Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory

[nicholase]

Learning new stuff is always a good goal! I was more talking end goal as in power levels, cam, end goal boost levels, end goal ecu tuning or runnlng w/ the stock ecu and fmu. That sort of stuff.

And what @Noobz347 said regarding the lifters. Soak or no soak. No matter. As long as you prime it. Leave the valve covers off, prime it until oil flows out of all the lifters through the pushrods. Then they are primed and ready for business.

I'm running the FP 302H lifter you have. 1/2 turn zero lash is perfect with those.

 

[gkomo]

Ohh, not concerned with power or boost goals at the moment. Just want a properly running car.

Plan for the foreseeable future is:

- stock 168k bottom end
- TFS heads
- stock cam
- stock intake up to MAF
- PMAS 80mm MAF calibrated for 24lb injectors (or i also have a SN95 70mm MAF for 19lb injectors, leave the FMU alone)
- 24lb injectors
- 8:1 FMU disk setup
- bypass valve on new discharge pipe (not super necessary but i have it so why not run it (in between SMOG checks))

Whatever power that gets me, i'm good with. To me, car pulls pretty good when its running right in my current setup enough to where i'm happy with it for the time being. Will need to figure out how to sneak by SMOG with the PMAS MAF though, or just convert back to the stock setup every 2 years.

I understand some of my parts are mixy-matchy, like the big MAF with small TB, or good heads with stock cam/intake... but it is what it is.

I will probably buy a MOATES Quarterhorse at some point, not for immediate tuning but at least to see whats going on in the engine... then figure out tuning later.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Just me but why not look for a stock short block and build that yourself? Find one that you can run a home through, re-ring it, bearings, new oil pump and timing chain. Bolt all the rest on and good to go. You said you have time so you should be able to find a standard bore or 0.030” over block that will take just a quick home to clean up and your off to a build.

 

[Noobz347]

Since you already have heads, I broke it down into HO and NON-HO. Not that you'd want to re-use a stock cam.


ROLLER 5.0 / 302 ENGINES WITH H.O. / 351W FIRING ORDER
Firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Make Model / Vehicle Years Engine Type Notes
Ford Mustang 5.0 H.O. 1985-1995 5.0 roller cam, H.O. firing order 1985 manual-trans H.O. was carbureted but roller-cam. 1986-1995 EFI H.O. engines use this firing order.
Mercury Capri 5.0 H.O. 1985-1986 5.0 roller cam, H.O. firing order 1985 manual-trans H.O. was carbureted. 1986 EFI Capri 5.0 follows Mustang-style H.O. layout.
Lincoln Mark VII LSC 5.0 H.O. 1986-1992 5.0 roller cam, H.O. firing order Good non-Mustang donor family. Verify accessories/intake differences.
Ford Thunderbird 5.0 H.O. 1991-1993 5.0 roller cam, H.O. firing order MN12 Thunderbird 5.0 H.O.
Mercury Cougar 5.0 H.O. 1991-1993 5.0 roller cam, H.O. firing order MN12 Cougar 5.0 H.O.
Ford F-150 / F-250 light-duty 5.0 1994-1996 5.0 roller cam, H.O./351W firing order Truck 5.0, not “Mustang H.O.” output, but uses the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 cam/firing order.
Ford Bronco 5.0 1994-1996 5.0 roller cam, H.O./351W firing order Same basic late truck 5.0 family.
Ford E-Series / Econoline 5.0 1994-1996 5.0 roller cam, H.O./351W firing order Late van 5.0 roller family. Verify donor because vans can be mixed-use/fleet oddballs.
Ford Explorer 5.0 1996-2001 5.0 roller cam, H.O./351W firing order Excellent donor. GT40 heads early, GT40P heads later. Distributorless Explorer-specific front dress/intake/accessory differences.
Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 1997-2001 5.0 roller cam, H.O./351W firing order Explorer sibling. Same general 5.0 roller/GT40/GT40P donor family.

------------------------

ROLLER 5.0 / 302 ENGINES WITH NON-H.O. / STANDARD 302 FIRING ORDER
Firing order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Make Model / Vehicle Years Engine Type Notes
Ford LTD Crown Victoria 5.0 1986-1991 5.0 roller cam, standard 302 firing order Panther-platform non-H.O. roller 5.0. Not a Mustang H.O. cam/firing-order engine.
Mercury Grand Marquis 5.0 1986-1991 5.0 roller cam, standard 302 firing order Panther-platform non-H.O. roller 5.0. Uses smaller/non-H.O. supporting parts.
Lincoln Town Car 5.0 1986-1990 5.0 roller cam, standard 302 firing order Last 5.0 Town Car years before the 4.6 modular. Non-H.O. roller 5.0.
Ford F-Series truck 5.0 Approx. 1992-1993 5.0 roller cam, standard 302 firing order Transition-era truck roller 5.0. Verify before buying; trucks are where year/application confusion happens.
Ford Bronco 5.0 Approx. 1992-1993 5.0 roller cam, standard 302 firing order Transition-era truck roller 5.0. Verify actual cam/firing order.
Ford E-Series / Econoline 5.0 Approx. 1992-1993 5.0 roller cam, standard 302 firing order Transition-era van 5.0. Verify donor carefully, especially fleet vehicles.


Best donor shorthand:
1986-1995 Mustang 5.0 H.O., 1986-1992 Mark VII LSC, 1991-1993 Thunderbird/Cougar 5.0 H.O., 1994-1996 F-series/Bronco/E-series 5.0, and 1996-2001 Explorer / 1997-2001 Mountaineer 5.0 are the common factory roller 5.0 donors that already use the H.O. / 351W firing order.

Be careful with 1986-1991 Panther cars and early-1990s trucks/vans. Many are roller 5.0 engines, but they may use the old 302 firing order.

 

[gkomo]

You guys are ambitious! I think an engine swap is not only out of my skill wheelhouse, but out of my physical capabilities based on garage space constraints.

 

[AeroCoupe]

You can buy the motor and tear it down in your garage in a day. Punt all the parts you do not need and then hone the cylinders. Take all the parts you are keeping to a machine shop and have them vat them for you. Bring the parts home, assemble the short block and put a new oil pan on it. Paint said short block, install heads and (wait for it) the Explorer upper and lower you got with the motor. Bag that thing up wait for a weekend without rain. Pull your hooptie into you tiny tiny garage, remove your existing motor, remove all the parts you need for the newish motor, install parts, reinstall motor, and drink a cold beer.

I would also grab a new timing chain cover, water pump, and thermostat housing so that when you assemble the short block all of this can be put on it and the RTV has time to completely cure before coolant hits it.

I have literally helped a buddy do all of this in about 12 hours because of a nitrous backfire and he was racing the next day. We had more room but if you already have the newish motor 80% built you can do it by yourself in a weekend.

I do get it but think of all the $$$ you will save and the pure satisfaction when it fires up. Hell, have the machine shop put the short block together and take it from there. Way cheaper than $3K if all you are doing is having them clean it up, hone it, and install all of your parts.

 

[gkomo]

Something to consider I suppose. Will need to see how things look once we are back in the house and settled.

Only thing that gets my juices flowing with this idea is I can keep the car running and driving up until the time I’d be able to swap engines. Just seems so daunting for someone who’s never done it.

Where does one even buy an engine if you have to do it online? Can it be delivered? I don’t have time to be going to a junkyard or any of that.

 

[nicholase]

You guys are ambitious! I think an engine swap is not only out of my skill wheelhouse, but out of my physical capabilities based on garage space constraints.

There's always a way. I agree on putting a motor together then doing the swap. There wouldn't be anything worse than doing what you intend to do and possibly still have a short block issues, only to have to pull the engine anyway.

When it's time for the swap just pull your car in the garage and get it as close as possible for the engine to come out. Then push it out a little ways with the ass end hanging out of the garage to get room. Wheel chock it if the driveway is steep. Pull the engine. Put the new one in. Then push it back in the garage and finish it up.

While you have the down time I'd suggest doing a triage list. Write down all the issues starting with the worst, like the oil fouled cylinder, the miss firing at higher RPM, and so on. Also your plan and budget for the foreseeable future to make sure it's all going to jive. Sometimes the most productive things happen when you aren't actually turning wrenches.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I would use this website to locate potential sources and then call them to see if they deliver or will at least load the motor for you. If they will load it then rent a Home Depot truck or something like that for a day and go get it.

https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Get the motor with the hole for the EGR being you are in the communist state.

 

[DadLife0724]

Something to consider I suppose. Will need to see how things look once we are back in the house and settled.

Only thing that gets my juices flowing with this idea is I can keep the car running and driving up until the time I’d be able to swap engines. Just seems so daunting for someone who’s never done it.

Where does one even buy an engine if you have to do it online? Can it be delivered? I don’t have time to be going to a junkyard or any of that.

Just dive in man. You never know, you could end up being the best builder on your block. You will get it. I can't wait for my versatube garage next summer. My first project is a new 6.8 for my excursion. Never rebuilt and engine myself. Just gotta grab it by the gonads and show it who's boss.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Just me but I would let the machine shop assemble the short block. Will save time and they will get the thrust set up correctly. Give them the assembled stock short block and let them know your goal is to just hone it and put new rings on the existing pistons. They will work with you and hopefully you can do the short block for cheap and then assemble the rest yourself as time allows. And don’t forget to replace the harmonic balancer if you have not already.

Great thing about this is you save the original motor and if you want to build a nice 306, 331, or 347 you already have a block.

 

[gkomo]

Thanks to @Noobz347 and others for recommending this. I’m sure I’ll put it to use in the future.

 

[Noobz347]

I like those the most because it gives you a heads up as to where Connector X and Ground Y are physically located.

 

[gkomo]

Slowly but surely



We decided to rip out our landscaping and start over. Next week we have a flooring meeting and the electrical walkthrough.

Another change order for more plumbing/old crusty cast iron piping that was almost completely clogged with rust to be replaced. I believe every pipe in the house will now be replaced.

 

[91AOD5.0LX]

StangNet party when that bad boy is competed!

 

[gkomo]

Put that rooftop deck to use!

Ain’t no party like a stangnet party!

 

[gkomo]

Asked ChatGPT to "modernize" my car with parts i could actually purchase, and change the color to a red that is brighter with a slight orange hue to it. I think it actually came up with something pretty decent. Maybe slightly too orange, but it says its Ford Performance Red.