Kid with polio?
Wheelbarrow uphill?
Now you be funny too? (Said in my best George Thorogood voice)
Wheelbarrow uphill?
Now you be funny too? (Said in my best George Thorogood voice)
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
No the install instructions were all but basically useless, nothing said about belt tension.
Surprisingly the car idled perfectly on first startup. Even surprised myself that I was able pull it off without any major catastrophes. It has since idled fine every time I’ve run it.
With that said, i have yet to actually drive the car. Still need to wrap up burping the cooling system, and at this point i might as well just wait for my MM endlinks to come in and throw those on as well.
I seem to get a small amount of oil drip near the rear of the oil pan / rear main seal area (need to look more closely at it) after it just idles in my garage. Maybe because its just idling while up on ramps its worse than if it was level, i dont know. For those who have followed along and taken note of the types of questions i've asked, do you think with mechanical skill levels i could replace the oil pan gasket with the single piece gasket? I need to lift the engine anyways to do the motor mounts. I've heard its doable, but also not easy.
I also notice a drop hanging off my power steering hoses, so assuming i will need to replace the pressure/return hoses for the power steering. Probably needs a full flush anyways. Pump seems good though.
I seem to get a small amount of oil drip near the rear of the oil pan / rear main seal area (need to look more closely at it) after it just idles in my garage. Maybe because its just idling while up on ramps its worse than if it was level, i dont know. For those who have followed along and taken note of the types of questions i've asked, do you think with mechanical skill levels i could replace the oil pan gasket with the single piece gasket? I need to lift the engine anyways to do the motor mounts. I've heard its doable, but also not easy.
I also notice a drop hanging off my power steering hoses, so assuming i will need to replace the pressure/return hoses for the power steering. Probably needs a full flush anyways. Pump seems good though.
It would be silly to change the mounts and [not] swap that pan gasket at the same time.
Most of hard stuff is done with the motor suspended. You just have to draw a line ahead of time to limit scope creep.
Most of hard stuff is done with the motor suspended. You just have to draw a line ahead of time to limit scope creep.
Ok, i think i have the cooling system 'burped' as well as i'm gonna get it. Let it idle for like 30 minutes today increasing RPMs periodically. No more bubbles were coming out.
While i had it idling, i figured, lets just try to run some KOER tests (i still have KOEO code 67 present so i figured it wouldn't work). Well, i got these three codes with the engine running:
21 R - Cooling Temperature Sensor out of specified range or ECT out of range - I have a replacement ECT i could pop in but there is like a large metal coupler on top of it?
34 R - EGR valve not opening properly - this one is weird because i used to have code 34 on KOEO and i replaced the valve and sensor and that code went away, maybe my EGR spacer is clogged up?
44 R - Thermactor air system fault - no idea, will have to research
I tried running the KOER test again just to double check, but it wouldn't run a second time.
I recently replaced my Coolant Temp sending unit sensor, my temp gauge (as non accurate as it is) NEVER gets past like the "A" or "L" on the NORMAL, even with the old sensor. I always thought that was weird, but maybe something is going on with my cooling system.
While i had it idling, i figured, lets just try to run some KOER tests (i still have KOEO code 67 present so i figured it wouldn't work). Well, i got these three codes with the engine running:
21 R - Cooling Temperature Sensor out of specified range or ECT out of range - I have a replacement ECT i could pop in but there is like a large metal coupler on top of it?
34 R - EGR valve not opening properly - this one is weird because i used to have code 34 on KOEO and i replaced the valve and sensor and that code went away, maybe my EGR spacer is clogged up?
44 R - Thermactor air system fault - no idea, will have to research
I tried running the KOER test again just to double check, but it wouldn't run a second time.
I recently replaced my Coolant Temp sending unit sensor, my temp gauge (as non accurate as it is) NEVER gets past like the "A" or "L" on the NORMAL, even with the old sensor. I always thought that was weird, but maybe something is going on with my cooling system.
Good news is, i just reran the KOER tests, same codes, but then did the cylinder balance test and got code 90, which is good.
I'm wondering if the code 44 is due to a blockage in the hose going to the rear of the heads. Just been doing a little research and that seems like a common issue.
I'm wondering if the code 44 is due to a blockage in the hose going to the rear of the heads. Just been doing a little research and that seems like a common issue.
Damnit, after just finishing filling and burping the coolant, looks like i'll have to drain some to replace this sensor. My dumbass was also looking at the wrong sensor, this one seems easy to replace besides redoing the coolant side of the job.
Kind of makes sense i'm getting the code, the PO gave me a box of misc parts with the sale and one of the parts was a ECT sensor. I bet he knew it was bad. What a jerk.
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Got the ECT sensor replaced. Kind of a pain in the butt getting a wrench on if you don’t have a big enough deep socket. Had to disconnect battery, drain some coolant, and disconnect IAC sensor and I only had a crescent wrench that would fit so just little by little flipping the wrench each small turn.
Started planning out my gauge installation last night. My A-pillar Autometer mount should be arriving today. I took out the boost gauge last night and got the vacuum line hooked up to the gauge side. That will just "T" off the B/R port on the vacuum tree where the FMU vacuum line connects to (I believe?). For the gauge light power/ground and gauge power/ground, what are some good power sources to tap into and good places to place the grounds? I was going to just tie the lightbulb ground and gauge ground into one single ground with a ring terminal, if thats not a bad thing to do.
I haven't opened up the wideband box yet, but assuming it also needs a light power/ground and gauge power/ground. Can i tie together both gauges light power wires, gauge power wires together and then ground wires together so i just need to splice into one light power source, one gauge power source (instead of having multiple splices into the OEM harness) and then ground them all together at one location?
Sorry, electrical is not my strong suit.
Edit: #1 after reading some Boost gauge install instructions that i could find online (not the Autometer instructions), it looks like i don't need to hook up any gauge power/ground wires. Should just be the light source power/ground and the vacuum line?
Someone also seem to use an add-a-fuse in the fuse panel for the lightbulb power source. They mentioned fuse port #37, but it looked they were installing it on a SN95, not a Fox. An add-a-fuse seems like an easier option.
Edit #2: ok it looks like i should be able to add-a-fuse to #4 fuse port on the fuse panel, just need to make sure the fuse can handle more than 15amps. I should note that i don't plan on driving the car at night, but would like the connections there just in case.
This is where i'm at currently:
I haven't opened up the wideband box yet, but assuming it also needs a light power/ground and gauge power/ground. Can i tie together both gauges light power wires, gauge power wires together and then ground wires together so i just need to splice into one light power source, one gauge power source (instead of having multiple splices into the OEM harness) and then ground them all together at one location?
Sorry, electrical is not my strong suit.
Edit: #1 after reading some Boost gauge install instructions that i could find online (not the Autometer instructions), it looks like i don't need to hook up any gauge power/ground wires. Should just be the light source power/ground and the vacuum line?
Someone also seem to use an add-a-fuse in the fuse panel for the lightbulb power source. They mentioned fuse port #37, but it looked they were installing it on a SN95, not a Fox. An add-a-fuse seems like an easier option.
Edit #2: ok it looks like i should be able to add-a-fuse to #4 fuse port on the fuse panel, just need to make sure the fuse can handle more than 15amps. I should note that i don't plan on driving the car at night, but would like the connections there just in case.
This is where i'm at currently:
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Got this far with the gauges:
My plan is to run everything from here out and cut to length (with wiggle room). I really don’t like the idea of drilling extra holes in my A-pillar, but I don’t see how I couldn’t just to run the wires, let alone stick the gauge pod to it. When smooshed together there isn’t anywhere for the gauge wiring to go, like I’ll have to cut a big hole at the bottom of the A-pillar piece (as far as I can tell), plus the holes for the push pins to hold the gauge pod on. That or double sided tape, but that doesn’t solve how the wires will exit the A-pillar ‘assembly’.
Also, as I mentioned I suck at electrical work, wtf is this:
There were no instructions provided with the AFR gauge. I’ll research online but I was kind of only expecting a white and black wire (power and ground) and a lighting wire. There’s 7 wires!
My plan is to run everything from here out and cut to length (with wiggle room). I really don’t like the idea of drilling extra holes in my A-pillar, but I don’t see how I couldn’t just to run the wires, let alone stick the gauge pod to it. When smooshed together there isn’t anywhere for the gauge wiring to go, like I’ll have to cut a big hole at the bottom of the A-pillar piece (as far as I can tell), plus the holes for the push pins to hold the gauge pod on. That or double sided tape, but that doesn’t solve how the wires will exit the A-pillar ‘assembly’.
Also, as I mentioned I suck at electrical work, wtf is this:
There were no instructions provided with the AFR gauge. I’ll research online but I was kind of only expecting a white and black wire (power and ground) and a lighting wire. There’s 7 wires!
Ok from this diagram I believe I only need the red and black wires (switched power and ground). Everything else seems optional for additional capabilities:
Much more palatable.
Much more palatable.
@nicholase hate to bug you specifically but I also am using the full auto meter a pillar dual gauge pod, how did you run your wiring just out of the a pillar assembly? You seem like someone who wouldn’t normally drill through OEM trim pieces if not required, but I can’t see how I can get the wiring out of the a pillar assembly without drilling a pretty big hole at the bottom-ish area of the OEM pillar trim piece. Just curious if you were able to do it without any drilling.
^ I bought a set of reproductions. Then drilled it out. I mounted the pillar, then set the empty autometer pod over it. I marked the locations with a silver sharpie then removed both pillars. I drilled them out with a hole saw. Maybe 1½ or 2".
Looking at some of the stuff you posted it looks like your boost guage has a vacuum line attached to it? If that's the case you'll need all the room you can get behind it to not kink it. Most have a sender that mounts in the engine bay and them you run wires from it to the guage.
The fun starts when you mount the guage pod and try to put the speaker grille back in. Lol
Looking at some of the stuff you posted it looks like your boost guage has a vacuum line attached to it? If that's the case you'll need all the room you can get behind it to not kink it. Most have a sender that mounts in the engine bay and them you run wires from it to the guage.
The fun starts when you mount the guage pod and try to put the speaker grille back in. Lol
I’m at that stage right now. So I did have to trim the OEM piece, and am in the process of finding the right amount of trim on the gauge pod. I’ve trimmed down at the veeeery bottom flap on both OEM piece and the auto meter piece, so the wires run through a small ‘channel’ at the bottom. When I say bottom I mean like the part of the a pillar that tucks under the speaker, so ideally it won’t be seen anyways.
Anyways, my dumb butt put the a-pillar and auto meter ‘assembly’ on, then I sat there looking at the missing speaker grill, and was like nope that’s not gonna work. I had to stop but I got as far as getting the auto meter pillar off, was gonna try getting the speaker grill on, then put the auto meter part back on. Just sucks every time I move the auto meter part I have to pull/fish the wires a little here, a little there just to move it. Glad I nylon wrapped my wires but I’d rather not keep pushing/pulling on the wires as much as possible.
I also broke one of the tabs that holds the trim piece above the door frame. That sucks hopefully they make replacements.
Only got as far as getting the gauges ‘in’. Haven’t ran any lines except to down by the kick panel. Gave up on trying to get the speaker bezel in, can’t tell for sure but I think the easiest way will be to remove the cluster. So that’ll happen next time I remove the cluster (actually do need to fix something inside of it at some point). I feel like it’s somewhat half ass’d at this point, something I’ll have to revisit and button up properly.
Anywho, here’s how they look:
Oh and if anyone knows the name of the interior metal trim piece up above the door, I need new clips for that as I broke one popping it off. Couldn’t find it, yet.
Anywho, here’s how they look:
Oh and if anyone knows the name of the interior metal trim piece up above the door, I need new clips for that as I broke one popping it off. Couldn’t find it, yet.
