Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!
- Thread starter RacEoHolic330
- Start date
Thanks man! I really appreciate it. Glad I could provide some motivation.
Well, that thermal camera only reads to 535*F and the headers were registering above that number. I do want to beat on the engine a bit and then shoot the hotside with a gun that reads high enough to see how hot things really get. I would expect the headers to get over 1000*F after the engine has done some work.
Got any recommendations of a good setup to use? Adding a serpentine pump will be much easier said than done. I've heard of people using the electric Cobra air pumps, but their long term reliability didn't seem to be that great. They are meant to pump clean air, not oil vapors.
Well, I figured the headers would get really hot. I guess I was referring more towards ambient air temps.
Good point. I think I may stick a magnetic digital thermometer in the bay somewhere while driving around. I don't think it's possible to shoot air temps with an infrared gun. I do know that the upper intake and discharge pipe were around 160-170 degrees. Ambient temperatures near the firewall would be helpful to know. That's where the bay is the hottest because there is almost no airflow back there, even with the fan on.
Good info. The only reason I ask is because I REALLY want to use a certain paint for my engine bay project, but it says not for use over 200°. If it's close to or slightly over in most places, I'm willing to tempt fate, but if it's 250+ then I'll have to settle on something else.
Some guys on the bullet seem to like this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-28146/
I'm thinking electric would be the best route as long as I can find on that will be reliable on a street car.
I use the electric smog pump off of a F body car circa 2001 or so. Plump it in so that the fumes from both V/C go through an oil separator first and then the smog pump. You have to make sure that the smog pump is mounted far enough away that by the time the crankcase fumes get to it they are cooled off. Pump tends to be noisy if the exhaust port is left un-muffled. Nice part about it is that it is available from NAPA for about $80 and has a lifetime warranty. I mounted mine up in the passenger front fender just back from where the antenna would be. The oil separator is mounted up in the front of the passenger side inner fender as far forward as possible.
Are you using that on a race setup or does it see continuous duty? Have you measured what kind of vacuum it's able to pull?
At idle it will pull 5" of vacuum. Pretty much a race set up, but I don't see an issue with the pump running continuously provided the crank fumes are isolated from the pump properly. Plus the lifetime warranty helps. We got over 5 years of service out of the one on my friends car and it failed because a small rock somehow got tossed into the exhaust side and froze the pump up. On my set up I actually provide a little bit of "bleed" air into the crankcase during operation. It still pulls a good vacuum with the engine running.
I was actually going to ask if you have a fresh air source into the engine. You don't happen to have a part number do you?
It's been awhile since I checked, but my friend used to use some electric air pump from a Chevrolet application to suck crankcase vapors. Eliminates the need for having to accommodate the belt driven pump into your serpentine system, and the pump is designed for the application. The pump is noisy as hell though. I don't know what is done differently when it's a factory install to quiet that b itch down, but on the race cars that he uses them on, it sounds like a little shop vac or something. because it's a constant pull, I think there isn't a need to install any bleed restrictors and you can otherwise seal up the engine vent system, running just the one (- whatever) hose to it, and vent the gasses ( from the pump) into your breather tank..
I'm watching you deal with this, because I'll have a template when/if my vapor issue becomes a necessity.
If you want, I can call and find out if he's still using these things, on the cars he builds, and what/where they come from.
If you wouldn't mind reaching out to him, I'd like to know what he uses and how long the pumps have lasted him.
Ah. Figures. I think I'm going to wind up just buying two separate catch cans with good baffle designs and mount them in the front fender areas of the car so the vapors have a long way to travel in a cooler environment. It would be great to do a vacuum pump setup, but mechanical is too difficult for me to mount and the electric ones seem so hit or miss.
Car is back under the knife. I managed to remove the existing catch can without having to pull the dash. My method was rather medieval and harsh, but it's out and a pair of grommet plugs are now occupying the area where the holes used to be. I'm also relocating the fuel pressure regulator outside of the engine bay and changing the route of the fuel return lines. Once the new parts show up, I'll post some pictures. Too much damn heat on that side of the engine bay. Turbo car problems.
The struggle is real. All turbo kits should come with 4 jack stands. They're mandatory.
No part number. I used one of those porous stone "filters" similar to what is pictured. It sits in the grommet that would normally house the PCV valve. It bleeds just a small amount of air into the crankcase during the operation of the vacuum pump. The part I used was taken out of the snout of my Kenne Bell S/C. They use it to vent the front gear case on the blower. I now have a small K&N type filter in its place now.
