Progress Thread Nicholase "lights out" build- TKX install

[nicholase]

For the fuel lines at the engine I wanted to clean up the Vortech FMU lines. The kit left the factory engine hard lines in place and connected at the return line connection down by the sway bar. The power pipe was rubbing hard on the steel pressure line and Schrader valve. I also wanted a good spot to mount my fuel pressure sender for the guage.

I used the parts from a Russell foxbody AN fuel line kit. For the pressure line from the fuel rail to the plastic line at the sway bar I used the line in the kit. The only modification was adding a Earl's tee for the fuel line guage and trimming the braided line a bit. Tee is part # EAR-AT100199ERL.

For the return line I used the 2 quick connect fittings from the Russell kit to connect the Vortech line to the fuel rail. This way I could go from the fuel rail to the FMU and then form the FMU to the connection at the sway bar eliminating the hard line. It's a lot cleaner than before. The only addition fitting I needed was a -6AN union to go between the 2 Russell quick connects at the fuel rail. Part # AT91506ERL.

The FMU Fittings are SAE, which look pretty close to AN, will thread together, but aren't compatible and will leak. Different shoulder angle. That's why I couldn't just run the Russell line from the rail to the FMU.

This really helped with fuel line clearance on the power pipe.

 

[nicholase]

During the installation I noticed the original radiator seemed pretty lame. It worked fine before, didn't leak. But I had it out when I installed the supercharger and it sure is thin. I was thinking it would be a good time to replace it.

I wanted something of good quality. Price isn't much consideration, as long as I don't get leaks and quality issues. I heard good things about Dewitt's. They're made in Minnesota. I went with their direct fit pro series. It has two 1" cores. I'm glad I didn't go with the 1.25 tubes because I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have fit.

The unit is for sure beautiful. They use stamped tanks over the rectangle box welded tanks you usually see.

But I will say they use the term "direct fit" very loosely lol.

The outlets are in the correct spots and are the correct diameter. Front front it is similar in dimension.

It's the thickness of the dual 1" cores that makes it a snug fit for a supercharged application.

I tied some of the catch can lines out of the way with some old red wire so I could pull the rad in and out easily. There is only an inch of clearance between the inlet and the S/C pulley.

There are 3 harnesses that runs between the radiator and condenser. They need to be rerouted.

#1 I relocated the 4ga wire for my 140a alternator to the harness that attaches to the oil pan studs and ran it up with the factory engine ground to battery cable.

#2 The air bag sensor wires moved from the face of the radiator support(between rad and condensor) to underneath it. It was secured with push clips. I drilled some holes under the upper radiator support and re used the push pins. The upper support is a rectangle box. I had to be carefully drilling into it because I had run my new MSD6BTM harness through there.

#3 The other harness had the MAF and some other stuff in it. I moved that to bumper support. I used the push pins to secure it.

Pic taken from under car looking up at the bottom of the radiator support

Now I was able to get the radiator closer to the condenser and get the clearance I needed. Just enough.

It was much thicker, so the factory upper hold downs wouldn't work. I used the stainless kit from LMR for the top. The bottom I used a new rubber kit but they required some trimming with a razor blade. I also replaced the factory plastic overflow tank with a SVE aluminum one.

 

[nicholase]

Here are some pics of the engine bay as it stands now.

 

[nicholase]

During this phase i also did some upgrades tot he A/C. It had been converted to R134 by the previous owner. I noticed after pulling it out of storage this summer ther was some evidence of a leak at the compressor manifold. With it so far disassembled it made sense to re work it.

I used a parallel flow condenser from LMR. I also replaced the liquid line, evaporator, compressor manifold, and all the o rings. I also located a Ford OEM pressure switch.

I cleaned up the original compressor as best I could, added some fresh Ester oil and hooked up the guages. I pulled 30" vacuum for about an hour and let it sit overnight. All seemed well so I ran the vacuum pump for another hour just to burn off any residual moisture and then charged it up to 90% the factory r12 charge.

I use the 12oz cans and a postage scale to weigh them.

She blows really nice and cold. I think the parallel flow condensor really helped because it's blowing much colder amd working better than the last two summers I've had it.

 

[nicholase]

I also forgot to mention that while I was doing the radiator I replaced the t-stat and installed a new water neck with a bung in case I decide to run an electric fan. Also new coolant hoses. Upper, lower, and heater hoses. One of the new heater hoses had a restriction in it. Apparently it helps the core last longer. While I generally enjoy doing this stuff, replacing a heater coil is probably the least fun thing to do. If you know, you know.

 

[gkomo]

Are you like catching up this thread on previous work done or are you just doing a ton of work on your car right now?? So much going on, and your posts are very detailed. I may have missed it but is your engine stock. I see the stock intake manifold.

 

[nicholase]

Are you like catching up this thread on previous work done or are you just doing a ton of work on your car right now?? So much going on, and your posts are very detailed. I may have missed it but is your engine stock. I see the stock intake manifold.

Both lol. Post #3 and on were over the last 2 months. So a ton of work this summer. Still working on a few things. Just wanted to get caught up so I can keep a build thread as I go forward.

The engine is stock.

 

[nicholase]

The only thing I won't do here without a lift is rear end gears. The car had original 3.08 gears in it. I had some seepage at the pinion seal so it was a good time to get that all taken care of.

I had 3.55 ring and pinion installed as well as a new pinion seal, axle seals, and axle bearings. I went with a Ford Racing girdle cover. Really wanted to have the drain for it.

They seem to be the perfect ratio for me. Really glad I went that route.

 

[nicholase]

So now we're all caught up. Anything going forward is new.

 

[AeroCoupe]

That is one clean car and gotta hand it to you for the detailed install and fab skills.

 

[nicholase]

That is one clean car and gotta hand it to you for the detailed install and fab skills.

Thanks man! It is clean. Anything 35 years old is really hard to find in this shape, especially foxbodies. I'm trying to do the car right and give it my best effort with everything I do.

Hopefully some of the info I posted will come in handy to someone else.

 

[Mac131]

Thanks man! It is clean. Anything 35 years old is really hard to find in this shape, especially foxbodies. I'm trying to do the car right and give it my best effort with everything I do.

Hopefully some of the info I posted will come in handy to someone else.

Wow man...incredible work and skill. That is one beautiful car. I just bought a 93 LX Hatch that I'm restoring. Bit by bit it will be a beauty in time. I'm currently replacing/fixing the usual stuff first. This way I will have a baseline to go off of. I have my progress on here as well. I'll be following this thread.

 

[gkomo]

Thats a clean a** undercarriage.

 

[nicholase]

End of summer parts dump. This will be the last of it for this summer. Aluminum driveshaft, driveshaft bolts, new exhaust, hanger brackets, MM rear upper control arms, axle housing bushings.

I should be able to get this all sorted out this weekend. I'll take some progress pics and post it up along the way.

 

[Mac131]

The only thing I won't do here without a lift is rear end gears. The car had original 3.08 gears in it. I had some seepage at the pinion seal so it was a good time to get that all taken care of.

I had 3.55 ring and pinion installed as well as a new pinion seal, axle seals, and axle bearings. I went with a Ford Racing girdle cover. Really wanted to have the drain for it.

They seem to be the perfect ratio for me. Really glad I went that route.

Seriously...what did you do/use to get the under carriage this nice?

 

[limp]

I met a guy at a car show who told me his " garage " for his car had ramps it drove onto, so he could " creeper " under it " after every drive" and clean it.....

 

[nicholase]

Seriously...what did you do/use to get the under carriage this nice?

Well, I got it from the second owner that had it since 93. It's always been a good weather car and has low miles so it was pretty clean underneath when I got it.

I just clean up areas I work on really good as I go. Take my time. Little by little. I drive it occasionally on nice days so it stays pretty clean. It's a hobby for me.

I use Chemical Guys Bare Bones on the chassis. Works great for wheel well areas and the undercarriage in general.

https://www.chemicalguys.com/products/barebones

 

[nicholase]

While I was in there planning the driveshaft install and what it would entail, I noticed the rear upper control arm bushing showed some age. I couldn't feel any looseness or anything, but I could see the rubber bushings in the axle were splitting a bit. With it all up on stands and the exhaust out of the way I figured it was as good of a time as any to swap them out. I'm currently using the Maximun Motorsports lower control arms and they recommend using these uppers for a good combination.

 

[nicholase]

After I had the 3.55 rear end gears installed I noticed that I picked up a driveline vibration around 70mph. After some investigation I determined it to be the driveshaft.

I grabbed a Ford Performance aluminum driveshaft to get rid of the vibes and also figured the weight reduction would help with performance a bit.

The aluminum driveshaft diameter is much larger than the steel one so the only way to maintain clearance on full droop was to rotate the Magnaflow mufflers at pretty extreme angles. The look from the rear with the angled mufflers bugged me. I was also looking for excuses to try something different after having the MF exhaust on there for the last two summers.


So I grabbed a Bassaini SS cat back exhaust. The mufflers are narrower than the MF so I figured it would fit better. MF on the left, Bassani on the right

The Bassani exhaust looks really well made. The mufflers are a different type of construction than what I'm used to. The Magnaflows are perforated straight through, flowmasters are chambered, these are sort of a combination of both. They have two parallel straight through tubes with a chamber in the front and back.

Looking in the front of the muffler you can see the chamber and the perforated tube. The rear of the muffler looks the same.

Can sorta see the second parallel perforated tube here

It's an interesting construction. It seems like a cross between a straight through and a chambered muffler much like the Bassani X pipe seems more like a hybrid of an H and X.

It's also sort of a hybrid between sizes. It starts out as 2½" , the muffler in and out are 2½", then after the axle it's 3" with 3" tips

I was thinking it would match well with the Bassani catted X-pipe currently on the car and the JBA shorties. I have a feeling it's going to sound great.

 

[nicholase]

I also had to grab new hangers for the mufflers. The old Magnaflow system came with different body mount hangers so I needed the original style. Somewhere I have the originals. Somewhere....