horse sence
15 Year Member
Valve cover bolts do not enter any coolant passage ,may be leaking from the end of the intake and running around the valve cover but I am not sure that is possible .
Engine 302 oil leak when running
- Thread starter AlexM556
- Start date
DadLife0724
Advanced Member
I pulled the valve cover and took the radiator cap off to compare the fluids and they are both green, but visibly different shades of green. The fluid under the valve cover still feels and smells like oil and the fluid in the radiator still feels and smells like coolant which is weird but I guess this just means it didnt have enough time to completely mix during the couple minutes it was running today. On the bright side, I figured out part of the problem: the previous owner had put the wrong dipstick in it and that was why the oil level was reading wrong. I got the correct one and it now shows full with 5 quarts as it should so at least that part is solved. No idea why or how coolant is mixing with oil all of a sudden though.
DadLife0724
Advanced Member
For your sake, I hope they aren't mixing. You got something goofy going on somewhere. I'd say run it more and get it hotter to see if you find more coolant, but it seems you can't do that without damn near starting a fire. I'd keep after that oil leak and pretend the coolant thing isn't a thing right now. Once you get the oil buttoned up, then turn to the coolant issue if you are still finding it.
I talked to a friend about all this and he suggested that the coolant may have come from the intake manifold. Even though I drained the oil and coolant before replacing the gaskets, I didnt think to check the oil drain plug again before refilling the oil in case some coolant managed to get in there. Does that sound right?
Blackhawkxx
Mustang Master
- Mar 3, 2023
- 558
- 557
- 103
It seems like a little coolant gets spilled into the engine when removing the intake but it shouldn't be too much.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
A few thoughts
Been there, done that
3rd time is a charm they say
* Use a couple of bolts made into line up studs to aid in positioning the manifold on your way down
I use clear silicone, very seldom use black and use ultra only on rear axle coverplates (that stuff can take longer to cure)
Let it dry at least 4 hours, preferably overnight
Examine how much excess you had last time when disassembling it this time, and use just an adequate amount, (don't go crazy with it)
I have had to re him rear end pinions (8.8's mostly) several times to get them to stop howling
3rd and even 4th time is a charm
Been there, done that
3rd time is a charm they say
* Use a couple of bolts made into line up studs to aid in positioning the manifold on your way down
I use clear silicone, very seldom use black and use ultra only on rear axle coverplates (that stuff can take longer to cure)
Let it dry at least 4 hours, preferably overnight
Examine how much excess you had last time when disassembling it this time, and use just an adequate amount, (don't go crazy with it)
I have had to re him rear end pinions (8.8's mostly) several times to get them to stop howling
3rd and even 4th time is a charm
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
No idea. The engine is from 1978 and was rebuilt in 2004. Im guessing a LOT of miles have been put on it over the years. According to the previous owner, just a few thousand miles since it was rebuilt but at this point I just dont believe that.
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