94 GT transmission

Not to confuse you more.......:D SOME of us have AODE's:rlaugh: What I have found that works for me is to leave the trans hooked to the engine, remove the Hpipe and crossmember, after putting a jack under the trans, slowly lower the jack , which will tilt the engine and allow you to get to the top two bolts, make sure you leave the bottom bolts in, then once you get th top 2 out raise the engine back level, doesn't hurt to have a "spotter" watching the rear of the engine when you lower the trans to watch clearance......hope you get it.
Well the weather has been cold and wet here so havent got to work on it since saturday night. I did however get a 10" extension even though we pieced a few together along with a u joint but couldnt really get it on the bolt good enough to break it. From what Ive read and seen pics of after driving yall nutts and lots more research is that I dont think the motor, or trans w/e one needs to be maybe both lol Im new to this, sorry, but is not low enough cause the pics Ive seen is the tail down and the darn bolts on top are looking right at u, but for me they are hidden, should I remove jack from under tranny? Jack the motor up I mean Ive heard so much I dunno which to do

I have read "The MUstang'" thread on this, but since his tranny was an automatic getting took out I think I may be in a lil diff situation. This is my first big job on a car and I hate it so far. I was looking forward to it haha

The Haynes manual has been off and if not for u guys Id be in real bad shape
 
I dont know how to get it just right. I tightened it and the noise was gone but clutch released too high, now it dont do it at idle and its kinda too soon, but chirps when pushed it like when foot resting on( I know bad habit)
 
Yeah, the clutch fork should actually wiggle a little bit. You want the throw out bearing to be away from the pressure plate when you are off the pedal. That will keep it from wearing out so fast.

Kurt