Check the ring gap with the ring square in the bore near the top - since the bore will be biggest near the top (if you didn't just have the cylinder bored out - in which case it should all be the same diameter).
Use the piston itself to get the ring square in the bore by loading the ring...
Here's what I cut out of the left side - The torque box, a chunk of the inner rocker, a chunk of the frame extension and a piece of the front frame where it fits inside the rear extension.
I got some .07" and .10" sheet stock that I'll cut, form and weld in. I'm going to weld in a 3/16" x...
Here's a picture of my left side torque box - after I took off the piece of thin sheetmetal the PO had tack welded over the rust.
There is no upper panel on the original torque box and as you can see, the bottom is pretty much gone too - as is some of the frame rail. I bought the torque...
2+2,
Thanks for the reply.
As for jack stand placement. I was thinking that since all the wheels are on blocks that I could just support the frame I am working on. One just forward and rearward of where I am cutting and then one at the front of the forward frame rail and one at the rear of...
Front Torque Box Replacement
Greetings,
Long story short, PO patched the front torque boxes by poorly spot welding panels over the torque boxes. I removed the patches yesterday and was pretty shocked.
The left one's bottom plate is pretty much gone. I can see the replacement toe board up...
Thanks for the replies. I stopped at the local paint supply store and picked up a tube of 3M seam sealer. I think one tube will do it.
As for the weld through primer, I went to my local welding supply store (AirGas I think) and they didn't have it but said they could get it... Instead of...
Greetings,
I'm replacing the rear left footwell in my car and I'm getting to the point where I need to seal the seam between the welded panels. I have a couple tubes of 50 yr black silicone caulk that I was thinking about using to seal the joints but was wondering if there was a compelling...
I got a Lincoln MIG 175 off ebay a few years back and I have done enough money saving and repair projects with it that it has easily paid for itself.
Just look at it this way - how much would it cost to pay someone to do the floor for you? If the welder is less than that - or if you will use...
I'm replacing my rear footwell after the previous owner patched it (poorly) and I can't tell if the original one was welded between the torque box or on top of it.
If i had to guess I'd say it goes over the top because I can see a step in the seat floor sheet metal where it appears the footwell...
I finally got all the interior out and see that it's not as bad as I thought. It appears that the person that worked on it before DID use the proper replacement panels - everywhere except the rear left foot well. They replaced the front footwells and toe boards. The rear right footwell is...
So far I've just been assessing what it needs. It looks like flat patches were put in the toe board forward of the front floor pan, along with the front and rear floor pan and perhaps the tunnel. It's quite a 'quilt' under there.
I'm tempted to do the whole floor. I know at least one of...
You know what - after I posted my thread I had the exact same thought... The light finally came on! :rlaugh:
The floor appears to be a patchwork of flat stock shaped and welded from the inside to make the floor waterproof. For me to 'piecemeal the floor is going to take forever. I'm...
Greetings,
I've finally gotten comfortable with my MIG welder to take on the challenge of cleaning up/correcting some of the poor quality floor patches that were put on my car but I'm not sure what type or gauge steel to use.
I have just started this project and this is the first area I've...
Yea, those Maier ones are better than what I got.
It appears that the ones I have butt up against the end of the front frame rail and then attach to the rear rail about even with the front spring attachment... I'm thinking I need to cut the cap off the rear of the front rail and then put in...
Thanks for all the replies.
My doors seem to line up pretty well and I did add upgraded export bars and a monte carlo bar to my car.
2+2GT, Your comments are well taken. I realize that torsional forces in the body are probably what is tearing up the paint and that if I want to stop...
I am getting ready to weld on a set of subframe connectors on my '69 Fastback and I've read that the car has to be sitting on the wheels, axle or lower control arms to keep from flexing the body.
My car has small cracks in the paint at the top of the A-Pillar and on the rear valence panel...
If you're fuel injected you need them.
They provide feedback to the computer which it uses to adjust fuel flow (mixture)... without them - frankly, I'm surprised it runs.:jaw:
If you're running a carb, no, you don't need them.
The tubular ones are the Global West pieces. I'm not exactly sure where they attach but I am sure that you can only weld them at their front and rear attachment plates.
The square ones are from Chassis Engineering. They are pretty much sight unseen since their website doesn't show them...
OK, I'm trying to chose between the following two subframe constructions:
1. 1.625" O.D. round tube, .125" (1/8") wall thickness (I.D. 1.375")
or
2. 2" square tube, .083 wall thickness
Which will be more beneficial to my Mustang?
Thanks!