so I've had the engine and tranny out of my car for about 2 weeks now, just waiting for my parts to arrive. Well today we decided to make a little progres by re-honing one of the cylinders and getting the new oil pump installed. Well, we pulled the clutch off to mount the engine on the engine stand and discovered that my stage 2 spec with less than 3k miles on it has already reached the point of needing replacment and the spec aluminum flywheel has a very serious case of hot spots. To make things worse, upon pulling the oil pan and pickup tube, we discovered the filter on the tube was coated in chunks of metal and plastic from the disaster that was the timing guides. Now on top of needing to resurface the flywheel, I now need a new clutch...But I feel like there should be some sort of warranty on the clutch...I mean that thing cost me 320 dollars and lasted a very short time for a clutch.
went a little deeper...
- Thread starter SiahNyde
- Start date
Maxpowers
Member
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Ditch your Aluminum flywheel and get a stock one. Thats one of the reasons your clutch disk is worn-out so fast. The lighter flywheel will spin quicker or less effort for the engine to spin the flywheel, thus you rpm's will rise faster when you hit the throttle, you probaly drove the car the same way you did before you had the clutch replaced.
Every time you have an engine rebuild, those are the things you need to replace.
As far as the warranty for the clutch disk, gonna be hard to prove that it is the manufacture's fault if you don't use there flywheel or a stock flywheel.
Every time you have an engine rebuild, those are the things you need to replace.
As far as the warranty for the clutch disk, gonna be hard to prove that it is the manufacture's fault if you don't use there flywheel or a stock flywheel.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
I don't like this smillie by the way, I don't think your stupid.Ditch your Aluminum flywheel and get a stock one. Thats one of the reasons your clutch disk is worn-out so fast. The lighter flywheel will spin quicker or less effort for the engine to spin the flywheel, thus you rpm's will rise faster when you hit the throttle, you probaly drove the car the same way you did before you had the clutch replaced.
Every time you have an engine rebuild, those are the things you need to replace.
As far as the warranty for the clutch disk, gonna be hard to prove that it is the manufacture's fault if you don't use there flywheel or a stock flywheel.
It's making 473 to the wheels and I broke it in properly. I didn't notice that it was misadjusted (didn't pull out the clutch pedal) until we got it to the dyno, which was about 1000 miles later. I was thinking that might have been the issue but would a 1000 miles of untuned driving wear it that hard?
Ditch your Aluminum flywheel and get a stock one. Thats one of the reasons your clutch disk is worn-out so fast. The lighter flywheel will spin quicker or less effort for the engine to spin the flywheel, thus you rpm's will rise faster when you hit the throttle, you probaly drove the car the same way you did before you had the clutch replaced.
Every time you have an engine rebuild, those are the things you need to replace.
As far as the warranty for the clutch disk, gonna be hard to prove that it is the manufacture's fault if you don't use there flywheel or a stock flywheel.
I went with the aluminum so it would rev faster. my engine is blueprinted and balanced, would it affect any of that going to a stock flywheel? Also, the flywheel was the same as the clutch, both are Spec.
Green&GoldGT
Member
Ditch your Aluminum flywheel and get a stock one. Thats one of the reasons your clutch disk is worn-out so fast. The lighter flywheel will spin quicker or less effort for the engine to spin the flywheel, thus you rpm's will rise faster when you hit the throttle, you probaly drove the car the same way you did before you had the clutch replaced.
Every time you have an engine rebuild, those are the things you need to replace.
As far as the warranty for the clutch disk, gonna be hard to prove that it is the manufacture's fault if you don't use there flywheel or a stock flywheel.
I'm still trying to figure out your "aluminum flywheel spins faster so it wears out the clutch logic"? Maybe if the clutch was already done and slipping?
I called Spec today and talked to the fella for quite a while. He seems to think that the clutch got some sort of liquid on it like or oil or tranny fluid and since the clutch is made of kevlar it just soaked up the water and caused it to wear out very quickly. as for the flywheel, I can buy a new plate to replace the worn out one for like 70 dollars so big deal, but it turns out the clutch comes with a 120 day warranty and then you are on your own, so it looks like a new clutch is in my immediate future. Any reccomendations? I'm thinking a spec stage 2+ or possibly a 3 are decent options.
joshjwc9
Active Member
Well, I have had several friends have bad luck with Spec Stage 2's and other full Kevlar clutch discs. You glaze them once and they slip like crazy. Having high hp that gets alot of high rpm shifts will cause glazing or hot spots. That is why I went with a metallic flywheel side clutch with my RAM powergrip. It gives a more of an on/off pedal, but I don't have to worry about it glazing. I'd recommend the Powergrip or Powergrip HD, or even the McCleod streetpro or Spec stage 3 or 3+.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Not spinning faster per say, but a lot quicker throttle response. Hence when stated that my bet is he still clutched the same after he got the thicker clutch disks and the aluminum flywheel.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
By any chance did you change your rear main seal when your clutch job was done? That could have been the source of your liquid.
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