2002 GT Squeaking!!!!!!

[josh's 95 GT]

okay guys i've got a 02 GT, there is a squeaking in the drivers side rear, i changed the rotors and pads 3 days ago and still does it. If you put on the emergency brake 2 clicks it stops. Its driving me crazy, i dont know what it is.


Also my car has been lowered and has negative camber, there is a ticking in the front only when i turn i never heard this sound before. Could it be my wheel bearings in the front? I have a QA1 tubular K member, i dont know if the negative camber has something to do with all of that, i also want to know what camber plates i should get, Steeda or maximum motorsports?


Please help me out guys

 

[RedDaemon]

you drive around with the ebrake partially engaged?

did you personally lower the car?

 

[StangSims39]

run over a squirrel?

 

[trombonedemon]

For your rear end, check for gear fluid around you dust shield, your brakes and rotors could be glazed. The rotors touch the brake pads just bit but enough to squeal if grease gets in contact. Your bearings/seals probaly need to be replaced worst case scenario best case your E brake needs adjusting. The ticking in the front sounds like ball joints especially if you car is lowered and you don't have taller ball joints. Either way it sounds like your ball joints need replacing.

 

[hotdog71]

I know your pain man!

I am having the same squeak I just started to notice it about two weeks ago. Mine isn't that loud so I only hear it when I have the top down or the windows open and pass between two walls or fences or backing out of the garage

My front suspension creaks a bit when turning the wheel but mine is not lowered.

 

[mr-mike]

one guy said the ball joints they can be greased with a needle grease injector try it , buy one ..jack it up & let suspension hang inject the joint gently turn wheel left to right then to the other side , squeel gone your good to go I grease them once a year & have had no problems at all

 

[1slowmo]

I had the same issue turned out to be my Caliper on the rear drivers side. With the rear of your fist just bump/tap your tire going all around the edge of it and see if you hear the squeek. I completly replaced mine and no more squeek. 3 months later now my rear passanger side is doing it. Before replacing it I might try to grease the bolts and pins first.

 

[hotdog71]

one guy said the ball joints they can be greased with a needle grease injector try it , buy one ..jack it up & let suspension hang inject the joint gently turn wheel left to right then to the other side , squeel gone your good to go I grease them once a year & have had no problems at all

That's a good idea I am thinking of also getting some Steeda sway bars so could be a good time lub up down there.

 

[hotdog71]

I had the same issue turned out to be my Caliper on the rear drivers side. With the rear of your fist just bump/tap your tire going all around the edge of it and see if you hear the squeek. I completly replaced mine and no more squeek. 3 months later now my rear passanger side is doing it. Before replacing it I might try to grease the bolts and pins first.

I am wonder if a caliper overhual or replacement is called for with mine too I should have replaced the back ones when I did the Cobra brake upgrade at the front end 2 years ago. I only change the rear pads last summer.

 

[josh's 95 GT]

you drive around with the ebrake partially engaged?

did you personally lower the car?

No i dont ride around with it on, i'm just sayin when u click it up 2 clicks it goes away...

And no i bought the car already lowerd, its a 2002 GT i payed 5000 and a very bad wrecked hatch, guy could not afford payments on it any more, i went to class with him... he did not want to let it go lol... but oh well hahaha ^_^

 

[josh's 95 GT]

For your rear end, check for gear fluid around you dust shield, your brakes and rotors could be glazed. The rotors touch the brake pads just bit but enough to squeal if grease gets in contact. Your bearings/seals probaly need to be replaced worst case scenario best case your E brake needs adjusting. The ticking in the front sounds like ball joints especially if you car is lowered and you don't have taller ball joints. Either way it sounds like your ball joints need replacing.

Well the Rear Rotors are brand new, and pads also.....

See i'm thinking its the e-brake cable because it goes away when u engage it 2 clicks, i hope thats what it is anyway lol.......

I kinda figured that it was the ball joints in the front but wasnt for sure, and also do u think it caused any other damge like wheel bearings or anything....

I'm also torn between getting the Steeda Camber plates or the Maximum Motorsports plates, idk which one i need, becuase the car is low in the front and the Maximum has a 1.7 degrees of adjustability, the steeda dosent say how much, also not to mention the price diffrence...

 

[trombonedemon]

Well the Rear Rotors are brand new, and pads also.....

See i'm thinking its the e-brake cable because it goes away when u engage it 2 clicks, i hope thats what it is anyway lol.......

I kinda figured that it was the ball joints in the front but wasnt for sure, and also do u think it caused any other damge like wheel bearings or anything....

I'm also torn between getting the Steeda Camber plates or the Maximum Motorsports plates, idk which one i need, becuase the car is low in the front and the Maximum has a 1.7 degrees of adjustability, the steeda dosent say how much, also not to mention the price diffrence...

Well, I replace my rotors and break pads too, and the sound came back, I even sanded both the rotors and brakes pads. Since the car is new to you save your money and get both of your rear bearings and seals done, bearings and seals trumps caster camber plates. Greasing your front ball joints is a temp fix at best, having make noise is a sign that they are about to give, since they don't make the front contral arms for our cars any more, you might have to get a steeda bump steer and ball joint kit and install yourself to cut costs. The sound will go away when your e-brake is up b/c its stablelizing the rotor, all in all your still gonna end up replacing your bearings and seals unless your friend has done that already no less than 50 thousand miles ago, they should be good for up to a 100,000. Just basic trials and tribulations of buying a used car, heck I would have went ahead and did the balljoints and rearend as a first mod.

 

[josh's 95 GT]

Well, I replace my rotors and break pads too, and the sound came back, I even sanded both the rotors and brakes pads. Since the car is new to you save your money and get both of your rear bearings and seals done, bearings and seals trumps caster camber plates. Greasing your front ball joints is a temp fix at best, having make noise is a sign that they are about to give, since they don't make the front contral arms for our cars any more, you might have to get a steeda bump steer and ball joint kit and install yourself to cut costs. The sound will go away when your e-brake is up b/c its stablelizing the rotor, all in all your still gonna end up replacing your bearings and seals unless your friend has done that already no less than 50 thousand miles ago, they should be good for up to a 100,000. Just basic trials and tribulations of buying a used car, heck I would have went ahead and did the balljoints and rearend as a first mod.

ahhh okay, very ture, i just wanted to make sure before i spent money on something that would not fix the problem, i'm just going to get new ball joints, i've look at the steeda bumpstear kits and wasnt to sure about them, i really doubt he did, how much do you think the rear will run me?

 

[trombonedemon]

Lets see, they would have to remove both axles and speed sensors, which shouldn't take no more than 45 minutes to an hour a piece, press off both seals and bearings if you have mechanic w/ a press or he would use a hammer and a torch other wise. Press them back on, assuming he or she gets it right the first time b/c if they have to redo the install it weakens the integrity of both the seals and bearings, plus new rear oil and friction modifier 5 to 6 hours tops, Ford did mine in a day, only reason I had them do mine b/c of a collision and insurance covered the repair. My mechanic usally would charge me 75 bucks an hour, I think its worth every penny if the install is done right the first time. Buy your own bearing and seal kit plus gear oil w/friction modifier to cut down cost. At the most 75x5 hours. Give or take and thats a bit much.

 

[josh's 95 GT]

Lets see, they would have to remove both axles and speed sensors, which shouldn't take no more than 45 minutes to an hour a piece, press off both seals and bearings if you have mechanic w/ a press or he would use a hammer and a torch other wise. Press them back on, assuming he or she gets it right the first time b/c if they have to redo the install it weakens the integrity of both the seals and bearings, plus new rear oil and friction modifier 5 to 6 hours tops, Ford did mine in a day, only reason I had them do mine b/c of a collision and insurance covered the repair. My mechanic usally would charge me 75 bucks an hour, I think its worth every penny if the install is done right the first time. Buy your own bearing and seal kit plus gear oil w/friction modifier to cut down cost. At the most 75x5 hours. Give or take and thats a bit much.

Hey man thanks so much for your help, i'm going to talk to my guy at the shop friday and see what he will charge me to get it all done, cuz thats what it has to be i mean i thought of everything else and this is what makes the most sense... i will keep you posted and let you know how everything goes