Progress Thread My Kenne Bell Twin Screw'd Foxbody thread, (new addition to the family)
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I cut mine down and installed a small clamp. If I'd have thought of just bending it, I probably would have.
- Mar 2, 2015
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I had my shaft shortened so the seal rode on the clean part of the shaft.
I marked where the seal sat...then removed the shaft and marked where the seal used to ride with the SRA.
I then measured and had a driveshaft shop cut it down and balance it. A lot of people clean the shaft with emery cloth and leave it alone.
The IRS moves around way less than a SRA so it might be alright. Too close for my comfort though. I haven't had any issues with wheel hop or weird vibrations. My rear and driveshaft have been in cars of mine for a lot of years and daily driven for a while.
I think the rule of thumb is somewhere between 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch to allow for drive train movement. I'll see if I can get a pic of mine when I get home.
I marked where the seal sat...then removed the shaft and marked where the seal used to ride with the SRA.
I then measured and had a driveshaft shop cut it down and balance it. A lot of people clean the shaft with emery cloth and leave it alone.
The IRS moves around way less than a SRA so it might be alright. Too close for my comfort though. I haven't had any issues with wheel hop or weird vibrations. My rear and driveshaft have been in cars of mine for a lot of years and daily driven for a while.
I think the rule of thumb is somewhere between 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch to allow for drive train movement. I'll see if I can get a pic of mine when I get home.
Not sure if it's easier to bolt this on as a one piece assembled like I am or piece be piece it's a PITA the way I'm doing it. I'm done early for the day to go out for a hike and get dinner with a friend. Hopefully be playing with start up and idle tuning on Friday.
I like it looks good.
To make life easier on you, eliminate idle compressor surge (caused by a surging idle the blower will make it worse) use a small hand vacuum pump and hold the bypass open. Trust me when I say this is much easier when your first starting out...
You can also use this to hold the bypass open on the first few drives, this way you build little to no boost and don't have to worry about that part of the tune until you are ready.
To make life easier on you, eliminate idle compressor surge (caused by a surging idle the blower will make it worse) use a small hand vacuum pump and hold the bypass open. Trust me when I say this is much easier when your first starting out...
You can also use this to hold the bypass open on the first few drives, this way you build little to no boost and don't have to worry about that part of the tune until you are ready.
IIRC the by-pass valve on these is normally open and vac causes it to close and force the air charge through the motor.
If that's correct, the vac line just has to be pulled.
It's been a little while since I looked at it.
Hmm... if that's the case where do you get the vacuum signal from during wot/boost conditions?
FWIW. All the bypass valves I have used are vacuum open.
I can't explain in great detail but these mini cooper type bypass valves are vacuum closed. At idle and cruise (low vacuum) the valve is open to recirculate air. When you step on the gas the valve closes.
Yes that's vacuum open it takes vacuum to open the valve. (Normally closed vacuum open)
I use the mini cooper bypass valve on my homemade setup. The newer valves will start to close with low vacuum 3-5"hg, but higher vacuum causes them to open. 8-10hg and greater.
So a vacuum pump will hold it open.
The way I foggily remember it was normally closed, vac at idle and cruise (high volume) opens it and keeps it open. Stand on the gas pedal and the vac goes away and closes the valve.
I don't have anymore available ports on the inlet so bye bye charcoal canister
I'm thinking I got lucky with no pulley alignment issues but won't be sure till I get a belt. I know some people report being 1 rib off.
I did not experience this issue. Full kit install, all accessories on the drive.
Couple of setbacks today. O-ring that came with the TB is way too big. Also my AFM power pipe coupling won't fit over the throttle body so I need to order a 4" to 3.5" adapter coupling.
Ya know... that's no small thing to miss. The o-ring, I mean. Who checks this stuff?
Bummer on the PP. Are you sure you want to use it?
Hmm, leave the canister in place at least. I just put one back on my car after dealing with gas smells for years. Just leave the line from the canister to the intake tucked away in the fender.
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