I am planning a 347 build and need advice from Edelbrock users on head selection. On the Summit website is EDL-60259 the correct non-smog performer RPM head for a 347 application? If not please offer advice from your experience. It will be a semi-daily driver with a safe tune, not a race car so...
That car (the one in the 1st post) belongs to Blacks automotive group in Longwood Fl (just north of Orlando). They bring it the Ford and Mustang show at Silver Springs every Janurary, its awesome. You can see it at Blacksautomotivegroup.com. They specialize in all kick-ass mustangs. They had two...
I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel, made three cuts longways (relative to the pipe) 120 degrees apart which released the clamps compression onto the inner pipe, twisted and realigned, reinstalled clamps. Worked perfect for me.
vann
"NOT TECH", not tech either, just a cheap post incrementer, sounds like the help he'd get at hardcore50
Mod's - please reduce my post count by 1, this shouldn't count.
Sorry "the Beast" owner, the guy just wants some help, guess i need more coffee.
I agree with all above. That's how I did it when I put in my bilsteins. Not to be an ass but you do know to support the a-arm from below so the spring doesn't launch right? Good luck, just hope your not puttin in the cheap kyb's.
fox
Does anybody have experience with both? Shox.com has Bilsteins for $469 for all four, and the Tokicos for $559 for all four. Currently I have frpp "b" springs with all poly isolators and worn-out kyb's that ride like a solid rock. I want a controlled, semi-comfortable ride for a daily driver...
Can somebody please explain the alignment marks and proper alignment of them when installing a flywheel, pressure plate and drive shaft? I would guess that you attempt to match them as closely as possible. I have a FRPP flywheel, King Cobra pressure-plate/clutch and FRPP aluminum drive shaft...
Motor mounts are a possibility but I'd expect the motor to deflect (maybe the fan would hit the shroud) pulling from 1200-4000 rpm but it pulls strong and smooth thru that range. It will probably come apart tomorrow. Any other suggestions? Back to the original question, is it ok to start it...
Recently did the aod to t5 swap using a new t5, king cobra kit and a cat billet 50 in/oz flywheel. I now have a quite severe vibration at 1000-1400 and again above 4200 rpm (vibes the same either moving or siting still in neutral). I've put about 50 miles on it witout much change. I know the...
Thanks JR, I bought the King Cobra kit from D & D with no instructions. I have it working now, had to tighten the adjustable nuts on the steeda cable all the way tight. I put about 15 miles on it but need to get the adjustable cross-memner welded tomorrow, Then I'll tweek the firewall adjuster...
Looking in thru the fork cover, the t-out bearing is against the PP fingers without touching the clutch pedal. What will it act like if the cable is too tight? I do have a copy of the 50stangs tech article on clutch adjustment as a reference but it's still kicking my ass.
vann
The T5 shifts like it should with the engine off. I'm going to pull the fork cover and attempt to verify the throwout bearing is working correctly. If I have the cable too tight won't it shift easily but not fully engage when the pedal is released?
vann
Hey guys,
The swap is done, the car starts but won't shift into gear. Only when pulled towards reverse will it staret to engage (grind). I have a billet flywheel, king cobra clutch kit (used alighment tool), steeda double hook/firewall adjuster/cable/tri-ax, and new WC t-5 (red line fluid)...