1986 Manual Swapped 5.0 Misfire + Other odd issue
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prolly a computer the factory installs in several models with the same engine.The part number on the EEC came up for an E-250 Van?
I really didn't look too much on the numbers, this kindle can be stupid at times, needed year of body and what the engine came out of.
He'll be back in a few .
I hope
Sorry for the weird wording in the first post I didn't know if having a Lincoln was forbidden or not on this page but the car itself has the original engine. Although I recall doing one thing that could be causing my issues (Not sure though but I want to give full disclosure) when I did the wiring for the T5 transmission I hooked up the safety switch. From what I've read the big difference between an auto and manual computer is how the car restricts the user from starting the car in a manner that could cause damage.prolly a computer the factory installs in several models with the same engine.
I really didn't look too much on the numbers, this kindle can be stupid at times, needed year of body and what the engine came out of.
He'll be back in a few .
I hope
Given that the issue goes away as soon as I push the clutch in is there a possibility that the wired in neutral safety switch could be interfering with how the car is running? If you've done a T5 swap before did you just connect safety switch wires w/o using the switch on the transmission if you had kept the auto computer?
I've also noticed that I can wiggle the connector up to the IAC pretty easily
That could be causing a chain reaction effect while driving
Ok, 1986 Mark ll with the original engine. Check.
You need to find a computer that matches that model, if that's the original computer then send it out to get checked,
Problem started after trans swap then go back and make sure the wiring ain't pinched someplace, grounds in place.
The switch for the clutch peddle is just for the starter, nothing there to effect the running, only cranking (as far as I know)
You need to find a computer that matches that model, if that's the original computer then send it out to get checked,
Problem started after trans swap then go back and make sure the wiring ain't pinched someplace, grounds in place.
The switch for the clutch peddle is just for the starter, nothing there to effect the running, only cranking (as far as I know)
Ok, 1986 Mark ll with the original engine. Check.
You need to find a computer that matches that model, if that's the original computer then send it out to get checked,
Problem started after trans swap then go back and make sure the wiring ain't pinched someplace, grounds in place.
The switch for the clutch peddle is just for the starter, nothing there to effect the running, only cranking (as far as I know)
You need to find a computer that matches that model, if that's the original computer then send it out to get checked,
Problem started after trans swap then go back and make sure the wiring ain't pinched someplace, grounds in place.
The switch for the clutch peddle is just for the starter, nothing there to effect the running, only cranking (as far as I know)
This would be a computer that matches that model if I type in the number on Rock Auto it does show results for the 1986 - 1987 Lincoln Mark VII and Mercury Cougar. If it helps this vehicle was sold and imported from California so there could be a difference in part numbers with the different emissions standards.
That^^^and the info I'v found that should be a HO engine.
I'd send the computer in to ECUExchange and get checked out, swap those plugs and prolly wires and cap/rotor. See how it runs then.
I'd send the computer in to ECUExchange and get checked out, swap those plugs and prolly wires and cap/rotor. See how it runs then.
Well everyone I want to thank you for your help I think now I've fixed the issue with the car (I'll give it a test tomorrow) One of the capacitors on the board was bulged and wasn't anywhere near being in spec (Completely dead) So now I've replaced it with a new one.
Hello everyone. Here is another update on my situation. I decided to do more in-depth testing on the TPS with the engine off. I probed the ground and the sending wire and noticed some odd behavior. Without touching the throttle the TPS starts bouncing around from .5 - .8 and then after giving the throttle plate a few blips, it will stabilize. Faulty TPS or something more? I also checked out the voltage going to the TPS and it's a steady 4.98.
Here is a video of what the results look like. Sometimes the idle signal will stabilize but it seems more often it will start having some massive fluctuations.
Here is a video of what the results look like. Sometimes the idle signal will stabilize but it seems more often it will start having some massive fluctuations.
89ripper
Founding Member
Judging by your video, and all the times i screwed around with a tps it shouldnt be bouncing around like that.
On you with that completely. At the beginning, I'm not even touching the throttle it's doing that all by itself. It doesn't settle down until I play with it a bit. With a strong voltage going to it I think a bad TPS is my issue. It would also explain why the idle gets stuck at 1500 occasionally after pushing the clutch in. Fingers crossed a new TPS fixes my issue
Well, I want to thank everyone here for their help and advice. The new TPS sensor has fixed my issues. I left the car unplugged for a week so the first run was pretty rough but everything cleared up on the second drive. It's finally no longer a chore to drive it. 
Spoke a bit too soon. The bucking issue has been resolved but something is still causing this misfire.
What do ya'll think about this.
I pulled the ignition coil from the car and I observed a white spot and a little bit of black around it indicating a spot on the coil that has gotten hot (arcing against itself while under load?). I checked out the primary resistance, jumps between 0.8 and 1.3 ohms. The secondary resistance is a different story...17200 ohms which is out of spec for a TFI car according to Ford.
To clear some things about my ignition system I am running new wires, Motorcraft copper plugs (the previous owner was running platinum plugs on the car) Cap and rotor are perfectly fine, no starting issues it's really something that only happens when the car is under load, when I push the clutch in it goes back to idle like nothing had happened.
Has anyone else had similar readings and issue (With what I assume) with the case arcing against itself?
What do ya'll think about this.
I pulled the ignition coil from the car and I observed a white spot and a little bit of black around it indicating a spot on the coil that has gotten hot (arcing against itself while under load?). I checked out the primary resistance, jumps between 0.8 and 1.3 ohms. The secondary resistance is a different story...17200 ohms which is out of spec for a TFI car according to Ford.
To clear some things about my ignition system I am running new wires, Motorcraft copper plugs (the previous owner was running platinum plugs on the car) Cap and rotor are perfectly fine, no starting issues it's really something that only happens when the car is under load, when I push the clutch in it goes back to idle like nothing had happened.
Has anyone else had similar readings and issue (With what I assume) with the case arcing against itself?
89ripper
Founding Member
89ripper
Founding Member
Alright, that doesnt sound like a lot of miles. I have a lot more on mine than that but to be fair, it is electrical so it was worth considering. Coils can leak which can cause arcing, but i feel youd be able to see this, have you had a look at your engine running in the dark?
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