Driveline to new tranny question

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
5,463
2,892
173
Florida
If I take out my SROD 4 speed and replace it with a TKO or TKX, can I bolt back in the same driveline if I put a 31 spline yoke on it??
Also noticed that yokes come from 6" to 7.5" long.. Any ideas on which one to use?? TY all
 
IF i have to shorten/lengthen the driveline to do this, I might as well do the 9 inch rear end change out also....
 
Initial reports are that the TKX is an exact replacement for the TKO. SO as long as the spline/yokes are correct and will mate up, it should be a direct swap.

Now, SROD to TKX im not sure of, but look at what would be necessary to convert your SROD to a TKO and that should also apply
 
Initial reports are that the TKX is an exact replacement for the TKO. SO as long as the spline/yokes are correct and will mate up, it should be a direct swap.

Now, SROD to TKX im not sure of, but look at what would be necessary to convert your SROD to a TKO and that should also apply
At this point I guess I need to look up the lengths of the SROD and the TKS or TKO...
What I do know is I will need a new 26 spline clutch disc, new crossmember and a 31 spline yoke sofar.....

UPDATE... Looks like the SROD and the T5 are the same length, but the TKO is 7 inches longer... Things just got MORE expensive again...LOL
 
Last edited:
The SROD and T-5 do not have the same bell housing. Which does the TKO and TKX take? After a shop could not keep first gear from popping into N in an SROD, I would be glad to see it go away.
 
Were you talking about your SROD??
Yes, I am talking about an SROD and encouraging your upgrade. The shift forks and synchros in the SROD on first gear in my 79 Mustang 5.0 were already acting up when I got it. The popping out gear was not easy to get fixed. After it was fixed until I sold it, I shifted and clutched smoothly before applying full power. (no power shifts or clutch dump burnouts.)
 
My sister had really good luck with the SROD in this car.. She told me it never missed a beat.. But I agree with you.. While the engine is out it would be nice to attach a new TKX to it and install it back as unit ONE time, instead of installing a new transmission a few months or a year later... I am 65 and pretty sure I would not be able to lift a transmission up anymore.... A transmission jack I guess.....

With all the money I am putting in the car ( new engine, interior, etc) It is tempting to spend the $114 on a rebuild kit for the SROD for now, and drive it for a year or so to save up some money for the TKX, 9", 5 lug changeover at a later date...

Again my question on here ( which I think I figured out) is I will have to install a new or shortened drive line and I would like to do that only once, hence the talk of doing the rear end housing I want to do, with the 5 lug upgrade, When the 5 speed upgrade is being done..
 
Last edited:
No, I dont think I will be using a USED rear end... Headaches?

I'd rather put a used 8.8 in my car than deal with the hassle of trying to put a 9" rear in and getting setup correctly. An 8.8 is a direct bolt in. A 9" (unless you buy one of those $4K ready to go 9" rears) is not.

If you plan on putting down more than 800HP have the tubes welded up, or put 9" ends on an 8.8. At least the suspension geometry won't be ruined due to the size of the center section causing the upper arm mounts to be lifted up 2" or so. You'll need to weld those onto the 9" rear. You'll be chasing your tail trying to get that instant center adjusted right. The 9" weighs more unless you have an aluminum center section. Brake options other than the original drums are non-existent without buying high end aftermarket parts.

There's a reason why Fox and SN95 guys mod the 8.8 vs swap in a 9". It's virtually non-existent swap for street cars. It's a headache and not worth it for anything short of a serious 800+HP drag car, which is what I don't think you are building here considering it's a stock '83 convertible. WHat is your powerplant plan that you'd put in front of a TKX/9" rear?

Cleaned up 8.8, moser 31-spline axles, 31-spline diff, rebuilt with CF clutch disks, new bearings, seals etc. Weld up the axle tubes if you really want to put serious power through it. Tons of 5-lug rear disk brake options. Bolts right in, no suspension geometry issues to worry about. Will take PLENTY of power.

If you want more feedback on it, start a thread. But you'll likely get the same response. Stick to an 8.8 based rear.
 
Last edited:
The ready made custom 9 inch housings with 31 spline axles that are bolt in for a fox body, are $900 ( FREE shipping.. ) As I said earlier I have a "N" 9 inch pumpkin with 350 gears on an Eaton Positraction unit sitting in my garage.... Drum brakes on the rear are OK with me.....

I have rebuilt some 9" rears and know something about them, and know Nothing about the 8.8.. I do like the removable pumpkin rear ends over the NON removable units....

You are correct that this will be a very mild build, more close to stock than " built " ... Not the reason for wanting a 9 " .....

Now your statement has said using a ford 9" will create geometry problems and pinion angle problems?? I have not read that anywhere

I installed a Dutchman bolt in 9" rear on my 77 chevy step side low rider after not being able to find parts for the rear in it.. I know this is apples and oranges somewhat, but it was one of the best things I did for my "boat puller" years ago.....
 

Attachments

  • DSCF0225.webp
    DSCF0225.webp
    270.6 KB · Views: 121
Now your statement has said using a ford 9" will create geometry problems and pinion angle problems?? I have not read that anywhere

This article goes into it with regards to the instant center. I incorrectly stated pinion angle.


It's a bigger issue for those who grab a 9" out of an old car with the intention of fabricating custom mounts and putting it in their Fox/Sn95. As you can see from the article, a lot of thought needs to be given to where those mount points are located, and the effect they will have on the axle. In that case, bolting in a 8.8 is MUCH less of a hassle rather than going all that with a custom fabrication job on an axle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: limp
Thanks for the article... Again not going to race this car and I understand your point about not needing the 9 inch because of that.. What I am going to do is try to better the car.. An 8.8 would probably do the job with that in mind....
I might keep my eyes open and see what is available with any 8.8 rears...
Appreciate your opinions and thoughts on here.....