Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

Wow. Methanol sure is hungry. It wants to tear apart everything it comes in contact with. So what do the big boy alcohol dragster and pro mod teams do for fuel systems? Are their budgets just so big that they replace fittings and components every season?
 
Exactly that, they have hosts of fittings and lines that are replaced regularly. I personally don't have the budget for that and didn't get the full scoop before making the switch. There are tons and tons of advantages to Methanol, it supports some incredible HP it just happens to be very corrosive. I'll be most curious in another 2 months when we tear my motor down to see the full extent of the wear and tear. I have a good base line to know what it should look like for comparison sake.
After we developed a serious fuel leak on the starting line at YellowBullet and almost burned my car up I started hearing more and more horror stories from friends of friends who have had similar problems. I don't have pictures of the orings but they literally disintegrated. I sure wouldn't want to see what Methanol would to do paint ...
 
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Grabbed a few pictures tonight.

Here is the new route for the return lines. The Y block is mounted right under the frame rail.
DSC_3728_zps7rgudvoj.webp

Compare that to how they used to run.
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Here is the area behind the strut tower.
DSC_3727_zpst4bnlxnf.webp

It used to be a bit more cluttered
DSC_2535_zps89e543c9.webp

The fuel regulator is hiding in the fender, but I can still see the pressure gauge.
DSC_3737_zpsakxdlbww.webp
 
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Grabbed a few pictures tonight.

Here is the new route for the return lines. The Y block is mounted right under the frame rail.
DSC_3728_zps7rgudvoj.webp

Compare that to how they used to run.
DSC_2174_zps3475e249.webp


Here is the area behind the strut tower.
DSC_3727_zpst4bnlxnf.webp

It used to be a bit more cluttered
DSC_2535_zps89e543c9.webp

The fuel regulator is hiding in the fender, but I can still see the pressure gauge.
DSC_3737_zpsakxdlbww.webp

You don't think the way you have the return lines so close to the head(maybe even touching) that you will still have the same problem with higher fuel temps? Of course the head won't get as hot as the turbo downpipe but it still gets pretty hot. Just asking. :shrug:
 
You don't think the way you have the return lines so close to the head(maybe even touching) that you will still have the same problem with higher fuel temps? Of course the head won't get as hot as the turbo downpipe but it still gets pretty hot. Just asking. :shrug:

I don't think those lines will get any hotter than the fuel rails, which are probably just as hot as the front of the heads. The front of the engine bay gets way more airflow from the fan than the area near the firewall. I haven't had any hot fuel issues so far, so I'm hopeful I'm okay.

So I'm late to this thread, but the vacuum issue you spoke of a page or two ago.

Powerblock Horsepower just had an esipode on a 76mm turbo' 347 using a Jones serpentine driven vacuum pump. I'll post the link, maybe it will help.

Black & Blue: Stage III | Engine Power | PowerNation TV - Full Episodes

I'd love to run a pump like that. Bolting it up is the issue. I would probably need to make a custom bracket that puts the pump where the a/c used to be without lowering the power steering pump. Damn turbo piping making everything difficult.

Once I can get my hands on some 116 octane fuel locally, the car will be going back to the dyno for what I hope to be some big boost and big numbers.
 
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Here are some pictures of the route for the catch cans. This is a picture looking up into the wheel well where the lines come in behind the strut tower.
DSC_3744_zpsg1dpqidd.webp

And then both of the cans mounted to the studs that hold on the ground effects. They are so light that it shouldn't have any efffect on the strength of the studs. I have two breathers for it, but only the one fits. I need to get a 90 degree adapter to allow the other breather to fit. No big deal.
DSC_3749_zpshk3zbgc4.webp

Here lay the meth tank and electronics. The tank is a Vortech aftercooler tank with a low level indicator and vent that is ran to the outside of the car. I welded in some extra brackets to hold it in place.
DSC_3794_zps5knayhp7.webp

The pump sits in the same area. Fully accessible once the front panel of the rear seat delete is removed.
DSC_3795_zpsm3hyctbw.webp

Dual nozzle setup.
DSC_3740_zpsxptkcmfx.webp

Mounted inside the fender.
DSC_3747_zpsrihrpwcx.webp

In addition to the controller in the rear seat area is the adjustment knob and test button. I decided to put it under the arm rest for easy access.
DSC_3799_zpsakgw2zco.webp

I purged and primed the system and everything works. I still need to road test it under boost. Then it's off to the dyno.
 
I bought some beverages for our date with the dyno on Friday. I don't drink the stuff, but I think she will like it.

uploadfromtaptalk1447534140925.webp
 
Funny,....I told the wife I was done buying stuff for the car, and all that's left is labor.
Looks like there will always be something to spend money on, long after its done.
Always Mike. It literally never ends. Other than some new front seats and a few small tweaks to fix little odds and ends on the car, the winter should be pretty quiet for me.

I will need to get the front bumper repainted. There are stress cracks in the paint. It's probably from waiting too long to install the bumper on the car after it was painted. I'm hoping my painter can help me out on the cost to repaint it.