the '96+ cars have to have a certain number of "drive cycles" or on/off cycles of the key before they will let the car pass. They require you come back in a week. If your out of time to get your registration done..... tough. Pay $7 and get a temp. operating permit. I guess folks think the station employees are dumb as dammit the dog.

GT
 
If the O2 sensors were defective, wouldn't they still complete the drive cycle and then just trigger the CEL? I changed my spark plugs. There are no leaks that I can see.

According to the OBDII drive cycle web page that everyone refers to 10 mins of stop and go driving should trigger the Catalyst, but it hasn't.

I've been without an inspection for 2 weeks now haha
 
If you're not setting any codes other than p1000, the last thing you want to do is clear the codes, other wise you'll be starting from scratch, trying to complete all the drive cycles.

Its better than getting a ticket and hassled by a police officer, plus it might buy him some time. His problem might take a lot of trip faults for the MIL trip. But if it is the O2 sensors then after the first Drive cycle it will trip. Plus clearing might tell him what kind problem, it may intermenten.
 
Ok, here is the long answer, your drive cycle can be pended if an existing condition will cause the test to fail. For example, if the engine light is on due to an oxygen sensor fault, the catalyst monitor will not run since it requires signals from the oxygen sensor. Running the test now would cause inaccurate results, so the test is will not run pending the resolution of the related problem. So, no it won't complete the drive cycle. Dosn't take much to start and end a drive cycle. The catalyst efficiency monitor only requires a steady speed drive for 5 minutes at 40 to 60 mph, followed by a normal city drive cycle (10 minutes) between 45 to 60 mph to test the evaporative system, after warm up, and the rest of the obvious.
 
We have people here in Nashville that flagrantly, even in the testing station parking lot, have been caught disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU.

So now, the '96+ cars have to have a certain number of "drive cycles" or on/off cycles of the key before they will let the car pass. They require you come back in a week. If your out of time to get your registration done..... tough. Pay $7 and get a temp. operating permit. I guess folks think the station employees are dumb as dammit the dog.

GT

What's up with the attitude? Joserw has a car problem that needs to be cleared up so he can "legally" pass the car inspection. I didn't see any thing about beating the system or that station employess are dumb in any post. Your reply certainly doesn't help at all. If you need to vent about your job or anything else, do it over in the "talk" section please. Pearl02
 
The station employees are actually good friends and are working with me to pass the car.

Anywho, I think I know the problem... I was getting a P0457 code (loose fuel cap) so I replaced the fuel cap (not with a Motorcraft one like I should have.) Now I am getting a P0455 (EVAP leak detected.) Is the aftermarket gas cap still throwing this new code or do I actually have a leak somewhere in the EVAP system?

Also, would a leak in the EVAP system cause the Cat MIL to come back not ready. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Code p0455 is a large leak in the evap system. New cap might be defective or the cap was never leaking in the first place. It's possible the cat effiency test might not run if a leak in the evap system is detected. Unfortunately testing for evap system leaks is not something easy to do for the do it yourselfer.
You can look for something obvious like a loose or damaged line. If the evap vent valve is cheap, you could throw one on if you don't see anything. Or just bight the bullit and get it checked out at a shop. Should only cost about and hours labour or less, as long as it's not something wierd, to find the problem.
 
You can use a Butane lighter to check for any hoses that are leaking. If the engine revs then you've found your leak, as for your cats raise the car and started and use a lit lighter, still clear your codes, b/c you may have to go through alot of drive cycles. Hmmm, :nonono:like was previouly stated I threw the same code when my gas cap was removed. Your problem seems to shrinking. Fourtanately.:nice: Oh and no the evap system won't throw a cat code, that works off of if your air fuel mixture is too lean or too rich or your four synsors are bad basically it will throw a code if emmissions are off the memory your dealership stores in your computer I think its called RAM, random access memory. Remember that catch can idea.:rolleyes: Try it:). It might solve your problem and replaces your PCV system, keeps your engine clean:nice:. I can send you the pics if you want.:nice:
 
WELL... I was getting a P455 LARGE EVAP LEAK code... so I replaced my gas cap with a Motorcraft gas cap. I smoked the EVAP system and the smoke was POURING out of the filler neck. I had the cap pressure tested an it is fine. My mechanic is telling me a I need a few filler neck... Has this happened to anyone before. I have heard of the gasket into the filler neck/fuel tank leaking, but not needing a new filler neck? Where can I even get one (a filler neck that is)?
 
The station employees are actually good friends and are working with me to pass the car.

Anywho, I think I know the problem... I was getting a P0457 code (loose fuel cap) so I replaced the fuel cap (not with a Motorcraft one like I should have.) Now I am getting a P0455 (EVAP leak detected.) Is the aftermarket gas cap still throwing this new code or do I actually have a leak somewhere in the EVAP system?

Also, would a leak in the EVAP system cause the Cat MIL to come back not ready. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


Sorry, no attitude intended. At least you have station employees trying to help. Good Luck with this issue. :nice:

GT
 
I've heard of the filler neck seal leaking, but never the fuel neck itself. There is a rubber seal that goes from the filler neck to the gas tank and it is very common for that seal to start leaking. However, you'll usually notice a puddle of fuel at the back right side of the car and the smell of fuel. So the filler neck explanation seems funny, but your mechanic is the one that has looked at your car. :shrug:

WELL... I was getting a P455 LARGE EVAP LEAK code... so I replaced my gas cap with a Motorcraft gas cap. I smoked the EVAP system and the smoke was POURING out of the filler neck. I had the cap pressure tested an it is fine. My mechanic is telling me a I need a few filler neck... Has this happened to anyone before. I have heard of the gasket into the filler neck/fuel tank leaking, but not needing a new filler neck? Where can I even get one (a filler neck that is)?
 
This is why I am here... it doesn't make sense to me. I was there when he did it and the gas cap was brand new. Smoke just came pouring out of the filler neck area... He pressure tested the cap and it was fine. I can't see any cracks and there is no leak in the grommet at the tank... I'm baffled...?

The filler neck was the ONLY place smoke was leaking though
 
Just to let everyone know, I took the car into Ford and according to them, only Ford can smoke their vehicles because there is a solenoid that needs to be closed in order to close the EVAP system. Only ford has the computer software to manually shut this solenoid. Turns out it was the filler neck grommet and my vapor managment valve (which I never heard of) was faulty. Car has since passed inspection. Hope this helps somebody in the future.