Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build

Can someone please confirm that the high torque starter that is the correct application for a build like this is the Denso 280-5103? I'm not sure if the Late Model Restoration SVE is a remanufactured Denso or not. Bonus points if it has that 1993 starter sound.
That dense starter will work, but like toolow said, you might as well just get one from the parts store, as most come with a lifetime warranty.
 
Yes, I got the stock valve covers to work with both my Canfield Heads, and a set of Windsor Jr. heads I had. It's not enough to remove the baffles, you have to cut the studs the rivets go into. If that won't clear, then get the Trick Flow valve covers. They are cheap, and will give you lots of clearance on the intake.

You are going to max out that Lightning MAF with a 363 engine. You are going to need a better MAF. The Lightning MAF has the cross sectional area, but the electronics aren't very good.

I am working on the starter. I thought I had the specific part number here. There is a power master equivalent available. This is what you are looking for.


This is a starter based on the Denso gear reduction starter used on so many factory vehicles. This starter can pull the car up onto a rollback. Ask me how I know.

Kurt
Yeesh. That starter is a monster.
 
I'm cobbling together my list of parts and will list it here within a fee more days in order to get Stangnet's input if I'm missing anything. I'm still unable to find a specific long tube manufacturer for the heads.
 
That dense starter will work, but like toolow said, you might as well just get one from the parts store, as most come with a lifetime warranty.
I had serious problems with the parts store starters getting heat soaked by the long tube headers. It's not much more money than a parts store starter, and I used to be a parts store manager. I recommend going to the gear reduction starter every time.

Kurt
 
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I'm cobbling together my list of parts and will list it here within a fee more days in order to get Stangnet's input if I'm missing anything. I'm still unable to find a specific long tube manufacturer for the heads.

The BBK headers work. I have them on my Canfield 192cc 17 degree Heads, which arguably have the highest raised exhaust port ever made.

Kurt
 
Yeesh. That starter is a monster.
It's worth it. I have one on my car that is old enough to buy alcoholic berages now. I have put many more on other cars since then. The Denso gear reduction absolutely cranks no matter the conditions. You can watch the tachometer climb before the engine fires off; it's that aggressive.

Kurt
 
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I had serious problems with the parts store starters getting heat soaked by the long tube headers. It's not much more money than a parts store starter, and I used to be a parts store manager. I recommend going to the gear reduction starter every time.

Kurt
The car quest one I have is a pmgr, and I’ve used a pa performance one as well with good results. The parts store starter in the car spends it’s life a couple inches from some long tubes, and I’ve never seen problems with it.

Really the whole reason I recommend one from a local parts house is it makes warranting them easier.
 
Yes, I got the stock valve covers to work with both my Canfield Heads, and a set of Windsor Jr. heads I had. It's not enough to remove the baffles, you have to cut the studs the rivets go into. If that won't clear, then get the Trick Flow valve covers. They are cheap, and will give you lots of clearance on the intake.

You are going to max out that Lightning MAF with a 363 engine. You are going to need a better MAF. The Lightning MAF has the cross sectional area, but the electronics aren't very good.

I am working on the starter. I thought I had the specific part number here. There is a power master equivalent available. This is what you are looking for.


This is a starter based on the Denso gear reduction starter used on so many factory vehicles. This starter can pull the car up onto a rollback. Ask me how I know.

Kurt
Is that thing a direct bolt in? It looks bulky and huge.
 
Car quest starter. I’ve never EVER since 2014 having long tubes have ever had Heat soak starter issue.

As far as maf is concerned - 80mm pro m and done .
 
Car quest starter. I’ve never EVER since 2014 having long tubes have ever had Heat soak starter issue.

As far as maf is concerned - 80mm pro m and done .
$103. Not bad.
Screenshot_20211215-220413_Chrome.webp
 
Continuing my research on a complete engine swap;

What are the two sensors on the front of the lower intake? I plan to just buy new ones.
The 2 piece oil sending unit.. Is it just the stem (oil sending unit fitting) and the oil pressure sender?
 
This is what I have so far. I'll be pulling my accessories (3G alternator, power steering, etc) from my current engine. What am I missing besides valve covers?

Engine

Ford Racing Z2363 engine (rear sump): $10,499.99

Trick Flow R-Series intake w/90mm opening (silver): $729.99

Trick Flow 3/8 intake spacer: $72.99 (TFS-51520009)

Accufab 90mm throttle body: $289.99

Accufab 2” wide 90mm throttle body spacer: $94.99

44 pound injectors: $524.99

1 7/8” long tubes: ? Hooker makes the 6227-1HKR which work with the M-6049-Z2 heads

Anderson Power Pipe; #AF-0112A-90: $276.59

Anderson filter and coupler for ’03-’04 Cobra MAF; #KITLMF: $72.95

JMS MAF extension harness and Pro-M 4 to 6 pin adapter: jms-8695-ext ($49) and PMR9304 ($45)

Misc lower intake sensors:

Oil sending unit:



Transmission

D&D Transmission Fox Body T-56 transmission kit w/2.97 first gear: $4,995.00

Ask them about my application and whether they suggest the 2.66 or 2.97 first gear trans



Suggested additional items:

Relocated throttle bracket https://mc-machine.com/ols/products/50-throttle-cable-bracket

Denso high torque starter #280-5103