Getting rid of those gross fuel lines

[Driver460sz]

Looking to see how folks have dumped their fuel rails and hard lines for AN ones all the way out of the engine bay. Also, looking to see how folks have set up FPR, gauges and new lines on upgraded fuel rails........

And go

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I can't play in this oneI-6 cylinder stuff...

 

[2000xp8]

My question would be why? Is this a show car? Make over 550rwhp? Fuel system parts are really expensive and and if you don't actually need it I wouldn't blow money on it. If you go all the way to the tank, it's going to cost 2 grand.

 

[Driver460sz]

My question would be why? Is this a show car? Make over 550rwhp? Fuel system parts are really expensive and and if you don't actually need it I wouldn't blow money on it. If you go all the way to the tank, it's going to cost 2 grand.

Just looking to come off the fuel rail (bbk) using a billet regular and gauge and then use some AN lines down to the bottom of the engine. That's all...nothing crazy. Some folks mount things all over and connect in different spots. I just wanted to see. And I will be between 576-640 crank hp...so getting close to your suggested number.

But I do not want to run lines front to back. Just changing the fuel pump in the back.

Thanks for the advice. Not a show car but The entire motor, and all parts (except a/c compressor and Power steering pump) are new. But those parts are painted to match the block and other components.

 

[2000xp8]

You can buy adapters that connect to the factory hard lines (the spot that needs the removal tool on the passenger side by the header), but that won't be all the way out of the engine bay. Any further and you might as well go all in. Still going to cost $500+ with good rails and regulator. If you go cheap, don't be surprised when it leaks.

 

[Driver460sz]

You can buy adapters that connect to the factory hard lines (the spot that needs the removal tool on the passenger side by the header), but that won't be all the way out of the engine bay. Any further and you might as well go all in. Still going to cost $500+ with good rails and regulator. If you go cheap, don't be surprised when it leaks.

You can buy adapters that connect to the factory hard lines (the spot that needs the removal tool on the passenger side by the header), but that won't be all the way out of the engine bay. Any further and you might as well go all in. Still going to cost $500+ with good rails and regulator. If you go cheap, don't be surprised when it leaks.

I went BBK high flow aluminum rails, Kirban regulator, and BBK gauge (Purchased already). Now I guess some would say this is "cheap" because it isn't top of the line. Hopefully, I will be fine.

I was looking at the Russell's 1986-1993 Mustang stainless steel -6 AN fuel line kit is a great upgrade for stock fuel hoses from LMR. Which I think gets me far enough but just curious what others are rocking. I could ditch the Russell lines at $85 and buy a 12-foot roll or something like that from JEGS with ends for like $110. That doesn't solve how I would run the gauge on the BBK set up with the aforementioned Russell lines.

 

[Anti_Hero0932]

i got adapters that are the quick connects to AN and just did a Malory adjustable regulator and some after market rails. if i need more fuel ill make some lines and i think they make a hat for your tank that accepts the an fittings wouldnt be to bad.

or look up sloppy mechanics they do all kinds of crazy things.

 

[TOOLOW91]

If you use -6an to go from the rails to the adapters to the stock lines . This may help you out .

 

[Anti_Hero0932]

IMO buy this line as well its way easier than the silver stuff.

 

[Anti_Hero0932]

your stock fuel line connectors look like this they are reasonable. proly would need 10' or so of line depending on where you mount your regulator

 

[TOOLOW91]

IMO buy this line as well its way easier than the silver stuff.

Much . I just did mine all with vibrant red stripe with the black

 

[2000xp8]

Push lock is even easier and cheaper.

 

[Anti_Hero0932]

i used push locks on the truck im building for the transmission lines. they were pretty awesome. didnt really know if you could use them on fuel lines or not

 

[2000xp8]

Yeah, it's for fuel line too.
It may go by the name of earl's push on, I can't remember.
I liked it because it's a clean factory type of look instead of the flashy stainless.
The black lightweight stuff is cool too, but when doing an entire fuel system, it gets pricey.

 

[Anti_Hero0932]

yeah fragola i think is what its called. i think i used Gates line just because that was easy to get for me.

i may have to look into this if i ever get enough power to get new lines from my tank to rails.

 

[Lunysgwen]

I went BBK high flow aluminum rails, Kirban regulator, and BBK gauge (Purchased already). Now I guess some would say this is "cheap" because it isn't top of the line. Hopefully, I will be fine.

I was looking at the Russell's 1986-1993 Mustang stainless steel -6 AN fuel line kit is a great upgrade for stock fuel hoses from LMR. Which I think gets me far enough but just curious what others are rocking. I could ditch the Russell lines at $85 and buy a 12-foot roll or something like that from JEGS with ends for like $110. That doesn't solve how I would run the gauge on the BBK set up with the aforementioned Russell lines.

Do you happen to have a Trickflow intake? If you do - Are you aware of the clearance issues?

 

[Driver460sz]

Do you happen to have a Trickflow intake? If you do - Are you aware of the clearance issues?

Going to instead try the one-inch intake heat spacer and see how that clears. I think it will work. (Versus the 3/8 one)

 

[Lunysgwen]

Going to instead try the one-inch intake heat spacer and see how that clears. I think it will work. (Versus the 3/8 one)

I've had one issue with the 3/8's spacer. I use a BBK fuel rail+BBK fuel regulator and the regulator's vaccum line port juuuuust blocks the intake from being installed with no issues. I had to loosen the rail and pull it back to install the intake (I did not completely take it off). Otherwise the 3/8 spacer was perfect. Certainly saved my fuel injectors from being torn up by the upper intake. Also let's me see under it!

Edit - I too run AN-6 and AN-8 lines to my fuel rails first starting from the lines just coming into the engine bay. I trust the fully metal lines from Ford significantly more then braided lines being run under a car.

 

[Driver460sz]

I've had one issue with the 3/8's spacer. I use a BBK fuel rail+BBK fuel regulator and the regulator's vaccum line port juuuuust blocks the intake from being installed with no issues. I had to loosen the rail and pull it back to install the intake (I did not completely take it off). Otherwise the 3/8 spacer was perfect. Certainly saved my fuel injectors from being torn up by the upper intake. Also let's me see under it!

Edit - I too run AN-6 and AN-8 lines to my fuel rails first starting from the lines just coming into the engine bay. I trust the fully metal lines from Ford significantly more then braided lines being run under a car.

So do you suggest the 3/8 over the one inch? I should have room to use the one inch under the hood but if you say 3/8 works. I will go with that.