New Owner: Very Clean 1991 GT Convertible. All original with 21k original Miles. How to make it better?

[gvanginkel403]

Hi Yall

Finally bought my favorite car from my youth - 1991 GT vert 5.0.

The car is an oxford white with perfect original red stripes on an perfect original white leather interior with red dash and carpet. Un-modified, with 31k original miles on it. new top, lenses, tires, mufflers, brakes, battery. --> all to original design premise.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-ford-mustang-71/

Thing is, its so clean and all original/stock that I don't know if or how to start to make the car better - the way the lightly modded ones were back in the late 90's. I don't want to destroy a clean classic, but also need to make the car a bit better than the natural flaws it had in 1991.

I'm looking for opinions and advice. I have no desire to track or drag the car (its a vert). I just want a semi-regular cruiser and to show my teen kids whats really up from the early 90's. But it needs more fun that the way it is.

Drove the car a few times and it feels and sounds spiritless. I feel it needs less rattle, less shimmy and more exhaust. I want to make no changes to the interior or exterior. Does mechanical and suspension corrections after 34 years pose a value problem for this car?

Unsure how to modify it, to make it match my mental impressions of the 91 GT I drove back in high school.

Thanks Yall.

 

[85GT4V]

Pics or it didn’t happen!

Just my biased opinion but, leave it just like it is and enjoy it!!

 

[gkomo]

1. Since it’s a foxbody, add full length subframe connectors, 2. Because it’s a foxbody convertible, definitely add full length subframe connectors.

Can’t really see them so it won’t change appearance and they are like the #1 needed chassis component.

I would do suspension and chassis upgrades, bushings, etc. to get the car driving nice first.

 

[nickyb]

If keeping it original to preserve its value is more important then enjoying the out of it with your kids then leave it alone.
My two cents= upgrade it with subframe connectors, four wheel disc brakes, engine upgrades, and a stereo.
These cars were built to be driven, so drive it.

 

[General karthief]

IMO the best bang for the buck will be subframe connectors and a 3.55 or 3.73 gears.

 

[gvanginkel403]

heres some pic of what I got

 

[gkomo]

Do you have any sort of budget in mind of what you would even want to spend?

 

[Warhorse Racing]

That is a beautiful car!

When it comes to suspension, you have options. Even though the car has low miles, the rubber bushings are really old. You can find replacement rubber bushings or replacement OEM-style parts with new rubber bushings. That will make the car feel/handle like it did when it was new.

There are also suspension upgrades you can make that won't leave permanent scars. You can install poly or Global West Del-A-Lum A-arm bushings in the factory A-arms. You can replace the rear upper & lower control arms with versions that have 3-piece poly bushings (Steeda or J&M). Adding a stiffer (25mm) rear sway bar will help reduce the factory-installed tendency to understeer. A basic set of adjustable shocks & struts can improve the ride quality and allow you to fine-tune the handling of the car. Lowering the car a little is also an option (just don't go too low or too stiff). Don't forget about the steering rack, front sway bar, strut mount & upper differential housing bushings, too. Looking at the suspension as a whole will give you much better results than just focusing on the front or rear suspension. All of the mods I'm suggesting can be undone relatively easily. With the right basic mods and the correct suspension adjustments, you'll be amazed by how much better the car handles.

 

[gvanginkel403]

Do you have any sort of budget in mind of what you would even want to spend?

I don't plan on getting any thing donw to the body or interior. But otherwise open to ideas. thanks

 

[gvanginkel403]

That is a beautiful car!

When it comes to suspension, you have options. Even though the car has low miles, the rubber bushings are really old. You can find replacement rubber bushings or replacement OEM-style parts with new rubber bushings. That will make the car feel/handle like it did when it was new.

There are also suspension upgrades you can make that won't leave permanent scars. You can install poly or Global West Del-A-Lum A-arm bushings in the factory A-arms. You can replace the rear upper & lower control arms with versions that have 3-piece poly bushings (Steeda or J&M). Adding a stiffer (25mm) rear sway bar will help reduce the factory-installed tendency to understeer. A basic set of adjustable shocks & struts can improve the ride quality and allow you to fine-tune the handling of the car. Lowering the car a little is also an option (just don't go too low or too stiff). Don't forget about the steering rack, front sway bar, strut mount & upper differential housing bushings, too. Looking at the suspension as a whole will give you much better results than just focusing on the front or rear suspension. All of the mods I'm suggesting can be undone relatively easily. With the right basic mods and the correct suspension adjustments, you'll be amazed by how much better the car handles.

Thank you for that detail!! I will research those parts. I think the subframe connectors are a must do from what I have read on these flexi verts, and I definitely need a little more rumble out of the pipes. Do you think based on the pics that just cutting in a louder muffler set would be sufficient since the pipes are new from the cats back or what would you suggest? I want rumble on start and idle, nothing loud or offensive to the occupants or the neighbors.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

I'm glad I could help. I'm also happy to answer any questions you may have about specific suspension parts. Subframe connectors are a good choice. I've been really happy with Stifflers subframe connectors (I use their FIT System on two of my autocross cars). There are a lot of different exhaust options out there. Your idea of too loud might be different than mine. I've never cut in mufflers; I've always used cat-back kits. I can say that the headers, X-pipe and Flowmaster American Thunder kit on my 1992 GT autocross car make it VERY loud.

 

[gkomo]

I’ve cut in mufflers before. They can still sound great. I had a 1998 cobra I had some fairly cheap Pypes mufflers (bombs?) welded in… actually sounded really good.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

Keep all the factory parts (not rubber bushing, etc.) that can be reinstalled if the need ever arises.

 

[gvanginkel403]

Keep all the factory parts (not rubber bushing, etc.) that can be reinstalled if the need ever arises.

That is 100% the plan. nothing that is "permanent" except a welded in SFC set up.

 

[gvanginkel403]

Pics or it didn’t happen!

Just my biased opinion but, leave it just like it is and enjoy it!!

LOL. Pics posted below. Happy to share them with you.
Plan was to more or less leave it alone, but... it needs a bit more rumble and it rides like a stock 34 year old convertible... needs to be firmed up for it to be enjoyable. But the look and the tech, 100% not going to change. and parts will be replaceable (except the SFC weld in).

 

[gvanginkel403]

Do you have any sort of budget in mind of what you would even want to spend?

I mean, I'm open to all ideas, as long it can honor my idea of a stock body and interior and only bolt on parts which can be returned to stock. (Other than SFC weld in). Lets have at it with the ideas and advice! Thanks!

 

[AeroCoupe]

For me I would plan it so that I could put everything back stock and not molest the car.

I would do a full exhaust because that is what makes a Fox 5.0 sound like a Fox 5.0.
If you feel like the 225 hp is anemic then look for either a blower kit or a HCI swap.
Suspension wise I am betting the bushings are cooked just from age so I would be looking to replace the rear UCA's with some stock replacements, replace the bushings in the rear end, some quality rear LCA's (Maximum Motorsports or the like), new bushings in the front LCA's (maybe ball joints), new dampers on all four corners, and some good springs like H&R Super Sports (will lower the car about an inch).
The stock brakes on these cars are not great but you can put some different compound pads on the front and if you like the look change the rear to disc but this will not net you much performance wise over the drums unless you are road racing. If you are not set on keeping it four lug then just move on to the 94-98 SN95 brakes and be done with it.
Last would be a solid 90's style stereo with some bass. Verts are a little more difficult with the top taking up a bunch of room but you can sneak a couple of low profile 10's in the trunk and make it work.

So there not much to change so say a strong weekend...

 

[gkomo]

A blower is a good idea to bump your power without changing out too much stuff. I have a Paxton Novi 1220SL on my completely stock 5.0L engine. It gets up and goes!

All the blower will do is remove your stock intake tract up to the throttle body, so just box that up and store it. It relocates your stock alternator and vapor canister and a few other minor things, but nothing else that can't be undone.

So, if i were you, i would (as other have suggested):

- Gears
- Suspension components/bushings/chassis stiffening
- Low boost blower (like the one i have, or any 'entry level' kit (4-6lbs)
- Any restoration items such as trim pieces, rubber things just to make it look fresh
- Some sort of cat back exhaust to your liking

 

[Noobz347]

My list would be:

Brakes: 4-Lug if you want to keep the OEM wheels, 5-Lug if not.
Full length subframe connectors: Welded
Rear Lower control arms and new OEM uppers

This:

Kenne Bell 2.1L Twin Screw Supercharger

GT40 - Lower intake
Walbro 255L in-tank fuel pump
42+ lb injectors
Lightning MAF
75 or 80 mm Accufab throttle body
Longer A/C lines
Dyno Tune

 

[ustacould]

My list would be:

Brakes: 4-Lug if you want to keep the OEM wheels, 5-Lug if not.
Full length subframe connectors: Welded
Rear Lower control arms and new OEM uppers

This:

Kenne Bell 2.1L Twin Screw Supercharger

GT40 - Lower intake
Walbro 255L in-tank fuel pump
42+ lb injectors
Lightning MAF
75 or 80 mm Accufab throttle body
Longer A/C lines
Dyno Tune

You get a commission on the Kenne Bell ? That pic pops up a lot ....