Anyone have a spare used TFI module???

monte87

Founding Member
Feb 26, 2001
876
18
49
new york
Guys-

Like the title states, Does anyone have an old used spare TFI module, it doesnt have to work, I just need the body to gut it to make my TFI relocation kit work.

Thanks Ant
 
ABSOLUTELY! :) But unfortnatley i live in the ****hole called NYC where there arent any junkyards, and the ones that i can goto are in NJ which cost me gas ($20) and tolls ($8) that are sky high........ So i figured i'd ask on our board hoping someone had a spare one.

Wouldn't it be easier to go to the jy and pull one off a town car or grand marq?
 
I used an old heatsink from the 60's that came out of an amplifier. The tfi module is mounted under the heatsink. The heatsink is mounted to a two sided aluminum box. I put under where the stock air box was. I had to extend the tfi wires with the grey plug about 1 foot, 3 of the 6 wires were shielded by ford, so i shielded with heavy duty aluminum foil the extended wires to the heatsink. The three wires from the tfi module to the distributor i ran up the fender to the firewall, along the firewall and back under the upper intake to the distributor, of these 3 wires only one gets shielded, that one is the pip signal wire, the pip connector on the tfi module is closest to the grey plug in, the middle connector is power and the furthest connector from the plug end is ground. I made my own shielded wire by wrapping regular insulated 16 gauge wire with smaller bare wire leaving a pigtail on one end, then wrapping that with heavy duty aluminum foil, then wrap all that with electrical tape, solder the female connectors on the three wires, connect to tfi module and run them to the distributor, grounding the shielded wire pigtail to the chassis. If you cut any wires, number them first with masking tape.

Excellent advice.

Take note of the how much effort he put into shielding the wires, as it is very important. The EMI (electro-magnetic interference) from the wires and spark plugs can play havoc with the sensors and other electronics, so proper shielding of the TFI wiring is very important.
 
When you cut and spliced the TFI wires, Did you solder or use butt connectors???
How much length did you have to "add" to go from the stock harness to your relocated TFI heatsink mount area loaction-EXACTLY???

Because, i purchased an additional stoicker harness from JY, which is 2ft and i was wondering if its gonna be long enough when i add them together. The stock TFI harness on the car right now is 2 feet from the firewall to dizzy, Im just confused to whether solder or use butt connectors.... Plus-Im not that good at soldering, I cant lie. hahahah
Thansk Ant
 
I guess i'm lucky as my car is still running on the original 23 year old TFI

However, i do carry a dizzy wrench, TFI wrench, heat sink grease and a spare TFI in the car with me at all times. You never know
 
Hey bud-

Did you use shrink wrap after soldering the butt connectors or not?

I am looking to relocate the heatsink & TFI on the "open hole circle" capped with that black plastic cap towards the passengerside strut tower before the stock air filter, usualy where lots of guys run there Anderson power pipes. I am going to combine the stocker TFI harness with the junkyard TFI harness, (4ft total) Do you think 4ft of wire would be enough????

Thanks Ant
 
Oh ok.... I got it! I think im gonna cut & splice, and heatshrink the balls out of it. Did it matter about the location of splices on the wires??? meaning-all the cuts werent at the same cut points next to each other??
What really sucks is that the length of the stock Stang TFI harness is so damn short at 2 feet, WTF!!!! 1992-94 E-150 vans had longggggggggg harnesses stock. I would say 4-5 feet. Im thinking it may be easier to got JY and find one and call it a day!

Ant

I use rubber tape, it has no glue, you stretch it around and it bonds to itself like vulcanized rubber, it will never come apart. If you mount it over the round hole you might not need any extra wire, that will save a lot of work and cutting and soldering of wires. I chose under the stock air box position so the heatsink is mounted horizontal so the heat goes straight up and out and away from the header heat, but if you put it inside the fender then you will be cool.