We're just conversating. If you still have it around Christmas we'll be talking selling.Dont you know you're not supposed to try and sell cars in "non-classified" sections.
Uhhh....1700.00![]()
We're just conversating. If you still have it around Christmas we'll be talking selling.Dont you know you're not supposed to try and sell cars in "non-classified" sections.
Uhhh....1700.00![]()
And here I was looking for a way of repaying you.Just ordered the quarter window repair kit with new motors from late model restoration a new quarter window weatherstripping seeing as the window misalignment has torn the ones that are on there now. Once I get these parts in I'll pull out the stereo so I can get in there. Once I get the quarter Windows adjusted then I'll start on getting the doors and windows adjusted I'll probably need to go down and buy an extra bag of expletives

Okay guys I've been on a covert ops mission trying to keep this a secret today was Dyno day.! Before I give you the printed sheet I want everyone to guess the horsepower and torque numbers I'll even give you a video of the first pull.
Unfortunately I was only able to make two pull today. The retaining clip on the snout of the supercharger decided it wanted to disappear along with the groove that holds it in and the seal walked out the front no biggie that unfortunately can't be fixed I'm not sure what to do about that except find a new M90 snout. And on the second pull the power steering pump decided it wanted to puke fluid out the top all over the engine bay all cuz the kid making the full decided to let the engine whine down instead of just pushing in the clutch. Oh well.
Something else to keep in mind according to Eaton's website this supercharger has a parasitic loss of almost 65 horsepower at the RPM that I'm spinning it at.
View: https://youtu.be/9aOvpsJ9gbY

I'm gonna say 116.Ok Steve, I'm guessing it has at least 115 at the tires.![]()
I know that you've said it elsewhere,....what's the boost number?Let me say first that I'm kinda disappointed..... second pull is the red line after adding 1.5* of timing, lost power that's when **** hot the fan..lol I have a feeling less timing will net gains.
Blue line 24*
Red line 26*
HP=282![]()
TQ=386
I also don't see how I'm using 70% duty cycle on a set of 50lb injectors and only making 280HP.........
@hoopty5.0 @Boosted92LX @A5literMan @Gearbanger 101 @Noobz347
Stock lines and rails. 50lb injectors, Kirban FPR, Walboro GSS255lph HP
base fp set to 40lbs.
Some chit that Noobz dug up said:Don’t be concerned about the slight difference in flow between the Shelby 233L and a Ford GT 241L pump(s). Instead, worry more about
VOLTAGE FLUCTUATIONS that can starve your engine of fuel by 26% and more. Note the huge flow variations that result from a 1-2V
variation from the OEM “rated” 13.0V (see comparison) - up to -26% (342L vs 404L). The unique built in voltage stabilizer on the BOOST-
A-PUMP™ eliminates dangerous voltage/fuel pressure and flow fluctuations. it will maintain correct voltage within .1% as low as 11 volts,
a full 26% flow reduction. Normal voltage is 13.0 V. If your battery is low or the alternator dies, your fuel system has protection from a 26%
“lean out.”
You may be on to something there.... it is all stock wiring feeding the fuel pump... Batteries are in the trunk any reason why I cant use the factory relay feed wiring to trigger another relay in the trunk.?? this way its a 16" trip fro the battery to the pump.Try turning up the pressure say... 5 psi. If the duty cycle falls then that generally indicates that you're getting adequate volume (there's and intersection between volume and pressure for any pump. You want to be on the left side of that intersection). If the duty cycle increases, then it's not.
This graph:
![]()
leads me to believe that you have an electrical or pump issue.
From the left side of the graph: Plenty of voltage/current saturation. As RPM rises and puts more demand on the electrical system, things begin to get dodgy.
Granted that this is just an AFR graph but checking voltage at the pump during a pull might reveal the gremlin. Pulling voltage readings from the coil might be a good idea too.
The pump you have installed should be adequate for your purpose (discounting malfunction of course).
Here's an old(er) article:
http://anyflip.com/upza/hksk/basic
It is not the article I set out to find for you but it still explains the dilemma that I'm referring to.
Specifically:
You may be on to something there.... it is all stock wiring feeding the fuel pump... Batteries are in the trunk any reason why I cant use the factory relay feed wiring to trigger another relay in the trunk.?? this way its a 16" trip fro the battery to the pump.
I don't see why not. Should be just as easy to trouble-shoot since you know it's there. lol
In my mind, I would put a boost-a-pump --and-- a boost-a-spark (or equivalent) on every Fox body out there. Coil saturation is affected in the same way as the fuel pump system.